We booked Petra by night ticket on the day of our arrival for the next day (Monday). The ticket was 17 JOD per person, given you have your Petra daytime ticket already. Beware it is only few days a week: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday as I have mentioned it in the guide. So if you are visiting only on the weekend – you are going to miss it.
We had a short rest in the hotel after our hike to Treasury viewpoint earlier today. Just before heading out we had a buffet dinner in the hotel’s restaurant, which was around 17 JOD each. We arrived to Petra Visitor Centre way too early at 7:00 pm. We were told to arrive at 8:00 pm, but we were hoping to be in front of the queue so we can get a better seat later on. However, the queue doesn’t really exist for this event, so you may as well just arrive right before the start. At 8:10 pm local guide arrived and gave few instructions on how to walk there following candle light, not to use torches and how to reach treasury, where a worker will guide you to the seat. At 8:15 pm after showing our ticket at the entrance we were on the way to Treasury.
The air was still, but it still it was quite cool in the evening. I was wearing a jacket. We started our walk towards the Siq. The gravel path crunched softly beneath my boots, the only sound besides the gentle whisper of the desert breeze. We could see the shadows of the people in front and hear some voices behind us. Towering rock formations loomed on either side, their weathered surfaces hinting at centuries of history etched into the stone. Along the way, we passed several ancient “god stones” (also known as Djinn Blocks), simple yet powerful carvings that spoke of the Nabataeans’ deep connection to their landscape and their beliefs.
These silent sentinels stood watch over the path, their presence adding a layer of reverence to the approaching darkness. It was only another 25min walk or so to the Treasury. We were overtaking people as we went, so that no one was in front of our camera, when we stopped for a moment to take a picture and we had to be fast about it. However, sometimes it took 5 seconds with a longer exposure to capture the night views.
Just before entering Siq I could feel a strong smell of frankincense and myrrh incense from one of the Bedouin shops. It was a very pleasant smell, reminding me the times me and my parents visited Catholic church in my childhood on Sundays.
As we walked further, our footsteps echoed softly in the Siq. I could see the towering sandstone walls, usually bathed in sunlight, were now illuminated by the gentle flicker of hundreds of candles lining the path. Dancing shadows played across the ancient rock, creating an atmosphere of mystery and wonder. The air was cool and still, carrying the subtle scent of beeswax from the many flames.
At some point the asphalt ended and cobblestones started. Few times I stepped into a gap between stones and slipped. Luckily I didn’t fall or twist my ankle.
Rounding a bend, the majestic Treasury, Al-Khazneh, suddenly appeared through a narrow gap of the Siq.
Bathed in the warm glow of countless candles, its intricate facade was breathtaking. The delicate carvings and towering columns seemed to shimmer in the light, revealing details often missed during the day. It was 8:39 pm.
We hoped that somebody will greet as when we arrived, but after waiting for few moments we decided to just head to the front and take a seat. After stepping on few carpets, we’ve noticed that under our feet they put the carpets, just in between he candles, for people to sit down. The carpets filled up quite quickly and people were sitting on the chairs behind and some even standing in the back. Annoyingly as more and more people gathered, more light flashes and torches were visible despite of our guide requesting not to use them, so that people would enjoy that magical candle light.
Around 9:00 pm the guide introduced the first musician, who played the Bedouin music on his flute Suddenly the silence of the Siq gave way to the soft, enchanting sounds coming from his flute as if he was enchanting a rattlesnake and combined with an breath taking view of Treasury I was completely captivated by it. Sitting in front of the candlelit Treasury, listening to the music echoing off the ancient stone, felt like stepping into another time. Especially when they started to play with rababa (the Bedouin string, guitar like, instrument). The flickering light, the monumental architecture, and the evocative music created an experience that was both deeply personal and profoundly moving.
At 21:12 pm they lit the colourful lamps to light up the Treasury. To be hones one natural light would have been sufficient or a flickering flame effect, but every few seconds rotating different colours were a bit tacky and felt out of place. The one below with almost natural light, looked the best in my opinion.
The show was finished at 9:30 pm and we were heading to our hotel. My legs were so tired from the hike today to the Treasury view point. I would have gladly accepted a ride to hotel even for 10 JOD.
As we left the treasury I turned back to see one more time through he gap of the Siq. I could see even more details of the reliefs.
Annoyingly, a lot of people walking back were using torches, so we could not take more pictures as it was very visible. Also, the eye pupils would suddenly contract and you couldn’t see anything in the dark anymore, when people passed by. So if you are visiting, don’t use torches even on the way back and enjoy the candle light as it is the thing you came for in the first place.
Somehow I could see better uneven road now as when walking to the show those Cobblestones were not visible at all.
Finally we left the Siq, crossed the bridge over the canal and only 5-7 min gravel road was left until Petra Visitor Centre.
At 22:20 we were at the exit. So all the stops to take photos was around an extra 10 minutes. I was so tired.
I did try to film walking that candlelight, but unfortunately none of my camera was sensitive enough to capture it in that darkness. You have to experience it by yourself.
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