We left hotel in Petra at 7 am to arrive at Wadi Rum visitor centre at 9:30 am so we are ready to start our tour at 10:00 am. As we were driving through the Sharah Mountains away from Petra, the breathtaking landscape forced us to pull the car over to the side of the road to take it all in. Stepping out into the crisp air, I gazed across the vast, rugged expanses that protected the ancient Nabataean civilization for centuries. Rising high above the valley floor, the towering sandstone ridges and deeply carved canyons stretched out beneath a dramatic sky, where morning clouds drifted lazily over the sun-drenched peaks. We stopped to take some photos. I’ve noticed heavy clouds over the mountains as if it was about to rain.
Table of Contents
At some point the fog started getting really thick as if we were in the cloud. We probably were as we went up quite high. We could see up front only couple hundred meters. However, as we went further it cleared up and only wastelands were surrounding us. Not real deserts, but with not much vegetation and houses very apart from each other and some very lonely trees. The most stunning view was several Nubian Ibexes (Capra nubiana) standing on top of the rock. The picture came out blurry, but AI managed to sharpen it.
Wadi Rum Village & Visitor Centre
Once we arrived to Wadi Rum visitor centre at 9:34 am, the officer inspected our passports and we had to pay 7 JOD each per adult. We did not have to pay a vehicle fee since we were just dropping our car in a tour company’s parking lot inside the reserve. Anyway, our car wouldn’t have handled all that sand and you need a proper 4×4 car, which costs extra if you plan to drive that in the desert yourself (20 JOD to 35 JOD per day). By the way, the Wadi Rum visitor centre accepts only cash!
Once we’ve paid we were free to go inside the reserve and we quite easily found our tour provider house.
We booked our tour directly from the agency below, but you can as well use GetYourGuide to book tours from the same agency. More tours on my post about Jordan tips, including Wadi Rum.
Passing through Wadi Rum village felt remarkably surreal as the streets were entirely quiet and deserted. The uniform tan and reddish-brown paint of the modest stone houses blended almost seamlessly into the vast expanses of matching sand, creating an overwhelming impression of a dusty, windblown outpost frozen in time.
The complete absence of bustling crowds or heavy traffic gave the entire settlement a quiet, ghost-like atmosphere. Sunlight beat down upon the unpaved alleys, casting long shadows across the faded facades and accentuating the dry, rugged environment. Consequently, moving through the quiet streets served as a striking transition point, marking the threshold where human habitation gives way to the vast, untouched expanse of the open desert.
Once we arrived to the tour camp, the host greeted us in white thobe (traditional clothes) and white ghutra (traditional head covering). The man showed us where to park and got us into the 4×4 vehicle. We had a busy day itinerary to visit many places in Wadi Rum.
Lawrence’s Spring
The first stop was Lawrence’s Spring (Ain Abu Aineh). I thought it will be a trickling down water from a hill, but instead it was a just a pile of large rocks.
As we began scrambling up the hillside towards Lawrence’s Spring, we quickly realised that the path was far steeper and more treacherous than it looked from below. Loose rocks slipped beneath my boots, and reaching the top required a proper, hands-on climb over near-vertical sandstone boulders that left me completely out of breath. I did bumped my camera hanging on my neck couple times to the rocks. Luckily it didn’t get too much damaged.
However, catching my breath beneath the solitary wild fig tree at the summit made every difficult step worthwhile. Tucked high above the desert floor, this hidden freshwater oasis carries a famous local legend that Thomas Edward Lawrence (a British archaeologist, diplomat, and military officer, who is most famous for acting as a liaison during World War I) himself bathed here and watered his horses during the Arab Revolt of 1917, an experience he later immortalised in Seven Pillars of Wisdom.
Additionally, local Bedouin lore speaks of the spring as a sacred, blessed sanctuary, whispering tales of ancient spirits that guarded its pure waters against those who wished to pollute it. Long before Lawrence ever set foot here, this precious trickle of life served as a vital lifeline for Nabataean merchants and ancient camel caravans negotiating the harsh desert trade routes thousands of years ago.
A bit further from the Lawrence’s Spring, climbing over the fig tree, there was a stunning view of Wadi Rum. Truly stunning! Everyone stopped to take pictures (as you can see in one of the photos below). I could see our car and cars coming and going as well as some people riding camels coming to Lawrence’s Spring. The photos below are without any alterations or filters! Don’t believe me? Go see it for yourself!
If you think going up was difficult? Try going down! I found it even more difficult as the steep path was even more slippery going down and put a lot of pressure on the knees. So good shoes is a must here and I was lucky to wear my hiking shoes!
Where is water, there is always life! I spotted this fast running pitted darkling beetle (Adesmia cancellata) among the stones. It was moving so fast that it was difficult to focus my camera in time. Members of the Adesmia genus possess long legs that keep their bodies elevated off the scorching sand, allowing them to move surprisingly fast across the desert floor. They are also known as desert cleaner as they play a vital role in the desert ecosystem as scavengers, feeding on organic debris, plant matter, and dry animal dung (like the pellet seen right next to it in the picture below).
As we were preparing to head back to our vehicle, I happened to spot the ancient Inscriptions Rock standing right at the base of the trail. Furthermore, taking a closer look at the boulder just before leaving allowed us to examine the ancient Thamudic and Nabataean markings etched into its face. Rather than monumental declarations, these centuries-old graffiti turned out to be the personal signatures of early desert travellers and nomads, typically reading with simple greetings, personal names, or traditional blessings like “May [Name] be remembered” alongside carved symbols of camels and livestock. Discovering those ancient personal messages left by travellers resting near the spring provided a wonderfully memorable farewell to Lawrence’s Spring.
Cup of Tea and Bedouin Souvenirs
After visiting Lawrence’s Spring, we stopped in a traditional Bedouin tent shop to enjoy a hot cup of tea. Meanwhile, our hosts proudly displayed their local produce, showing us fragrant perfumes, hand-crafted soaps, regional tea blends, and traditional souvenirs. Furthermore, purchasing a few items directly from them felt like a meaningful way to support the local desert community. Relaxing in the shade with sweet tea while browsing their collection made for a lovely, authentic break on our trip.
Al Ramal Red Sand Dune
Next we were going to see red sand dunes. In the distance we could see the colourful martian domes, traditional Bedouin tents and couple camels wondering the desert. One even looked our way, as I zoomed in with my camera.
We were approaching a layered sandstone structure (I am going to name it The Layer Cake Rock, since there is no name for that rock in the map, in Arabic Ka’kat as-Sahra’) that served as the natural anchor for the famous Al Ramal Red Sand Dune, known in Arabic as Al-Hasany or Al-Kuthban al-Ramliyyah al-Hamra’. Nestled against the base of the Jebel Umm Ulaydiyya mountain range, this rocky outcrop formed the solid backdrop against which the iron-oxide-tinted sands banked up.
Once we got off from our 4×4 we were walking up the steep red dune, which provided a fantastic leg workout, as my hiking shoes sank continuously into the loose sand and filled up completely, leaving me out of breath completely. Once I reached the top I was able to step onto the stone ledges of the formation itself, which rewarded me with truly breathtaking, panoramic views of the vast desert floor below. Capturing pictures from that elevated ridge was unforgettable, and the peaceful, open atmosphere felt like a perfect spot for a yoga session, but maybe during the sunset as it might be too hot in the scorching sun, or some sort of meditation sessions. Dear Bedouins, this is a business idea for you! People pay big bucks for that kind of sh*t!
Khazali Canyon (Siq al-Khazali) & Jebel Umm Ishrin
After visiting red sand dunes, we made our way to the cool, shaded fissure of Khazali Canyon, which sits alongside the looming cliffs of Jebel Umm Ishrin—a mountain whose Arabic name translates to “Mother of Twenty”. Standing at the narrow opening of the gorge, a solitary, weather-beaten tree grows right in front of the entrance, offering a striking splash of life against the harsh red rock. Stepping past the branches, the sheer, soaring canyon walls provided immediate and welcome relief from the desert heat. Beyond offering natural shade, these ancient walls protected an extraordinary open-air museum filled with hundreds of petroglyphs and historical inscriptions carved into the sandstone over two millennia ago.
Wandering along the canyon floor revealed a fascinating tapestry of rock art left behind by ancient Nabataeans, Thamudic tribes, and early Bedouins. Looking closely at the smooth rock surfaces, we spotted detailed depictions of wild animals including ostriches and ibex, alongside various human figures engaged in hunting and daily life. Furthermore, numerous carvings of camels and caravan processions adorned the stone, serving as a powerful reminder of the vital trade routes that once criss-crossed this harsh environment. Deep within the canyon, intricate footprint carvings etched into the stone captured our attention, as ancient guardians originally carved these symbolic markers to guide long-ago travellers safely through the pass. Similarly, preserved Thamudic and Kufic inscriptions covered the lower rock faces, recording names, prayers, and historical messages from the countless souls who sought shelter in this natural sanctuary throughout the centuries.
Standing close to the entrance, a couple of lonely, dried-out trees braced themselves against the harsh desert environment. Furthermore, their gnarled and leafless branches twisted towards the sky, offering a stark yet striking testament to the relentless heat and dry conditions of the region.
As I ventured deeper into Khazali Canyon, I came across a natural water basin—often called a gully, pothole, or guelta—carved directly into the sandstone floor. Over thousands of years, rare flash floods rushing through the narrow slot canyon eroded these deep, circular stone hollows. Furthermore, because the soaring canyon walls blocked the direct sunlight, any water trapped within these basins remained cool and evaporated at an exceptionally slow rate. These natural pools transformed Khazali Canyon into a vital lifeline for Nabataean merchants, Bedouin herders, and weary desert travellers, which clearly explained why ancient guides carved footprint symbols near the entrance to lead visitors straight to the hidden reservoirs. During my visit, the basin lay completely dry and filled with sand and loose rocks, though it fills up again whenever seasonal rain sweeps across the surrounding mountain massifs.
Carefully passing the first hollow, I squeezed through a tight gap between the rocks and approached a second natural water basin, which featured a high opening at the top where water would flow down during heavy rains. Reaching that second pool marked the very end of the canyon, leaving no further path to explore and I had to turn back to the entrance where the carvings and glyphs are.
Not all messages carved here were textual, as the physical pictorial symbols carried very specific, universally understood meanings for travellers. Footprint carvings are among the most famous navigational symbols in Nabatean rock art. They function as directional signs, translating roughly to “water is here” or “a fresh spring/well is nearby.”
The animal with large, curved horns at the bottom right depicted a Nubian ibex, which represented vital food sources and successful hunting grounds in the desert. Furthermore, in ancient Arabian iconography, the ibex and its crescent-shaped horns was frequently associated with fertility, grace, and pre-Islamic lunar deities.
The ancient writings in Khazali Canyon (Siq al-Khazali) are mostly short graffiti, traveller logs, and personal prayers. Because they were left by various nomadic herders, traders, and pilgrims passing through over thousands of years, they follow several repetitive formulas.
The Nabataean merchants who controlled the desert trade routes left standard “peace” and “remembrance” markers. They almost always include the phrase “Shalam” (Peace) or “Dukhir” (Remembered), followed by the person’s name and their father’s name, translating to phrases like “May [Name], son of [Name], be remembered in peace” or simply “Peace to [Name], son of [Name].”
The early desert nomads, including the Thamudic and Hismaic peoples, used the rock walls like a guestbook to record their presence during the pre-Islamic era. Many of their lines explicitly state who carved the text or dedicate a nearby drawing, such as “By [Name], son of [Name]” or “This camel belongs to [Name],” which was often carved directly next to a petroglyph of a camel. Furthermore, some inscriptions served as dedications to pre-Islamic Arabian deities, reading “Help/Save, O Goddess Allat.”
As Islam spread from the 7th and 8th century AD onwards, Muslim pilgrims travelling through Wadi Rum on their way south to Mecca used the shaded canyon walls to carve early Islamic Kufic prayers. These inscriptions mimicked standard religious phrases, including “In the name of God, Most Gracious, Most Merciful,” “O Allah, forgive [Name],” and “There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is His messenger.”
The rock inscriptions inside Khazali Canyon are not written in a single tongue, but rather represent a timeline of different ancient and medieval languages. The oldest texts belong to the Ancient North Arabian language family, specifically the Hismaic and Thamudic dialects. These were the local, indigenous languages spoken by nomadic desert herders who carved their names and tribal marks using sharp, geometric alphabets. As trade routes expanded, Nabataean Aramaic became prominent. This was a regional dialect used by the merchants of the Nabataean Kingdom, and its distinct cursive-like script is historically significant because it directly evolved into the modern Arabic writing system. Finally, the canyon walls feature Classical Arabic written in Kufic script. This highly stylized, angular form of early Arabic calligraphy was left behind by Muslim traders and pilgrims traveling along historical caravan routes toward Mecca and Medina.
Don’t these animals below remind AT-ATs (All Terrain Armored Transport) from star wars movie? This prehistoric panel on the left depicts a desert hunting scene featuring a herd of ibexes or gazelles, a stick-figure hunter with raised arms, and stylized footprint tracking marks. In the top right corner, a short Thamudic inscription serves as a nomadic signature. This script was carved by ancient herders to record their names, claim the hunting ground, or pray to desert deities for a successful hunt.
This ancient petroglyph panel on the right depicts a camel caravan and domesticated livestock traveling through the desert. On the left, two animals are stacked vertically, with the upper figure showing the distinct long neck and single hump of a dromedary camel. To the right stands a smaller quadruped with a boxy torso and short neck, representing a horse, donkey, or goat. Nabataean merchants and nomadic tribes carved these beasts of burden to document caravan sizes, map trade routes, and mark ownership of this canyon rest stop.
Unfortunately, alongside these irreplaceable historic treasures, a darker side of modern tourism was painfully obvious. Recent tourist graffiti and scratched initials were aggressively carved directly into the ancient sandstone right next to the historic petroglyphs. It was truly saddening to see how thoughtless (or better to say stupid) visitors are actively ruining the historical beauty and integrity of such an extraordinary monument.
A Desert caper (Capparis spinosa) plant was perched directly in the rocks in front of the canyon entrance, clinging remarkably to the bare stone. This resilient shrub produces delicate white and pink flowers with long, purple-tinted stamens that bloom briefly against the rugged sandstone. Furthermore, its fleshy green leaves and deep root system allow it to thrive in the harsh desert heat, drawing moisture from deep within the rock crevices. The unharvested flower buds of this tough plant are the very same capers widely used in Mediterranean cooking.
Even here, the desert was teeming with life, as several green, thriving bushes dotted the landscape. Small creatures scurried across the ground, including multiple pitted darkling beetles (Adesmia cancellata) and desert runner ants (Cataglyphis niger), who dashed across the hot sand so quickly that their tiny legs seemed to be on fire. Furthermore, the terrain revealed signs of larger desert inhabitants, from live camels resting nearby to a rather morbid reminder of nature’s cycle, where a severed camel leg complete with its hoof lay dried out in the sand.
As we were leaving in our 4×4, one of the camels was slowly following us, giving a funny look. “I hope it won’t spit” just crossed my mind looking at it.
Little Bridge (Raqabat al Wadak) of Wadi Rum
As we were approaching the Little Bridge in our 4×4, I was looking out at the rock structure standing in the distance while several visitors were posing on top for photos. Furthermore, as our vehicle was bouncing across the sand toward the site, I was eagerly watching the people navigate the high stone arch and was anticipating our own turn to climb up.
Little Bridge, known locally in Arabic as Raqabat al Wadak, is a natural wonder, standing seven metres above the desert floor and four metres high from its immediate rocky base, remaining one of the most beloved sandstone formations in the region. Furthermore, it is known as the smallest and most approachable of the three major rock arches scattered across the Wadi Rum desert, alongside its larger counterparts, Burdah and Um Fruth. Its modest elevation allowed us to climb easily atop its span without needing any specialised equipment.
The geographical position of the bridge makes it into a fantastic natural viewpoint over the central valley area. We reached the top quite quickly and we were rewarded with breathtaking views of sprawling red dunes and weathered sandstone peaks stretching toward the horizon. Just because it is so easy to climb and has amazing views it is a very popular spot for creative perspective photographs and you might see a lot of local tour jeeps parked near by.
Lawrence’s House
We arrived at the site in our 4×4, jumped out, and began our climb onto a weathered rocky outcrop that brought us to the ancient stone ruins known as Lawrence’s House. Local legend connected this desolate outpost to T. E. Lawrence, the iconic British officer who allegedly stored weapons and rested within these very walls during the Arab Revolt of World War I. However, archaeological investigations revealed a far more ancient origin that long predated modern conflict. The Nabataeans originally constructed the building over two thousand years ago, positioning it as a strategic guard post and vital beacon station along the lucrative trade routes connecting Petra to Damascus. Furthermore, those ancient guardians utilised the high vantage point to monitor caravan movements and signal warnings across the vast desert landscape.
Reaching the flat rock plateau behind the ruins rewarded us with an extraordinary panoramic perspective over the endless, golden-red sands and towering mountain massifs. The broad sandstone ledge was littered with hundreds of balancing rock cairns, delicate towers of flat stones carefully stacked by modern travellers to mark their journey. Wandering amongst these quiet stone sculptures provided a peaceful moment of reflection, though a closer look at the topmost rocks revealed that a few overeager tourists had unfortunately carved their initials into the ancient surface.
Getting up there turned out to be half the fun, as the route included scrambling over a sudden 2 m (6’5″) ledge that demanded some actual effort. Reaching the summit felt relatively straightforward after we conquered that wall, but descending presented a completely different challenge. The steep, slippery rock face had a funny way of turning confident hikers into cautious crawlers. Ultimately, making the trek to the very top proved to be a fantastic experience, though it was certainly not for faint hearted (who are afraid of heights).
Mahama Canyon in Wadi Rum
Just before our lunch we were taken to Mahama Canyon. A peaceful half-hour trek through Mahama Canyon provides an intimate look at the surprising life hidden within the desert ecosystem. Free from vehicle traffic, this winding passage acts as a natural water catchment during brief winter rains, creating a microclimate that allows resilient desert shrubs and green plants to flourish along the sandy path. Wandering through on foot offers a serene opportunity to admire the towering rock formations up close and appreciate the quiet tranquility of the desert.
I noticed dark lines in the rock. These distinct dark lines running horizontally across the sandstone face in Mahama Canyon are mineral veins, predominantly composed of iron and manganese oxide deposits. Furthermore, these mineral-rich layers formed millions of years ago when groundwater flowed through horizontal bedding planes and minor geological fractures, precipitating hard iron oxides that cemented the sand grains into a dark, durable crust.
Thriving right in the red sand, a desert mullein (Verbascum species) stood out with its broad, crinkled leaves resting close to the ground in a wide rosette. In addition, these thick, felt-like leaves are covered in fine hair that helps trap moisture and shield the plant from the scorching sun. A long, slender stalk shot straight up from the centre of the leaves, preparing to open into bright flowers once the season permitted.
Just behind the rosette, a white broom shrub (Retama raetam) spread its thin, leafless green stems across the landscape. Furthermore, this resilient desert plant produced tiny, delicate white flowers that bloomed briefly after rainfall, creating a soft contrast against the harsh environment. Its deep taproot system allowed it to anchor firmly in the loose soil while collecting precious water buried far below the surface.
Nearby on the ground, a delicate trail of bird tracks and small animal footprints was visible in the soft sand. Furthermore, these tiny prints criss-crossed the dunes, leaving a fascinating record of the desert’s active wildlife.
Once we arrived at a large Bedouin tent, we took a moment to relax with some warm tea before being invited to try sandboarding. Much like snowboarding, the basic idea is to strap into a board and glide down the dunes. However, the reality of physics quickly kicked in, as the high friction between the board and the sand made for a rather sticky ride. Nevertheless, the experience proved equally exhilarating, especially when a sudden wipeout sent a mini avalanche of sand directly into our trousers, mouths, and virtually every other imaginable crevices. Even my hiking shoes were full of sand through the net in front of them, which was very difficult to get it out. It became particularly hilarious given the stark realisation struck me that a hot shower was nowhere on the itinerary for the night!
Jebel Burdah Arch
Spanning high across the face of Jebel Burdah, also known as the Burdah Rock Bridge, this massive rock arch is widely recognized as one of the most impressive natural stone bridges in the world. Perched roughly 300 metres above the valley floor, the 35m high arch creates a dramatic silhouette against the clear desert sky. Furthermore, while full ascents to the top require a challenging multi-hour scramble with a guide, I knew that viewing this geological wonder even from the ground would offer a humbling perspective on the scale of Wadi Rum’s terrain. Although the arch was included in the itinerary of our tour, we ultimately skipped going there. To be honest, we would not have made it back until well after sundown anyway, given how much sightseeing we had already packed into a single day. Well at least I saw it from the car and manged to zoom in with my camera pretty up close.
Lunch in Wadi Rum Dessert
Driving across the desert for a while on the way to our lunch spot, we passed an endless procession of impressive sandstone rock formations. Sitting at the back of the 4×4 and looking backwards, I noticed three other off-road vehicles trailing close behind us through the vast emptiness, which instantly gave the impression of Mad Max movie. However, rather than trying to plunder our fuel supplies, the local wasteland “warriors” were simply out taking holiday photos and sightseeing for themselves.
Before the lunch was ready I went to explore surroundings. First, I spotted black stone, which looked very alien looking. However, it turned out to be just desert varnish (or rock varnish), which form over thousands of years, windblown dust containing trace amounts of manganese and iron oxides settles on exposed rock surfaces. Microscopic bacteria on the rock absorb these minerals and bake them into a thin, dark, lustrous coating under the intense desert sun. The lighter, rusty-tan patch where the surface has chipped away reveals the true colour of the underlying rock beneath the dark varnish layer. In Wadi Rum, these dark, varnished rocks—often basalt, granite, or iron-rich sandstone—contrast sharply with the bright orange and red sand, making them a distinctive geological feature of the area. Ancient Bedouins and Nabataeans frequently carved petroglyphs into rocks like this by scraping away the dark varnish to expose the lighter stone underneath. I honestly thought it was some sort of meteorite and actually those godly artefact, Apple of Eden, from Assassin Creed Odyssey reminded that stone and the fact that it was almost round, which is rare for desert Varnish, felt extraordinary, but I guess it is just a rock after all.
Going further, I spotted the entrance to a canyon that looked incredibly promising. The smooth, sweeping curves of the rock formations almost reminded me of the famous Antelope Canyon in Arizona. However, the deeper I ventured inside, the more disappointed I became. Walking further into the gorge revealed an alarming amount of plastic rubbish scattered across the floor, with discarded water bottles and broken plastic crates lying around everywhere. Nevertheless, the dry muddy ground was cracked into fascinating mosaic patterns, which looked oddly striking amidst the unfortunate mess. After I reached the very end of the canyon where the rock walls grew far too narrow to continue, I turned around and headed back to join the group for lunch.
One of the rock formation resembled a giant hand with thick, downward-pointing fingers resting directly against the desert sand. Apparently, many travellers and Bedouin guides compare these smooth, vertical columns to massive elephant feet or the pipes of a giant cathedral organ. Also, the deep vertical grooves and rounded sandstone pillars look remarkably like dripping candle wax or sculpted paws created over thousands of years by wind and rain erosion/
Returning to our 4×4, I saw our lunch was still cooking in the pot on the portable gas stove. Meanwhile, I decided to trek up a vast golden sand dune situated quite a distance from our campsite. Looking around, I was admiring scattered bushes and lonely trees growing directly out of the arid ground. I remembered that our guide had mentioned that desert scorpions and snakes occasionally shelter in the sand, though he reassured us that encounters were unlikely due to the cooler temperature. Nevertheless, I remained extremely cautious while stepping through the soft terrain. Upon reaching the crest of the dune, I experienced something extraordinary: despite standing around four hundred to five hundred metres away from our group, I could clearly hear my friends conversing. Furthermore, speaking back in my ordinary speaking voice allowed us to hold a conversation without shouting across the massive gap. This remarkable acoustic phenomenon offered a fascinating glimpse into how ancient desert travellers might have imagined the mysterious voices, laughter, and banquet sounds attributed to the local Djinn legends.
The clear transmission of voice across hundreds of metres in the desert occurs through a combination of unique acoustic conditions and atmospheric physics. During cooler parts of the day, a layer of cooler air often stays close to the sand beneath a warmer air layer above. Because sound waves travel faster through warm air than cool air, the upward-moving sound bends back down toward the ground upon hitting the warm layer, effectively forming a natural acoustic channel that keeps the voice from dispersing into the sky. Furthermore, open sand dunes lack trees, buildings, or heavy foliage that would otherwise absorb or disrupt sound waves. Additionally, the desert environment possesses an exceptionally low background noise level. Thus, without any ambient hum or physical obstacles to scatter the sound, a normal speaking voice can travel vast distances across the valley floor with remarkable clarity.
Once the lunch was ready, we all sat down together on a large blanket spread across the sand. Our guide served us generous portions to ensure that everyone had plenty to eat. The hummus and pita bread tasted delicious, as did the various sauces and the rich meat stew with vegetables. Everyone had enough to repeat the food. After finishing our meal, we enjoyed some sweet biscuits for dessert and drank refreshing juice to round off the meal.
Mushroom Rock (Sakhart al-Fitr)
Driving across the open plain in our 4×4, our guide brought us right up to Mushroom Rock, known locally as Sakhart al-Fitr. Standing proudly amidst the vast landscape, this impressive formation proved to be one of the most iconic geological sites in Wadi Rum and an absolute highlight for photos. Furthermore, our guide explained that this unusual top-heavy structure was sculpted over millions of years through wind deflation and thermal weathering, a natural process where blowing sand eroded the softer sandstone base much faster than the harder caprock resting on top. Observing the striking, natural sculpture up close provided a breathtaking demonstration of the sheer power of elemental forces shaping the desert. I even walked behind it to take a picture from another angle.
Um Fruth Rock Bridge of Wadi Rum
We were on our way to Um Fruth Rock Bridge (or Um Fruth Arch), which is another must see rock formation in Wadi Rum desert.
Upon arriving at the Um Fruth Arch, a local cat came over to greet us warmly. The little creature seemed very friendly, though its fur looked quite dusty from the desert sand. Watching the small cat wander across the ancient rock formations added a charming touch to our visit. Meanwhile, another cat was eagerly eating what looked like tuna and when called turned around with very unhappy muzzle almost saying “Do not disturb me!”.
Unlike its higher counterpart at Burdah Rock Bridge, the 15-metre-high Um Fruth Arch offers relatively easy access alongside an exciting climb for adventurous visitors. Scrambling up the steep sandstone face brings guests directly onto the natural stone bridge, which provides thrilling photo opportunities and sweeping views across the red desert floor below. Furthermore, thousands of years of water erosion carved this magnificent structure, turning it into one of the most celebrated highlights on any Wadi Rum desert tour.
Even this beautiful arch had carvings made by some irresponsible tourists.
Ascending the steep rock face feels simple enough, but descending presents a completely different challenge. Several visitors resort to sliding down on their bottoms to maintain stability and avoid falling. The braver ones, were climbing down like goats keeping their perfect balance. However, skipping the climb remains a wise choice for anyone who feels uncomfortable with heights.
Wadi Rum Martian Domes
During this trip, I saw quite a few of these Martian domes scattered across the landscape. The name likely stems from the famous Hollywood movie The Martian, where Matt Damon lived on Mars inside similar structures. While these domes certainly offer a unique accommodation experience—and some even claim to feature air conditioning—choosing an authentic Bedouin tent remains the superior option for several reasons.
First, many of these domes were constructed quite a while ago, meaning they are often not as well-maintained as traditional Bedouin tents, and their large glass windows tend to get quite dirty. Second, guests rarely spend much time inside their rooms while exploring the desert anyway. Third, running air conditioning and other modern utilities in such an environment places a heavy strain on local resources. Staying in traditional Bedouin tents proves to be a far more eco-friendly choice.
Spending a night in one of these domes might offer a cool setting for Instagram pictures, and looking out over the red desert of Wadi Rum could genuinely feel like living on Mars. However, keeping these practical considerations in mind ensures a much better overall experience. Furthermore, balancing picture-perfect expectations with reality helps travellers make the best accommodation choice for their desert adventure.
Chicken Rock and a Local Game
Finally we reached the iconic Chicken Rock (in arabic Sakhrat Al-Dajajah). It marked the final stop on our desert itinerary, bringing our memorable journey across Wadi Rum to a delightful close. Standing beside this whimsical, erosion-carved formation, our guide introduced us to a traditional Bedouin game where players take turns tossing small stones toward a small hole in the ground or a rock face, aiming to land them inside for points. Furthermore, trying our hand at this simple yet surprisingly tricky game while admiring the sandstone landscape provided a warm, laughter-filled finale to our adventure. The sun was slowly setting so we were heading to our spot to watch the highlight of the day – sunset in Wadi Rum Desert.
Located close to Chicken Rock, another highly impressive rock formation stood displaying a weathered sandstone ridge with distinct tafoni or honeycomb erosion patterns. Furthermore, these smooth, cavernous hollows and arch-like pockets formed over thousands of years as moisture, salt crystallisation, and wind erosion dissolved and hollowed out the softer interior layers of the porous red rock. On the left, a large natural overhang shelters a hollowed recess, while the central rock face showcases a striking series of vertical, pillar-like openings carved directly into the cliff face. Nevertheless, despite taking millennia for nature to sculpt this remarkable site, irresponsible tourists unfortunately left modern graffiti scratched across the ancient stones. Seeing such careless vandalism on a natural wonder serves as a frustrating reminder of the disrespect shown by visitors who fail to preserve fragile desert environments. These kind of tourists are the ones are not welcome anywhere!
The Red Sand and Unforgettable Sunset in Wadi Rum Desert
Just before 5:00 pm, we all gathered in one spot directly in front of the astronomical observatory. Spread out before us lay vast plains of golden and red sand, framed by towering mountains in the distance where the sun was slowly descending. However, thick clouds gathered along the horizon, causing the sun to disappear much quicker than expected.
Nevertheless, the landscape itself was an absolutely stunning view, and we could feel the rising wind turning noticeably colder by the minute. Watching the light change allowed us to see the desert painted in a deep orange colour as the sun went down. A local bedouin was coming back to his campsite with his camels. We posed for some pictures at sunset and there was one of me standing in a funny kung-fu pose. Ultimately, the entire scene looked absolutely beautiful.
The Bedouin Desert Camp – Night Under a Starry Night
At 5:18 pm, we arrived at our Bedouin camp for the night just as dusk was settling over the desert. It was quickly getting dark, and the narrow walkways leading to our tents were already softly lit up by glowing lanterns.
Also, a hilarious misunderstanding unfolded almost as soon as we checked in. My friend jokingly told our Bedouin hosts that I was her brother, which sent them into a sudden tailspin of concern. They began genuinely freaking out, insisting that a brother and sister absolutely could not share the same room and bed under their roof and we should be given a separate room. We quickly had to step in and clarify that we sleep under separate blankets and it is acceptable, without blowing the made up story. I am pretty sure they still suspected some bizarre incest was about to happen in one of their tents!
Shortly after our arrival, we were invited to watch the Bedouins unearth our dinner from the underground pit. Our hosts kindly explained the full cooking process whilst carefully lifting the food out so that no sand would fall into the food. Indeed, eating a meal full of gritty sand would not be very enjoyable. Furthermore, the food tasted absolutely delicious, and the generous portions allowed everyone to go back for several rounds of tender chicken and vegetables.
A shy cat was hiding under the benches in the dining room throughout the evening. Naturally, spotting the timid creature prompted me to share some of my chicken meat with it. The little visitor enjoyed a tasty meal of its own and I even managed to capture his cute ginger face.
After finishing dinner, we all gathered in a traditional Bedouin tent to sip hot tea and chat. The conversation slowly transformed into a fascinating session of Bedouin stories about Djinns and mysterious Algerian woman tribe, very intriguing topics which I covered in a separate post. Moreover, listening to the storyteller beside a crackling campfire while enjoying warm tea felt like a genuinely amazing experience. A few people even smoked inside the tent, which seems to be fully permitted in the tent.
Stargazing during the evening turned out to be somewhat limited because our visit coincided with a full moon and also overcast. Bright moonlight bathed the entire desert landscape, which unfortunately washed out the night sky and left only the brightest stars and planets visible. Planning a trip during a new moon is highly recommended if you wish to experience pitch-black nights and brilliant starry views with amazing Milky Way!
Strange Nightmare of Bedouin Woman
I drifted off to sleep quite quickly, feeling exceptionally comfortable beneath three heavy layers of warm camel wool blankets, even though the desert temperature dropped down to around 5°C during the night. The interior of the tent remained pitch dark, wrapped only in the soothing, gentle rustle of the wind outside.
Furthermore, the tranquil atmosphere soon gave way to a chilling nightmare. In the dream, I opened my eyes to find an angry, elderly Bedouin woman standing directly over me, staring intently down into my face. Horrified, I tried to leap backward and scream, but my mouth felt completely sealed shut, much like Neo’s mouth in the film The Matrix. I could only manage a muffled, helpless groan while trapped in total panic. She then turned and began to walk away, only to stop abruptly, turn back with a menacing glare, and growl, “You should not be sleeping in the same bed with her!”
At that exact moment, I bolted awake in terror, letting out a short, sharp gasp as reality snapped back into place. The tent was still pitch dark, and the soft breeze had transformed into a howling, aggressive wind battering the canvas walls. To make matters worse, I suddenly realised I urgently needed to use the bathroom after drinking far too much bedouin tea before bed. Consequently, with my heart still pounding wildly in my chest, I reluctantly crept out from under the warm blankets and made my way toward the outdoor toilet in the dark. I must say the toilets were extremely clean as opposed to Morocco where they have been jammed by massive turds and toilet paper!
Breakfast and Camels
I woke up inside a chilly Bedouin tent, and the morning air felt quite cold. Staying under the heavy blankets for a bit longer seemed like a wonderful idea. However, I eventually dragged myself out of the bed and walked over to have breakfast. The meal was very good, with plenty of food options available. I ate until I felt completely full.
I also solved the mystery of the strange noises from the previous night. Loud and peculiar sounds had kept me curious throughout the dark hours. I discovered a group of camels resting just outside our camp when I stepped outdoors. One particularly vocal camel was responsible for making all those unusual noises.
After finishing breakfast, we boarded our 4×4 to head back to Wadi Rum Village and pick up our car. The sky above us looked heavy with dark grey clouds, appearing as though it might rain at any moment. I found myself reflecting on my odd luck with desert travel, as rain seemed to follow me whenever I visited one (a day before in Al Salloum Egypt in 2006 and few weeks before visiting Mezounga desert in Morocco in 2024). Maybe it was because I was coming from a country, with a name literally originating from constant rainfall. Without any bright sunlight to illuminate them, the streets of Wadi Rum Village looked even more depressing and abandoned.
Tips for Wadi Rum
- Bring enough cash to pay for your tour and entrances fees as there are no reliable ATMs in Wadi Rum Village and most often cards won’t be accepted.
- Bring warm clothes for the night
- Do not wear netted shoes as the send will end up in your shoes and it is difficult to get it out. Wear good hiking shoes ideally if you are doing all the exploration and climbing the rocks. Flip flops won’t work and also dangerous as you can come across scorpions or snakes in a warm period!