Sukhothai Historical Park Central Zone: UNESCO Site in Thailand’s Ancient Capital

It was another morning in Thailand and today I was going to explore Sukhothai Historical Park in the Old Sukhothai, old Thailand’s capital.

Getting from New Sukhothai to Old Sukhothai

The cheapest way to get to Old Sukhothai is of course a local bus. Below is the schedule that was in January 2025, so do check the schedule in your accommodation as times might change. As you can see it is not that many buses that can take you there, so plan accordingly. I would suggest staying in Old Sukhothai and explore the park for couple of days without rushing. Do arrive early, as spaces to that bus are very limited!

Locating the bus stop for Old Sukhothai proved quite simple. The spot was designated as “Market – Old City”, and the vehicle itself resembled a super modern bus featuring benches facing one another, zero seat belts, plus a roof protecting passengers against the harsh sun. Indeed, the entire journey felt precisely like a wild safari experience just for significantly lower price! I think the ticket was like ฿30, while safari would cost you a half million baht. We waited for the driver and then all jumped in the back with the rising sun as I took the first bus at 8:30 am.

45 minutes later we were in Old Sukhothai. First, I went to a shop close to the entrance to rent a bike. Renting a bike in here was even cheaper than in Si Satchanalai – only ฿30 (~£0.7) for a day. I wrote my details and they gave a lock and said always to lokc the bike. Though the lock seemed very flimsy and definitely not the Kyrptonite lock. Of course, the bike was quite old again, but in much better condition than the one in Si Satchanalai. Interestingly, the prices haven’t changed sine June 2008! So, I had time until 5 pm to return my bike.

Renting a bike is easy as they have quite few places around and I chose the one located just next to Vitoon Guesthouse (as it has no name just a sign ฿30). You can even rent a golf cart if you really want to next to Toon Guesthouse!

Wat Mai at Sukhothai Historical Park

First I stopped at Wat Mai temple, closest to the entrance of Sukhothai Historical Park. Tthis site reveals a fascinating, clear Ayutthaya architectural influences woven into its design.

The focal point of the complex is a massive assembly hall (vihara) built upon a high two-tiered base. The lower tier originally served as an elevated circumambulation platform (Pradaksina), while the upper tier features ornate lion-foot moulding (khaeng sing), a classic signature of Ayutthaya style. Around the main hall rest several small subordinate chedis. Walking about 100 meters further north, I came across the base of a distinctive nine-spired chedi—a grand central stupa encircled by eight smaller ones. Though the spires have all collapsed over time, leaving only their foundations intact, exploring the site offers a compelling look at how Ayutthayan aesthetics merged into the sacred heart of old Sukhothai.

Lillies in the Pond

I entered Sukhothai Historical Park at 9:00 am. After paying the admission fee, I continued riding along nice roads to reach Wat Chana Songkhram temple. At that time, I have seen beautiful pond filled with fresh water, surrounded with green water lilies which created impressive view.

It spreads right in front of ancient temple complex with amazing scenery of water lilies growing. As I watched over the water surface, small bunches of bright pink colored flowers standing proud with thin stems on dark colored wide lily pads and unopened flower buds pointing towards the sun.

Water lilies have deep spiritual meaning in Buddhism and represent purity and enlightenment. Flowers rising up from the dirty water to open in clean water symbolizes spirituality. Visiting such flowers in front of this Wat Chana Songkhram which means Victory in War added some poetic peace of the temple complex, dedicated to victories!

I have walked a bit forward and have seen the tranquil pond serving as the perfect mirror in the sky full of blue colors. One streak-breasted Chinese Pond Heron (Ardeola bacchus) was standing perfectly amidst the greenery of the bank and observing carefully the lotus-covered pond. Pink flowers contrast beautifully with dark leaves in the foreground, giving the picture a sort of live frame for weathered brick stupas and stones.

What amazed me is the combination of nature and history, and the tranquility created when standing beside the pond. I stopped walking at the edge of the water, just admiring the view of Sukhothai’s wonderful nature combined with its ancient architecture.

Wat Chana Songkhram, Sukhothai

After admiring the pond with lillies I have stopped at Wat Chana Songkhram temple, which gives really amazing example of architectural style of ancient Sukhothai kingdom. Translation of its name says “Victory in War”. This temple was erected in the 14th century for celebration of victories and might be associated with conquest of regional lands. Here you may witness great architecture style of that time. I am impressed!

Inside the temple there is main building called Main Chedi, built in Sri Lankan Theravada Buddhism style. This architecture style is characterized as Lankavong style. Around the main Chedi are several other chedis showing combination of different styles. For example, you can notice very interesting architecture style with typical lotus-bud spires, which became signature feature of classical Sukhothai architecture. Right before the Main Chedi is located ruins of the brick building – Assembly hall (Viharn). There is statue of seated Buddha looking to the outside area of the temple.

There is something about that Temple location, which I think adds additional charm to it. It is located by the side of beautiful ponds with lotuses growing on them. The reflection of brick walls and columns from ponds makes amazing picture in open air with the help of natural mirror effect. While passing Wat Chana Songkhram Temple on bicycle I could fully feel historical importance of this place showing the King’s Triumph and being a part of UNESCO Heritage Site now.

In the distance I could see Wat Mahathat busy with people.

King Ramkhamhaeng Monument

There is certainly something unique about Temple’s location that I found extremely charming about it! The temple complex was situated by side of very beautiful ponds covered by lotuses. Reflections of brick walls and columns in those ponds create fantastic scene outdoors using natural reflection technique. While cycling past Wat Chana Songkhram Temple, I could fully appreciate historical significance of such place symbolizing Kings Triumph.

The statue itself made of bronze and copper was absolutely gorgeous piece! Standing two times larger than the natural height and weighting 3 tones this statue is presenting a posture of typical Sukhothai gentleman and face expression inspired by Buddha statues of Sukhothai era. The statue is seating impressively on the replica of Manangkhasila Asana throne whose measurements are 2.88 meters width by 4 meters long. With book in right hand and teaching gesture with another – the king is presenting the combination of knowledge and power. Close to him on the throne there is a knife on the tray, representing the balance between academic and royal powers.
And finally looking across the lake the composition created by this statue surrounded by perfectly shaped potted trees resembling traditional bonsai trees in Mai Dad Topiary Style looks simply fantastic.

Wat Tra Kuan, Sukhothai

Next I cycled to Wat Tra Kuan temple ruins. Firstly, Wat Tra Kuan is located under the beautiful blue sky. Second thing I noticed was beautiful central bell shaped chedi constructed with brick material. Historical sources mentioned that Wat Tra Kuan temple’s name was first found on an ancient stone inscription dated to 15th century located at Wat Sorasak Temple. Also, it mentions that Venerable Mahathera Dharmatrailok lived at this location once visiting his nephew ruling the Sukhothai kingdom. Amazingly King Rama VI claims that “Tra Kuan” means something related to Water Morning Glory (Phak Bung) from Khmer language.

Moving forward along sunny terrain I have understood that Wat Tra Kuan has central stupa located right near brick foundation and remnants of columns belonging to its assembly hall surrounded by huge leaf trees. Wat Tra Kuan was protected once by moat. Here many Buddha images of early Sukhothai era created in unique style called Wat Tra Kuan were carved out. In addition standing at this temple gives wonderful view of brick walls among greens!

Wat Sra Sri (Wat Sa Si)

It was a short bike ride to Wat Sra Sri, also called Wat Sa Si. Beautiful views of the main chedi located on the opposite side across the tranquil waters of Tra Phang Tra Kuan pond! Riding past the long avenue of high palms and coming closer to the red wooden bridge. Ruins look really animated as there were plenty of fauna taking full advantage of the warm rays of early morning sun.

Close to the asphalt roads and lawns it looks like there is some dogs patrol group taking place here. First, the black and tan dog lying completely flat sleeping on the sun heated tiles, no cares on its mind. Second dog looking for the shady place near the lampstand post making a dramatic wide mouth opening yawning show before going to sleep. Couple of dark colored dogs walking leisurely along the fence area making a tour round before going under trees shadow.

On the border with the pond, there was another lovely wildlife observation site. On top of the inclined concrete beam just on the edge of the pond sat a little heron, which has beautiful streaked breast area. The bird stayed absolutely still with its beak directed forwards. It has been searching through the waves for a prey.

A few meters ahead of the previous place there was another amazing bird which is called egrets. Standing completely still on the edge of the shallow water was this pure snow-white bird. Long and slim neck together with sharp bill creates such elegant look, that it seems that bird became frozen for ever.

Contrast between the majestic ruins of the 14th century temple buildings and those ordinary scenes makes whole journey so exciting and pleasant. I love taking close up shots of the birds!

After I locked my bike, I was walking on the wooden bridge towards this beautiful place and suddenly people dispersed and gave me possibility to shoot a nice picture of the bell-shaped chedis in the end.

Wat Sa Si (Wat Sra Sri) Temple is probably one of the nicest temples located within the territory of the Sukhothai Historical Park. Located on the island surrounded by huge pond called Tra Phang Tra Kuan. Reflection created in this peaceful place is absolutely fantastic!

Firstly this temple attracted me due to its architectural style and historical value. Constructed in 14th Century, Wat Sa Si Temple includes the bell-shaped chedi which originates from the Sri Lankan Buddhist architecture tradition and ruins of ubosot (ordination hall). Ubosot placement on the island surrounded by the pond has significant meaning and called Nam Sima. Back in time the water surrounded the sacred site and was a natural border creating purity of the monastic ritual area. Stone markers Bai Sema came much later in time.

Apart from it being an extremely picturesque place, it becomes even more spectacular in autumn during Loy Krathong and Candle Festival held on full moon day of the twelfth lunar month (November). Interestingly enough, Sukhothai is known historically as the birthplace of Loy Krathong. People bring there specially crafted lotus-like baskets (krathongs), decorated with candles and incense sticks, to float upon the water in the pond area of the temple. This place attracts numerous tourists who attend to admire fantastic fireworks shows, parades, concerts and light sound shows reminding the glory days of Thai ancient kingdom!

Once I passed a bridge to another island the first thing catches your attention is rows of stone pillars rising along the elevated brick walkway directly guiding to the peaceful sitting Buddha statue and impressive bell shaped stupa. Right before my feet I have seen carved boundary stone called Bai Sema. Actually there is a whole line of these beautiful stones and weathered stone columns on both sides of walkway that goes among lush green trees giving us some shadows. From every side people take their photos trying to capture magnificent view of the Chedi rising to blue skies.

Those distinctive leaf shaped stones are known as Bai Sema or Sema stones and play very important role in religious construction of the Thai Buddhism. They do not belong neither decoration nor usual border marks, but they clearly show borders of the sacred area of ubosot. According to Thai Buddhism ubosot is considered the holiest building of the entire temple as it is designated for performing various important Buddhist ceremonies related to the ordinations of novices and monks taking their monastic vows.

And not only location is meaningful, it also means consecration itself, which includes positioning stones according to strictly defined ritualistic rules. The number of eight stones named Bai Sema has to be located at the four corners of buildings at cardinal and four intercardinal points, creating spiritual and physical borders around the sacred site. Under each stone is placed consecrated ball called Luk Nimit; its task is to protect the place from any distractions in worldly life and evil powers. Moreover, shape of each stone is specially carved in resemblance of leaves of Bodhi tree, in which Buddha obtained his knowledge. That is why passing next to such stones means walking across border between mundane and holy monk territories in history of Wat Sra Sri temple.

I am totally impressed and fascinated with everything here!

Wat Traphang Ngoen Phra Ubosot, Sukhothai

Ubosot (Ordination Hall) is located in the heart of the historical park, in the island situated in the middle of the pond. To reach this location I had to pass through small wooden bridge painted red!

As follows from traditional Sukhothai architecture style the holy building was erected precisely on the water-enclosed island reflecting purity. Original wooden roof structure and tiled roofs were lost during ages. However the foundation base made of bricks and stone columns are perfectly preserved till today. On top of it there is an empty pedestal of Buddha statue which used to stand there and looking toward the main lotus bud Chedi!

Late afternoon hours bring amazing atmosphere with wonderful sunlight shining through old stone columns of Ubosot creating reflection of nearby stupas on still waters. I managed to shoot great images of Wat Traphang Ngoen main Chedi and Viharn (Assembly Hall)!

Wat Traphang Ngoen

Central zone of the temple Wat Traphang Ngoen is occupied by the building called Main Chedi (or Principal Stupa) that is truly outstanding example of architecture style of Sukhothai era.

As its name suggests, this Chedi was built according to Sukhothai architectural style. Its specific characteristic is a lotus-bud-shaped spire on several storeys high square pedestal. On every side of this Chedi four arched niches were carved with walking Buddha statues directed toward four cardinal points. Moreover, at every corner of this pedestal smaller stupas were carved emphasizing importance of main spire located there.

Next structure positioned right across the Main Chedi is called Assembly Hall or Viharn, located on the central axis of the temple complex. The roof and wooden superstructure have deteriorated with time, yet one can easily imagine how grandiose and magnificent this building once used to be. Brick and laterite columns are still visible within the interior space of the building. The huge brick statue of seated Buddha positioned on high platform can be seen at the far end of the assembly hall facing eastwards. Standing inside this hall under the huge brick chedi which is positioned just behind the main alter position offers fantastic view of this temple complex!

Unknown Temples at Sukhothai Historical Park

On the route to Wat Si Sawai, some unidentified temple foundations appeared. Actually, these ruins of temples showed how rich in its spiritual past this park is!

Unidentified archaeological sites emphasize how huge the historical city was! The first findings were nicely renovated foundations built of bricks. In their centre were higher elevated pedestals, where there were small assembly halls or stupas. Continuing walking in the shadows of ancient trees along the path, the next foundations appeared with lines of worn laterite column foundations on the large brick platforms. Next to those there were also small foundations in form of octagons sunk in the soil.

Wat Si Sawai

And so I kept cycling continued and on the way to Wat Si Sawai temple site we have stumbled across few unknown ruins of some temples, and it shows how culturally rich the area was! Well yes, I am quite impressed now!

Unknown ruins show us how enormous the ancient city once was! First discoveries that we found were some well preserved foundation constructions made out of bricks. In its center were elevated pedestals, where small assembly rooms or stupas existed. Further walking under shade of huge old tree branches brought us into another ruins with columns bases lined up on large brick platforms, besides those were foundations with shape of octagon sunken in soil.

Archaeological excavations proved that initially this temple complex has been created for Hindu religion purposes. Archaeologists have discovered an amazing carved stone with Vishnu, the supreme being of Hinduism depicted lying down in the Ananta Shesha Naga position. Moreover, there have been pieces of different other Hindu idols, Lingams used as objects of worship.

Later this temple complex has become a Buddhist religious temple with Theravada Buddhism. This transformation included addition of two assembly halls (Vihāra) from the front side of the temple to integrate the old Hindu style Khmer building architecture with the Sukhothai Buddhist buildings architecture.

One more evidence proves that it has been really Hindu religious temple in the past before transformation to Buddhism Temple. Crown Prince Rama VI of Bangkok had visited this archaeological remains of the temple complex. He discovered there the statue made of bronze depicting Sayumpu (Shiva).

Leaving Wat Si Sawai on the way to the next temple, a maintenance truck passed by, hauling away broken branches and fallen leaves whilst stirring up a massive cloud of dust in its wake. Meanwhile, a large group of tourists was just arriving along the road, heading towards the temple complex. It felt remarkably lucky that most visitors had cleared out right as the visit to Wat Si Sawai began, which allowed for plenty of quiet moments to capture photos without anyone in the frame.

Wat Mahathat

Archaeological excavations show that this temple complex was firstly established as Hindu religious place. During excavation archaeologists have found absolutely amazing carved stones with depiction of Vishnu – Hindu god of gods lying on Ananta Shesha Naga stone. Additionally they have found various remains of Hindu idols, called Lingams worshipped as deities.

Secondly, this Hindu Temple complex turned into Buddhist one and became the centre of Theravada Buddhism. This conversion involved construction of two new assembly hall buildings named Vihāra. They have added these buildings to the old Hindu style Khmer architecture buildings.

Third reason shows how Hindu Temple was before becoming Buddhist Temple complex. Crown Prince of Bangkok Rama VI has visited these temple ruins. He found here the statue made from bronze showing Sayumpu – another name for Shiva.

That’s the story of this ancient temple in Thailand. Amazing journey between two great religions – Hinduism and Buddhism and their unique temples!

Further exploration brought us to another significant point. There was also cluster of satellite stupas located exactly south from the major lotus bud chedi. In the center of the cluster stood a grandiose five-spired chedi which was just second biggest compared to the main stupa. From historical discoveries it follows the great importance of this building since according to the inscription written on golden plate the sacred relics of King Phra Maha Dharmarāja I (Li Thai), one of the holiest kings of Sukhothai, were stored inside this very chedi.

When leaving Wat Mahathat temple we stopped by the lakeside which was perfect place for photographing. View over the lake was amazing. Beautiful reflections of those ancient ruins in the lake was incredible!

Leaving Central Zone of Sukhothai Historical Park

I cycled around Central Zone of Sukhothai Historical Park for 3 hours and after midday I have decided to head up to the West Zone. I practically missed entire Western zone of Sukhothai park while riding bicycle as I sawt the fence closing the road, which I had to pass through. First of all, I stopped at one of the stands selling drinks to buy some water. Unfortunately, I drank all mine already. What do you know, I have only bought 0.5 liters of mineral water as I didn’t want to increase my backpack weight. I was going to regret that decision pretty soon.

After I crossed that barrier I reached the gate of the West wall Pratu Ao, known as Broken Wall Gate. There are really thick brick walls! I proceeded walking along the road when saw lovely little canal. The canal was practically dried, however it had plenty green plants on both sides. I was surprised as felt like being somewhere outside the city surrounded with cows standing on enclosures and then suddenly found myself walking along a road with less trees.

I had to split this article into two parts as the images weren’t loading in too long article page. Just to mention, the central Sukhothai part was much more busy with tourists, but not as busy as in Bangkok temples or Ayutthaya, while Western Zone was pretty empty most of the time.

If you have enjoyed reading this article, or have constructive feedback please leave a comment.

Sukhothai Western Zone: Dying of Thirst in the Heat of Thai Sun

Tips for Sukhothai Historical Park

1. Stay a night in Old Sukhothai, so you have couple days to explore the Historical Park
2. Plan your transport, either it is taxi or a bus and do book it in advance as from what I saw the bus to Chiang Mai was quite busy.
3. Have in mind that New Sukhothai is quite far from Old Sukhothai around 12 to 13 kilometers (7.5 to 8 miles). It is not feasible (though somewhat possible if you like long distance walking) to just walk as the road is made for cars mainly and cycling would take time too as even that bus takes around 45 minutes.
4. If you’re planning to take that public bus, be at the stop earlier. Also, if you are trying to board it in the other stops, there is a big chance that it will be full and it won’t stop, so do have an alternative plan in place (taxi or tuk tuk).
5. Last, but not the least – HAVE PLENTY OF WATER WITH YOU! Once you leave the central part of the park, there will be nowhere to buy water. I would recommend having at least 1 litre or even 1.5 litre of water on a hot day. Learn from my mistake!
6. Have small baht notes for buying water as you will be able to pay only cash and some small shops might not have the change.
7. Don’t miss Wat Si Chum, which has a big sitting Buddha enclosed in walls. In general leave time to exlpore the Northern part, which I didn’t.
8. Don’t miss Wat Saphan Hin, which has a big standing Buddha.
9. Visit Saphan Boon Wat Traphang Thong. which. is an active buddhist temple.
10. Tips how to get to New Sukhothai can be found here.