Let me start with what a pain is to get from New Sukhothai to Si Satchanalai (easiest way to remember the name is “Such and a lie”, which worked for me)! First, the only option I found is only from New Sukhothai. Second, Si Satchanalai doesn’t have railway connection, the same way as Sukhothai doesn’t have one. This means first you have to get to New Sukhothai by bus (or taxi) from Phitsanulok or from Chiang Mai and from there to go to Si Satchanalai. You can book private taxi transfers through GetYourGuide too.
Table of Contents
Getting to Si Satchanalai
The cheapest way to get to Si Satchanalai Historical Site, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is by public bus from Sukothai bus terminal (new Sukothai) going to Uttaradit, that stops at Si Satchanalai. However, the bus leaves only twice a day: 9:30 am or 12:30 pm. Ticket price ฿68. Return times at 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm, but do clarify that on the day as they might be late. Strangely enough, the other day I also saw this bus leaving to Uttaradit at 7:00 am. Maybe that one was just an express bus and doesn’t stop in Si Satchanalai. Also, if you are staying in “Old Sukhothai” you will need to travel to New Sukhothai (Sukhothai bus terminal) and get a bus from there. Once you arrive to Si Satchanalai, you will need to rent a bike as it is quite a big place to walk on foot and I do recommend staying at least one night there!
Another option would be a taxi, but taxi through would cost around ฿800-900 (if you’re lucky to bargain). The poster in the accommodation said ฿1200 for private taxi and taxi tour from ฿1500 to ฿2200 (£33-£45) depending how long tour you wish (1-3h or 4-5h). I would guess that’s what all taxi drivers will ask you for driving you there, but also make sure to make the arrangement of getting back as I didn’t see a single taxi in Si Satchanalai! One more option of booking a private taxi via 12go.asia, but that said even more – ฿2300 (~£45)! I guess it is more luxurious one! I mean the taxi prices are not insane given the taxi prices in USA and European countries also if you wish more comfort, then that’s the way to go. However, if you are on the budget or want to experience the fun of local transport, that might be not for you.
Bus From Phitsanulok to New Sukhothai
I left Phitsanulok at 8:00am and got to my accommodation in Sukhothai at 9:30 am, which was very close to Sukhothai bus terminal. I was staying at RueangSriSiRi Guest House. It was pretty decent given it cost me only ฿480 (~£11) for two nights! My rooms wasn’t ready yet, so I decided to drop my bag and go to explore Sukhothai and get some food, but about that in another post.
I got back to my guest house at 11:30 am and the room was ready. It was quite big, given I paid only ฿480 (£10) and it had a working aircon! I dropped my things and I was thinking to head to Old Sukhothai, but it was too late in the day and the next bus was only at 2:00 pm or 4:30 pm. I missed 8:30 am bus. It was not worth it to go at 2:00 pm and then to come back at 6:30 pm. I would have only 3 hours or so. So I decided to try my luck to go to Si Satchanalai as there was a bus at 12:30 pm.
I booked a bus at 12:30 pm for ฿68. I am pretty sure the lady in the booking office misunderstood me when I said “Si Satchanalai” as she said ฿105, but when I showed on a map the name of the town she changed the price to ฿69. Always show the name! She also crossed over the time 11:45pm on my ticket that she printed and wrote a different time by hand 12:30 pm. Good luck reading that ticket, but date, departure and destination seemed valid at least. It also includes ฿ 200,000 (~£2450) insurance and maximum coverage of ฿500 for your bag, which is like £11, enough to cover one t-shirt.
The Bus Ride to Si Satchanalai
I arrived around 8 minutes to departure at 12:30 pm and a bus was already standing in the bus stop and the bus was completely full! Even though my ticket had a seat assigned, but nobody cares about that! My advice, you should just go inside and take a seat if the bus door is open and also come earlier. It might be also because it was Saturday and people going home. Almost half of the bus was Thailand’s military personnel travelling somewhere. I was the only foreigner in the entire bus!
First, I got a seat in the very back. That’s the only steat that was empty as the bus was completely full. However, that massive air conditioning module above (it was somewhat working, but not as well as modern ones) meant I had to bow my head very low to be able to fit there! Keeping my head down for awhile was giving me the neck pain.
In the end, one Thai lady saw me, probably the tallest and biggest man in the bus, struggling and offered to swap the seats on one of the disks in the luggage area behind the seats and just in front of me. At least I could stretch my neck now and didn’t have to suffer in that crippled position anymore. It wasn’t the most comfortable seat, but definitely better than that under aircon seat. Also, I’ve noticed that a lady in front of me was sitting alone, but she was taking up two seats, as she decided to stretch her leg on one of the seats.
Ok, I am taking back what I said about the precious bus to Sukhothai that it was a bit run down. This one was probably taken from a museum! Half of the handles on the seats are missing. On a bright side, at least it was bearable inside of the bus, as aircon kept it at around 25-26°C (77°F). Also, lets talk about those padded ceilings. Is it for the tall people like me not to hit the ceiling or is to transport people to the asylum? Just joking.
Funny enough, at the end of the bus there was a sign to fasten your seatbelt as you can get a fine ฿5000. What seatbelt? Especially when I was sitting on the disk and not even on a proper seat! I mean the sign was put in 2017 and I do agree those buses should have a seatbelt as we are going in the urban areas and who knows what could happen.
I do see the seat belts hanging under the seats, but not a single person is strapped in. Oh and yes, funny enough my backpack (the one on the top) was green colour, almost the same colour as all those military guys had it that pile.
It was only one hour to destination. That was my only solace, while sitting a bit uncomfortably. That didn’t last long though, as someone started eating some fried meat. The entire bus had a strange smell now and not the pleasant one.
The bus arrived 20 min late to Si Satchanalai. Few minutes before I left the bus, the conductor was worried for me when I was going back. It was really sweet! He was trying to tell me something int Thai, but with no luck. I as trying to communicate in non verbal language, but that didn’t work either. Luckily, a girl helped me to translate what he was saying and I told him that it was coming back today. Then he was saying something again in Thai and the girl translated 4:00 pm, butt then he corrected himself and said at 4:30 pm to be at the bus stop. So I typed on my calculator 4.30 and he came back with a notepad and wrote at 4:45 pm, even 15 min later. “Perfect!”, I thought “I have more time in Si Satchanalai”.
The bus stopped in a very unexpected place, by the road. No bus stop sign or schedule. Nothing! The conductor pointed to one of the shops and said “bicycle”. That was helpful! Thank you!
Renting a bike
I asked the owner if they rent bikes. Both a woman and man spoke only Thai. Somehow we agreed it is ฿70 for the bike. They also sold me a small beer. I guess those alcohol selling hours don’t work here? ฿40 for small Chang beer. I was very thirsty and instantly downed the can of that cold beer on the spot!
The first bike they gave me had a flat tire, so he took a second one out from his dark workshop and while he was taking it out he knocked the a big box with bottles. He started swearing and yelling in Thai. I guessed he was swearing junging from the tone of his voice. I guess I could guess swearing in any language! He was throwing those bottles into boxes as if he was having a tantrum. This is the first time I saw an angry Thai person and in Thailand! His wife was saying something to him. I guess something “to calm down”.
I asked for a lock and the guy said “you don’t need it”. I was surprised. Apparently, it is very safe in here as opposed to Ayutthaya I was told to always lock it. Well the bike was quite rusty and old, that is probably another reason why nobody would take it.
So I put my mobile in the bike’s cart with the Google map navigation on and I was going to the archeological site through the big gate.
Loosing My Mobile Phone
I was happily riding my bike, following the navigation on my phone, safely laying in a wire basket in front of my bike. Just a minute later, right before the bridge, I noticed my phone was no longer in the basket! I felt my heart pumping blood to my head and I franticly started looking for it around me and on the ground. I turn my head back and I see the guy running towards me, holding my mobile in his hand to give it back to me. Wow! I was really impressed. It seems the phone slipped through the mesh of the basket and dropped to the ground and I also ran over it with my bike! In London if I would have lost the phone, the guy would run the other way, well in all fairness they just snatch it from your hands while they ride the electric bikes. So yeah I was very surprised, bu the kindness! The entire screen protector was shattered! Luckily, it was just the screen protector! I felt so happy to recover my phone and I just kept pushing forward.
Now I had to cross that scary bridge. I saw motorcycles passing and the bridge was swinging to all the sides like a swing!
Entrance to Si Satchanalai Archeological Site
I crossed the bridge with no trouble. There was the entrance to the Si Satchanalai Archeological site. It was really loosely guarded as there was no one at the entrance and if I would have just passed it, no one would have stopped me, but since I asked for directions at a booth I saw on my left, they turned out to be the place that sells the tickets. They old guy in the booth looked so happy and surprised to see me! I was probably the only tourist visitor there or maybe because he didn’t have to chase me.
I paid ฿50 for the entrance ticket for Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan temple. Then I jumped back on my mike and was heading to that temple, which was very close by. It was the temple I saw when researching what to see in Si Satchanalai. Later I found out, that I could have bought a combined ticket for ฿220, which could be a small save if you are planning to see all of the paid temples in Si Satchanalai. Anyway, it is like £1 save, can’t even get an a beer for that, though in Thailand I could eat a lunch for that!
Once I reached my first temple in Si Satchanalai I just left my bike by the entrance to the temple. Slightly, worrying that someone could take it, but I really din’t want to drag it with me as it was quite heavy. I looked around and I was all alone here anyway. There was no ticket checking, no control, just wide open gate inviting to explore inside. While sightseeing I kept checking if my bike was still standing. I guess that’s London trauma again, as here it would be swopped in seconds, even if it is locked sometime! Well maybe not this rusty old piece of junk (there is a reason for saying that, keep reading). Later I got a bit more relaxed and left it there on its own while exploring Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat temple.
History of Si Satchanalai
People have lived in this naturally fortified spot by the Yom River since at least the 3rd or 4th century. It was a Dvaravati town before the Khmer people arrived in the late 11th or early 12th century. The Sukhothai Kingdom gained freedom from the Khmer in 1237 and Sukhothai kingdom established in 1238. They made this area their second city, naming it Si Satchanalai and was ruled by the crown prince Sri Indraditya (also known as Bang Klang Hao or Indrapatindraditya). The Sukhothai people expanded west, building almost all the old temples you see today. They changed a small Khmer outpost into a major centre for religion, art, and trade. The Ramkhamhaeng Inscription, from 1292, names Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang as “Sri Ratanadjatu.”
The Ayutthaya Kingdom took over this region in the 15th century. They changed the city’s name to Sawankhalok. Even though Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang was no longer in the city’s main area, both Sukhothai and Ayutthaya kept it as a very important temple. However, eight years after the Ayutthaya Kingdom fell in 1767, King Rama 1 (who ruled from 1782-1809) moved Sawankhalok city 15km south to its current spot. This left Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang and the rest of the old city in ruins.
Ubosot (Wat Phra Prang)
Before entering to Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang, I stopped at the newly built temple called Ubosot.
You can see a stone object in front of this Thai temple in the image below, which is called a sema stone (also known as a bai sema in Thai).
Sema stones are the boundary markers that define the consecrated area of a bot (ordination hall) in a Thai Buddhist temple. The area enclosed by these stones is considered sacred and is where important monastic rituals, such as the ordination of monks, take place.
These stones are often shaped like a stylized leaf or a boundary marker, and they are typically placed at the eight cardinal and sub-cardinal points around the bot, with a ninth stone often buried beneath the main Buddha image inside. They can be simple or elaborately carved, and in the image you provided, the sema stone appears to be gilded or covered in gold leaf as an act of veneration.
Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat temple
Next I wanted to see a stunning Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat temple, which I wrote in a separate post as it got pretty long. I think that was the most impressive part of Si Satchanalai.
I was leaving the temple on my old rusty rental bike and believed riding up the small ramp nearby would be straightforward. However, that assumption proved entirely incorrect! The moment pressure was applied to the pedal, it snapped completely. The plastic casing from the pedal fell directly onto the ground. It worth noting that this was merely the first temple on the itinerary, leaving several more sites to visit by bicycle! After gathering all the scattered springs and plastic pieces, I tucked them safely into my bag. I decided to address the damage later and continued onward using just the single working pedal, whilst gently nudging the broken crank arm with my foot to maintain momentum.
Wat Chao Chan
Wat Chom Chuen Archeological Site
I was going further on the road in Si Satchanalai and I stumbled on Wat Chom Chuen. The entrance to the site was again ฿100, so that combo for ฿220 probably would have been worth it. The only tourists I’ve encountered was here – a small group of 10 -12 Japanese tourists. One of them was very eager to talk, though his English was very limited, so our conversation ended quite quickly.
The above-ground ruins are a masterclass in ancient engineering, built primarily from laterite—a heavy, iron-rich, reddish rock that was the concrete of its day. The star of the show is a prominent, bell-shaped chedi (stupa) heavily influenced by Sri Lankan Buddhist art. If you look closely at its base, you can still spot remnants of delicate, sculpted stucco lotus petals that survived centuries of weathering. Architectural surveys suggest this laterite chedi was actually built directly on top of an even older Khmer-era foundation, showing how layers of empires literally stacked themselves on top of one another.
This east-facing temple complex features a six-bay rectangular laterite vihara complete with an extended front porch. Furthermore, its base reflects a classic overturned lotus design before connecting to a twelve-cornered indented mandapa built from the same sturdy stone. Right in front of the chedi, visitors can walk through the hauntingly beautiful pillars of what was once this grand assembly hall. Additionally, these massive columns still feature the square socket holes where heavy wooden roof beams were fitted hundreds of years ago. The hall guides your eyes towards the well-preserved mandapa housing a striking Buddha image framed by an elegant arched entrance, depicting the subduing Mara posture. Moreover, small niches adorn the front of the mandapa, whilst the rear wall accommodates a separate niche housing a seated Buddha figure. Photographs captured in 1997 serve as the primary records of these features. In addition, remaining stucco decorations along the outer mandapa wall highlight clear Lanna artistic influences. Elaborate stucco work depicting architectural clusters remains visible across the pediment area.
The main bell-shaped stupa rests upon a square laterite foundation. Specifically, central niches feature prominently across each side of the lower base facing all cardinal points. Historians estimate the origins of the site between the 14th and 16th centuries A.D. based on these structural elements. These structures perfectly capture the artistic peak of Si Satchanalai, which served as the proud sister city and royal seat to ancient Sukhothai. As a result, the architectural design bridges the Sukhothai and early Ayutthaya periods while retaining a strong Lanna influence.
The photograph below shows the surviving laterite structure located at Wat Chom Chuen within Si Satchanalai Historical Park. Additionally, the masonry features a central raised pedestal surrounded by a low stone boundary wall. Furthermore, the carved laterite blocks display an overturned lotus pattern around the base that reflects classic Sukhothai architectural design. These durable stone foundations have survived for centuries despite the collapse of the original wooden and stucco superstructure.
Archaeologists identify this area as one of the secondary shrines or auxiliary buildings situated alongside the main vihara. Specifically, the small platform likely held a sacred Buddha image or served as a subsidiary chedi base during active worship. The clear layout offers valuable insight into how the entire temple grounds were arranged during the 14th to 16th centuries. The remaining stonework continues to highlight the skilled craftsmanship of ancient Thai masons.
Wat Chom Chuen Archeological Site Museum
What truly makes Wat Chom Chuen a must-visit destination, however, is hidden under your feet. During excavations in the 1990s, archaeologists dug beneath the temple foundations and hit historical jackpot: a massive, multi-layered ancient cemetery. They uncovered 15 remarkably intact human skeletons alongside primitive iron tools, vibrant glass beads, agate stones, and coarse pottery fragments dating all the way back to the 3rd and 4th centuries.
This means that long before it was a Buddhist temple, the site was a thriving prehistoric community. The area transitioned from an early settlement into a Dvaravati-period trade post before finally becoming the sacred site we see today. The best part? The museum was built directly over the excavation pits over the open burial trenches themselves. Rather than moving the findings to a distant gallery, archaeologists preserved the grid in situ, allowing you to look down into the earth at the actual 1,500-year-old skeletons right where they were laid to rest. Seeing these intact human remains—still arranged with their ancient pottery, iron tools, and glass bead jewellery exactly as they were discovered—creates a profoundly surreal contrast with the Buddhist ruins standing just outside the glass windows. It is a rare, hauntingly beautiful experience that bridges the gap between prehistoric life and medieval spirituality in a single glance.
Ruins of Wat Chao Chan
Dating back even further than the Sukhothai period, this Wat Chao Chan site originated around the 13th century A.D. alongside the flourishing Bayon-style Khmer culture. Additionally, it stands proudly as the northernmost Khmer tower discovered in Thailand. Massive blocks of laterite formed the core structure, which craftsmen originally covered with a smooth lime plaster coating. Furthermore, the lowest foundation displays an elegant motif of overturned and upturned lotuses. The main chamber features a functional front entryway complemented by decorative false doors on the remaining sides. Moreover, the upper structure ascends in striking, diminishing tiers with indented corners that lead gracefully up towards a pinnacle sculpted like a blooming lotus.
During the later Sukhothai period, locals raised the surrounding ground level, which ultimately buried the original lowest base underground. In addition, builders added a grand vihara directly to the front of the complex. A dedicated mandapa was constructed on the northern side of the tower to enshrine a large Buddha image as the complex transitioned into an active Buddhist temple.
Standing right before me was the temple’s crowning feature: a massive laterite sanctuary tower that proudly showcased its Khmer-inspired architecture. Furthermore, the stepped, corn-cob-shaped tower rose dramatically behind the raised stone platform of an old assembly hall. I walked around the platform and noticed weathered laterite cores of ancient Buddha statues still standing on their original pedestals. Time had completely eroded their outer plaster layers, leaving behind striking stone silhouettes that looked almost ethereal in the dappled sunlight. Wandering through this forgotten sanctuary felt like stepping straight into a hidden layer of Thailand’s history.
I hopped on a bike and I contunied in Si Satchanalai Historical park
Site number 32 in Si Satchanalai Historical park
These minor ruins, that has no name assigned, but instead are called site number 32, represent the structural foundation and weathered pillars of an ancient vihara (assembly hall or worship hall), which served as a focal point for communal prayer, teaching, and meditation within the Si Satchanalai Historical Park. The raised platform and vertical columns are constructed entirely from laterite, a local, iron-rich clayey rock that hardens when exposed to air and was favored by Sukhothai-era builders for its immense durability. Historically, these stout stone pillars did not stand open to the elements as they do now; they originally supported a massive wooden roof structure and tiled covering that decayed centuries ago.
Wat Kok Singka Ram at Si Satchanalai Historical park
Wat Kok Singkharam dates back to the transitional Sukhothai-Ayutthaya era and sits tucked within the ancient town walls of Chaliang, roughly one kilometre east of central Si Satchanalai. Additionally, the temple grounds follow a clear rectangular layout that faces directly towards the east. Detailed laterite walls featuring decorative upturned and overturned lotus bases enclose the northern and western borders, whilst the eastern boundary shares its perimeter with the main city wall itself. Prominently positioned at the front of the complex stands a solid laterite vihara constructed in an early Ayutthaya style.
The main hall features a sturdy build complemented by a small entrance porch at the front. Furthermore, narrow balustreed wall (thin, confined barrier composed of a row of small vertical posts or pillars) openings designed for light ventilation originally had a delicate lime plaster work crafted to mimic traditional wooden frames. Directly behind the vihara (solid laterite assembly hall), three principal bell-shaped stupas in the Sukhothai tradition sit aligned together on a single shared foundation. Historians believe builders modified and connected these bases around the 16th century A.D.
This period coincided with Si Satchanalai falling under the rule of the Ayutthaya Kingdom, which heavily influenced the design of the main stupas to mirror the famous trio at Wat Phra Sri Sanphet in Ayutthaya. Moreover, another small hall situated in the north-eastern area of the temple grounds houses a classic Sukhothai-style bell chedi.
At some point I decided to climb the small hill on the side of the ruins and what I saw blew my mind! A spectacular view of green and lush fields, with palms and hill peak.
Wat Nang Phaya
Wat Nang Phaya dates back to the early Ayutthaya period around the early 16th century A.D., holding a prominent spot along the main historical axis of Si Satchanalai. Although no official records document its founding, its massive scale hints at its immense past importance. Additionally, King Rama VI celebrated the site in his famous literary work Theo Muang Phra Ruang, praising its exceptionally fine stucco craftsmanship.
Sturdy laterite walls enclose the main assembly hall (vihara), which originally featured an ornate wooden roof framed by earthenware tiles. Furthermore, rowed baluster openings line the structure to let in soft daylight. Intricate exterior stucco motifs adorn the outer walls, displaying clear artistic influences from both Lanna and Chinese traditions.
These historic plaster patterns continue to inspire local artisans today, bringing substantial income to the Si Satchanalai community. Local craftspeople adapt the intricate wall motifs into handcrafted gold jewellery, globally celebrated as “the antique gold of Si Satchanalai”.
Directly behind the hall, a central bell-shaped stupa rests on a high base that once featured decorative stucco elephants similar to those at nearby Wat Chang Lom. Moreover, four distinct niches project outwards from each cardinal direction around the bell section. The overall design closely mirrors the iconic principal chedi at Wat Phra Sri Sanphet in Ayutthaya, which was constructed during the same vibrant era.
There is some augmented reality App sign at the site. I didn’t try it on site as I had limited data to download. However, when I tried at home it didn’t work at all. It seems a bit outdated and possibly not maintained anymore. You can checkout their website here.
Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai
The grand Buddhist monastery of Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai sits directly along the principal axis of the ancient town of Si Satchanalai.
Historical records mention this site across two distinct sections of the Northern Historic Chronicle, detailing the royal dedication to the complex and the esteemed precedence of its resident monks.
Laid out in a clean rectangular plan, the entire monastery complex faces towards the south-east. Furthermore, the principal ancient monuments within the grounds include a round stupa, though only its tiered set of pedestals survives today.
Directly adjacent stands the main vihara, or assembly hall, designed as a open six-room building completely free of interior partition walls. Inside this spacious hall, visitors can still observe the original base of the main Buddha image along with the raised seat reserved for monks.
Ramnarog Gate
The historical Ramnarong Gate sits directly along the south-eastern town wall, located just to the south of Wat Nang Phaya.
Constructed on a grand scale from sturdy laterite blocks, the gate features a foundation shaped like an overturned lotus, complemented by outer frames adorned with twenty elegant indented corners. Furthermore, the impressive entrance spans 3.5 metres across and reaches a height of 4 metres.
Near the middle section of the inner doorframes, vertical slots measuring 1.5 metres wide were carved out to house heavy wooden door structures. Moving outward from these doors leads directly onto a paved walkway, bounded by curbs made of pressed laterite and soil.
This pathway extends toward a large rectangular fort measuring 18 by 22 metres with a height of 3 metres. While the outer walls were carved straight into the underlying shale bed, the remaining sides consist of more roughly laid laterite. Additionally, ancient moats and serene ponds surround the entire fortification.
Interestingly, King Rama VI documented the site during his royal visit to Sawankhalok in his literary work, Theo Muang Phra Roung, noting that the ancient town possessed four primary gates, with the south-eastern entry officially named Ramnarong Gate. Archaeologists date the construction of both the gate and its accompanying fort to prior to 1474 AD.
Wat Lak Muang (Wat Lhuk Muang)
Constructed during the Sukhothai period, Wat Lhuk Muang stands within the historic town walls of Si Satchanalai, situated very close to the royal grand palace.
Facing toward the south-east, the site features a five-bay assembly hall (wihan) positioned directly in front of a modest mandapa. Furthermore, the principal stupa displays a square, tiered design with twenty indented corners, reflecting strong artistic influences from Khmer architecture.
Decorative triangular moulding lines adorn the outer chamber walls, while the intricate stucco work closely resembles the patterns found on the main stupa of Wat Si Sawai, which originates from the same era.
Interestingly, when King Rama VI visited the area in 1907, he recorded his observations in his literary work, Theo Muang Phra Roung (Visiting the Land of Phra Ruang). He suggested that this structure served as neither a typical Buddhist monastery nor a traditional Hindu shrine, proposing instead that it might have functioned as a spiritual site dedicated to local deities or a shrine housing the city pillar.
I had no time to go to the temple, so just a back picture of central prang.
Wat Chedi Ched Thaeo (Thaew) / Wat Chedi Chet Thao
Wat Chedi Ched Thaeo is a significant and extensive temple complex situated within the ancient town of Si Satchanalai.
Within the grounds, 33 stupas are arranged in a deliberate layout aligned with traditional cosmological principles. Furthermore, the fine craftsmanship across these varied monuments provided evidence for Prince Damrong Rajanubhab to conclude that the location served as a royal cemetery for members of the Sukhothai dynasty.
The stupas across the site fall into three distinct architectural forms:
- Lotus-bud Stupas: Exhibiting slender proportions characteristic of Sukhothai art, these monuments rise from a square base to an octagonal mid-section that supports a spire embellished with stucco lotus petals.
- Prasat-style Monuments: Defined by square structures adorned with multi-tiered roofs and stepped wall projections, these shrines reflect stylistic influences imported from regional traditions such as Lanna and Khmer art.
- Bell-shaped Stupas: Featuring inverted circular domes set above decorative base rings, these structures are crowned with funnel-shaped spires.
Historians believe this bell-shaped architectural form originated from ancient Indian burial mounds topped with umbrella tiers, connecting the complex back to early Buddhist funerary traditions.
Wat Chang Lom
Wat Chang Lom stands as a large temple located in the centre of Si Satchanalai, built during the Sukhothai period or around the late 14th to the early 15th century AD. It was presumed to be built by King Ramkamhaeng in 1285 together with the excavation of the relics of the Lord Buddha for worship for one month and six days and returned to place in the centre of the town with a stupa to cover and the wall surrounding. Furthermore, it took a total of nine years for construction.
The principal stupa is in bell shape and placed on the high base that was decorated around with the elephant sculptures. On the upper base found twenty of niches enshrined with the stucco Buddha images in subduing Mara posture. The bell part is on the overturned-lotus design base to support the square throne. Additionally, the pole of the umbrella is decorated with the bas-relief of the Buddha image in the walking posture.
The building principle of the surrounding elephant stupa was originally from Sri Lanka since the 3rd century AD and might influence on Sukhothai kingdom around the 14th century AD from the religious communication in the reign of King Maha Dhammaracha Litai. Finally, the concept on the surrounding elephant might come from the indication that elephant is an auspicious animal that takes the role to support the Buddhism.
Unfortunately, I was running out of time and I didn’t get to go inside. Luckily, I had good zoom camera, so I could take some pictures at least.
Wat Some Siew (Someseew)
Oriented toward the north-east, monument no. 17 – Wat Somseew consists primarily of an assembly hall (vihara) where only a rectangular laterite base and extended porches at both the front and back survive.
Directly behind this hall stands the principal stupa, which features a square laterite base alongside a rectangular altar positioned at its front side. Dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries AD, this sacred site belongs firmly to the Sukhothai period.
Wat Wi Han Noi (Wat Wihan Noy)
Oriented toward the north-east, Wat Vihan Noy features a laterite assembly hall (vihara) built to a three-bay size, where only the overturned lotus base remains.
Directly behind this assembly hall stands a laterite mandapa complete with a front-facing niche. This particular niche is presumed to have featured a sharp-curved, laterite-made roof, similar in design to other mandapas discovered within the ancient town walls. Furthermore, a subordinate stupa sits at the rear of the mandapa, though only its square laterite base survives today.
Dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries AD, this religious complex belongs firmly to the Sukhothai period.
Wat Thung Setthi
Built during the Sukhothai period, Wat Thung Setthi is located outside the town wall in front of Ramnarong gate. The temple faces the north-east and features a rectangular layout. Furthermore, the enclosing temple wall is made of closely laid laterite bars, with entrances positioned in the middle of all four sides.
Inside the complex stands the principal vihara, designed in an open hall style measuring six bays in size without any walls. A three-bay porch sits at the front of the vihara, supported by square pillars. Additionally, archaeologists have uncovered a two-level lower base belonging to a Buddha image.
At the rear of the vihara stands the bell-shaped principal stupa. The base of the bell section is decorated with an overturned lotus design, while the lowest base features a Buddha image niche facing each direction. Finally, four subordinate stupas also occupy the site, though only their lowest bases survive today, making it impossible to identify their original architectural forms.
Cycling to the Bus Stop
It was 4:23pm already and I was cycling back in a hurry to make to the bus, which was supposed to leave 4:45 pm. I still had to drop off the broken bike and I couldn’t pedal fast that rusty old bike, as one of the pedals was broken.
Eventually at 4:36pm I was already at that big entrance gate and headed to drop off my bike.
Bus Ride Back to Sukhothai
I returned my bike to the shop with that broken pedal. I was worried that they might charge me extra for the broken pedal, but I didn’t try to hide it or anything. I immediately showed the guy the broken pedal and returned the broken parts (pedal and the spring) that I have collected and said “It was old and it has broken”. He just nodded the head and didn’t say anything. He didn’t ask any compensation or anything. I felt guilty and quite bad, so I bought a bottle of water and another beer from him and left him the change (around ฿30). He was so happy! The guy immediately sat down to repair the bike.
It was around 4:40 pm and I was already waiting for the bus on the other side of the road. I wasn’t really sure where the actual bus stop was. I drank the beer while waiting and disposed a can in a bin at a nearby shop. The owners immediately came and collected the can. I guess they recycle them for money.
After few minutes it was 4:45 pm, but no bus in sight. I was getting a bit nervous that I have missed it. The sun was quiet hot too and I was trying to find shade to hide, but minute later I realised that they might not see me if I stand further from the road, so I got back to the road. 5 min later I saw the bus! The same bus from the museum. The same conductor opened the doors, I paid for the ticket and this time I got a seat! In fact the bus was quite empty and only me with couple other passengers in the entire bus.
Cold Chang Beer to Wrap Up the Day
An hour later I was back to Sukhothai. Some local orange cat which I saw in the morning too have greeted me in the station, I walked through the stones laid back in the grass from the station back to my accommodation, which took me like 2 minutes. It was still so hot, so I got another large Chang beer for only ฿60 and sat outside in content of managing to get to Si Satchanalai and back. I was really scared of getting stuck in there, but all was good.
Oh, how I wish that I had at least a full day here! This place is truly magical! Empty temples, no tourists and just local people. Of course, later in the day I did see some tourists in the temples, but still quite empty. I must admit, it was one of the most difficult places to get to in Thailnd (well at least for now from my experience), but it was worth it! Unfortunately, making any changes to my itinerary meant I need to skip something else and losing some of the accommodation or even flight reservation. I truly think, it was one of my most favourite places I’ve visited in entire Thailand! I’ve seen just a part of the historical part and just got a taste of it and I believe there is so much more to see according to the map. Also, that authentic kindness in the bus and Si Satchanalai by local people was really heart warming. Maybe one day, I will come back here to stay a bit longer and document it all. Also, if you follow the map it is a bit confusing, so do study before coming here as you might end up going in circles.
Dinner in Sukhothai
Finally, after a quick shower, which wasn’t necessary as I was sweating as much if not more just moments after. Anyway, I went to a place called, Ban Kluai – Left green foodstall, just round the corner from the apartment. the dishes were very cheap there ($60 – ฿6100), though the restaurant (if I can call it that way) didn’t look very appetising. However, the food turned out to be very delicious! Of course, where is food, there are also some hungry cats! I captured couple of them.
Tips for Si Satchanalai
- It is totally worth coming to Si Satchanalai even for a day trip. It is full of history, beautiful ruins and not many tourists.
- If you are taking a bus, do make sure you have a bus ride back and check for return time in the station before leaving and do ask in the return time in the bus itself as they will know more precise time. Only tow buses a day!!!
- Research where you can rent a bicycle as it is a small town after all. You can try the place I posted once you get off the bus.
- I would totally recommend staying couple days here as this town was very authentic, people were kind and very friendly it felt very different from other touristic places in Thailand.
- Watch the video below if you want to get an impression of Si Satchanalai. It is in Thai, but just watch it with English subtitles and you will see how beautiful it is. This is from the official site audio guides on Youtube and since it is in Thai you probably never would find it otherwise.
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