Let me start with what a pain is to get from New Sukhothai to Si Satchanalai (easiest way to remember the name is “Such and a lie”, which worked for me)! First, the only option I found is only from New Sukhothai. Second, Si Satchanalai doesn’t have railway connection, the same way as Sukhothai doesn’t have one. This means first you have to get to New Sukhothai by bus (or taxi) from Phitsanulok or from Chiang Mai and from there to go to Si Satchanalai. You can book private taxi transfers through GetYourGuide too.
Table of Contents
The Pain of Getting to Si Satchanalai
The cheapest way to get to Si Satchanalai Historical Site, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is by public bus from Sukothai bus terminal (new Sukothai) going to Uttaradit, that stops at Si Satchanalai. However, the bus leaves only twice a day: 9:30 am or 12:30 pm. Ticket price ฿68. Return times at 1:30 pm and 4:30 pm, but do clarify that on the day as they might be late. Strangely enough, the other day I also saw this bus leaving to Uttaradit at 7:00 am. Maybe that one was just an express bus and doesn’t stop in Si Satchanalai. Also, if you are staying in “Old Sukhothai” you will need to travel to New Sukhothai (Sukhothai bus terminal) and get a bus from there. Once you arrive to Si Satchanalai, you will need to rent a bike as it is quite a big place to walk on foot and I do recommend staying at least one night there!
Another option would be a taxi, but taxi through would cost around ฿800-900 (if you’re lucky to bargain). The poster in the accommodation said ฿1200 for private taxi and taxi tour from ฿1500 to ฿2200 (£33-£45) depending how long tour you wish (1-3h or 4-5h). I would guess that’s what all taxi drivers will ask you for driving you there, but also make sure to make the arrangement of getting back as I didn’t see a single taxi in Si Satchanalai! One more option of booking a private taxi via 12go.asia, but that said even more – ฿2300 (~£45)! I guess it is more luxurious one! I mean the taxi prices are not insane given the taxi prices in USA and European countries also if you wish more comfort, then that’s the way to go. However, if you are on the budget or want to experience the fun of local transport, that might be not for you.
Bus From Phitsanulok to New Sukhothai
I left Phitsanulok at 8:00am and got to my accommodation in Sukhothai at 9:30 am, which was very close to Sukhothai bus terminal. I was staying at RueangSriSiRi Guest House. It was pretty decent given it cost me only ฿480 (~£11) for two nights! My rooms wasn’t ready yet, so I decided to drop my bag and go to explore Sukhothai and get some food, but about that in another post.
I got back to my guest house at 11:30 am and the room was ready. It was quite big, given I paid only ฿480 (£10) and it had a working aircon! I dropped my things and I was thinking to head to Old Sukhothai, but it was too late in the day and the next bus was only at 2:00 pm or 4:30 pm. I missed 8:30 am bus. It was not worth it to go at 2:00 pm and then to come back at 6:30 pm. I would have only 3 hours or so. So I decided to try my luck to go to Si Satchanalai as there was a bus at 12:30 pm.
I booked a bus at 12:30 pm for ฿68. I am pretty sure the lady in the booking office misunderstood me when I said “Si Satchanalai” as she said ฿105, but when I showed on a map the name of the town she changed the price to ฿69. Always show the name! She also crossed over the time 11:45pm on my ticket that she printed and wrote a different time by hand 12:30 pm. Good luck reading that ticket, but date, departure and destination seemed valid at least. It also includes ฿ 200,000 (~£2450) insurance and maximum coverage of ฿500 for your bag, which is like £11, enough to cover one t-shirt.
The Uncomfortable Bus Ride from New Sukhothai to Si Satchanalai
I arrived around 8 minutes to departure at 12:30 pm and a bus was already standing in the bus stop and the bus was completely full! Even though my ticket had a seat assigned, but nobody cares about that! My advice, you should just go inside and take a seat if the bus door is open and also come earlier. It might be also because it was Saturday and people going home. Almost half of the bus was Thailand’s military personnel travelling somewhere. I was the only foreigner in the entire bus!
First, I got a seat in the very back. That’s the only steat that was empty as the bus was completely full. However, that massive air conditioning module above (it was somewhat working, but not as well as modern ones) meant I had to bow my head very low to be able to fit there! Keeping my head down for awhile was giving me the neck pain.
In the end, one Thai lady saw me, probably the tallest and biggest man in the bus, struggling and offered to swap the seats on one of the disks in the luggage area behind the seats and just in front of me. At least I could stretch my neck now and didn’t have to suffer in that crippled position anymore. It wasn’t the most comfortable seat, but definitely better than that under aircon seat. Also, I’ve noticed that a lady in front of me was sitting alone, but she was taking up two seats, as she decided to stretch her leg on one of the seats.
Ok, I am taking back what I said about the precious bus to Sukhothai that it was a bit run down. This one was probably taken from a museum! Half of the handles on the seats are missing. On a bright side, at least it was bearable inside of the bus, as aircon kept it at around 25-26°C (77°F). Also, lets talk about those padded ceilings. Is it for the tall people like me not to hit the ceiling or is to transport people to the asylum? Just joking.
Funny enough, at the end of the bus there was a sign to fasten your seatbelt as you can get a fine ฿5000. What seatbelt? Especially when I was sitting on the disk and not even on a proper seat! I mean the sign was put in 2017 and I do agree those buses should have a seatbelt as we are going in the urban areas and who knows what could happen.
I do see the seat belts hanging under the seats, but not a single person is strapped in. Oh and yes, funny enough my backpack (the one on the top) was green colour, almost the same colour as all those military guys had it that pile.
It was only one hour to destination. That was my only solace, while sitting a bit uncomfortably. That didn’t last long though, as someone started eating some fried meat. The entire bus had a strange smell now and not the pleasant one.
The bus arrived 20 min late to Si Satchanalai. Few minutes before I left the bus, the conductor was worried for me when I was going back. It was really sweet! He was trying to tell me something int Thai, but with no luck. I as trying to communicate in non verbal language, but that didn’t work either. Luckily, a girl helped me to translate what he was saying and I told him that it was coming back today. Then he was saying something again in Thai and the girl translated 4:00 pm, butt then he corrected himself and said at 4:30 pm to be at the bus stop. So I typed on my calculator 4.30 and he came back with a notepad and wrote at 4:45 pm, even 15 min later. “Perfect!”, I thought “I have more time in Si Satchanalai”.
The bus stopped in a very unexpected place just at some random spot by the road. No bus stop sign or schedule, literally nothing! The conductor pointed with a finger to one of the shops and said “bicycle”. That was helpful! Thank you!
Renting a Bike in Si Satchanalai
I asked the owner if they rent bikes. Both a woman and man spoke only Thai. Somehow we agreed it is ฿70 for the bike. They also sold me a small beer. I guess those alcohol selling hours don’t work here? ฿40 for small Chang beer. I was very thirsty and instantly downed the can of that cold beer on the spot!
The first bike they gave me had a flat tire, so he took a second one out from his dark workshop and while he was taking it out he knocked the a big box with bottles. He started swearing and yelling in Thai. I guessed he was swearing junging from the tone of his voice. I guess I could guess swearing in any language! He was throwing those bottles into boxes as if he was having a tantrum. This is the first time I saw an angry Thai person and in Thailand! His wife was saying something to him. I guess something “to calm down”.
I asked for a lock and the guy said “you don’t need it”. I was surprised. Apparently, it is very safe in here as opposed to Ayutthaya I was told to always lock it. Well the bike was quite rusty and old, that is probably another reason why nobody would take it.
So I put my mobile in the bike’s cart with the Google map navigation on and I was going to the archeological site through the big gate.
Loosing My Mobile Phone
I was happily riding my bike, following the navigation on my phone, safely laying in a wire basket in front of my bike. Just a minute later, right before the bridge, I noticed my phone was no longer in the basket! I felt my heart pumping blood to my head and I franticly started looking for it around me and on the ground. I turn my head back and I see the guy running towards me, holding my mobile in his hand to give it back to me. Wow! I was really impressed. It seems the phone slipped through the mesh of the basket and dropped to the ground and I also ran over it with my bike! In London if I would have lost the phone, the guy would run the other way, well in all fairness they just snatch it from your hands while they ride the electric bikes. So yeah I was very surprised, bu the kindness! The entire screen protector was shattered! Luckily, it was just the screen protector! I felt so happy to recover my phone and I just kept pushing forward.
Now I had to cross that scary bridge. I saw motorcycles passing and the bridge was swinging to all the sides like a swing!
Entrance to Si Satchanalai Archeological Site
I crossed the bridge with no trouble. There was the entrance to the Si Satchanalai Archeological site. It was really loosely guarded as there was no one at the entrance and if I would have just passed it, no one would have stopped me, but since I asked for directions at a booth I saw on my left, they turned out to be the place that sells the tickets. They old guy in the booth looked so happy and surprised to see me! I was probably the only tourist visitor there or maybe because he didn’t have to chase me.
I paid ฿50 for the entrance ticket for Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan temple. Then I jumped back on my mike and was heading to that temple, which was very close by. It was the temple I saw when researching what to see in Si Satchanalai. Later I found out, that I could have bought a combined ticket for ฿220, which could be a small save if you are planning to see all of the paid temples in Si Satchanalai. Anyway, it is like £1 save, can’t even get an a beer for that, though in Thailand I could eat a lunch for that!
Once I reached my first temple in Si Satchanalai I just left my bike by the entrance to the temple. Slightly, worrying that someone could take it, but I really din’t want to drag it with me as it was quite heavy. I looked around and I was all alone here anyway. There was no ticket checking, no control, just wide open gate inviting to explore inside. While sightseeing I kept checking if my bike was still standing. I guess that’s London trauma again, as here it would be swopped in seconds, even if it is locked sometime! Well maybe not this rusty old piece of junk (there is a reason for saying that, keep reading). Later I got a bit more relaxed and left it there on its own while exploring Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat temple.
History of Si Satchanalai
People have lived in this naturally fortified spot by the Yom River since at least the 3rd or 4th century. It was a Dvaravati town before the Khmer people arrived in the late 11th or early 12th century. The Sukhothai Kingdom gained freedom from the Khmer in 1237 and Sukhothai kingdom established in 1238. They made this area their second city, naming it Si Satchanalai and was ruled by the crown prince Sri Indraditya (also known as Bang Klang Hao or Indrapatindraditya). The Sukhothai people expanded west, building almost all the old temples you see today. They changed a small Khmer outpost into a major centre for religion, art, and trade. The Ramkhamhaeng Inscription, from 1292, names Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang as “Sri Ratanadjatu.”
The Ayutthaya Kingdom took over this region in the 15th century. They changed the city’s name to Sawankhalok. Even though Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang was no longer in the city’s main area, both Sukhothai and Ayutthaya kept it as a very important temple. However, eight years after the Ayutthaya Kingdom fell in 1767, King Rama 1 (who ruled from 1782-1809) moved Sawankhalok city 15km south to its current spot. This left Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang and the rest of the old city in ruins.
Ubosot (Wat Phra Prang)
Before entering to Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang, I stopped at the newly built temple called Ubosot.
You can see a stone object in front of this Thai temple in the image below, which is called a sema stone (also known as a bai sema in Thai).
Sema stones are the boundary markers that define the consecrated area of a bot (ordination hall) in a Thai Buddhist temple. The area enclosed by these stones is considered sacred and is where important monastic rituals, such as the ordination of monks, take place.
These stones are often shaped like a stylized leaf or a boundary marker, and they are typically placed at the eight cardinal and sub-cardinal points around the bot, with a ninth stone often buried beneath the main Buddha image inside. They can be simple or elaborately carved, and in the image you provided, the sema stone appears to be gilded or covered in gold leaf as an act of veneration (a physical or outward gesture that shows deep respect).
Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat temple
Next I wanted to see a stunning Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat temple, which I wrote in a separate post as it got pretty long. I think that was the most impressive part of Si Satchanalai.
I was leaving the temple on my old rusty rental bike and believed riding up the small ramp nearby would be straightforward. However, that assumption proved entirely incorrect! The moment pressure was applied to the pedal, it snapped completely. The plastic casing from the pedal fell directly onto the ground. It worth noting that this was merely the first temple on the itinerary, leaving several more sites to visit by bicycle! After gathering all the scattered springs and plastic pieces, I tucked them safely into my bag. I decided to address the damage later and continued onward using just the single working pedal, whilst gently nudging the broken crank arm with my foot to maintain momentum.
Wat Chom Chuen Archeological Site
I was going further on the road in Si Satchanalai and I stumbled on Wat Chom Chuen. The entrance to the site was again ฿100, so that combo for ฿220 probably would have been worth it. The only tourists I’ve encountered was here – a small group of 10 -12 Japanese tourists. One of them was very eager to talk, though his English was very limited, so our conversation ended quite quickly.
Ancient underground ruins are impressive structures with great engineering techniques. The whole compound consists mainly of laterite rock which is heavy red colored stone rich in iron and worked as concrete does in these days. Main structure consists of bell shaped chedi monument, inspired by Sri Lanka’s Buddhist culture. If observing very carefully it is possible to notice small pieces of the sculpture of the petals of lotus flower stucco decoration at the bottom of this chedi.
According to architectural researches this laterite chedi was constructed above the ancient Khmer structure foundations showing how different empires literally build on the ruins of previous cultures.
Eastern facing Temple Complex consists of rectangular six bays laterite vihara, having an extension front porch. Its base demonstrates the inverted lotus shape prior to connection with twelve cornered mandapa which is created of solid stones. Right in front of Chedi tourists may admire the pillars of the assembly hall, which creates an atmosphere of eeriness, as it seems to me.
These huge pillars possess sockets for putting heavy roof wooden beams. All assembly hall is oriented towards mandapa, preserving the figure of Buddha sitting in particular posture called subduing Mara. On the front façade mandapa possesses some niches and at the backside there is another separate niche containing Buddha statue. Photos taken in 1997 constitute main evidence for above mentioned facts regarding architecture of this site. Also stuccoes preserved on outer mandapa walls clearly demonstrate art styles of Lanna culture. Architectural cluster decoration in form of pediment still may be seen.
This bell-shaped stupa stands right on the foundation built with laterite stones forming a square structure. Each face contains central niches representing directions North, South, East and West sides. Based on these architectural features historians assume that this historical monument dates back to 14th to 16th centuries AD. These monuments illustrate the best example of architecture developed during Si Satchanalai period that became sister capital of ancient kingdom Sukhothai. Therefore, such architectural style combines both Sukhothai era and early Ayutthaya era with significant Lanna influence.
In a below picture you may see a laterite construction preserved at Wat Chom Chuen site within the Si Satchanalai Historical Park premises. Apart from that the construction consists of a high pedestal encircled by low boundary wall made from stones. Moreover, the laterite blocks are decorated with an overturned lotus floral motive at their base demonstrating typical features of Sukhothai style. Despite destruction of the superstructure above consisting of wood and stucco works these stone foundations stood the test of time for many centuries.
According to the archaeologists, this spot belongs to a number of secondary shrines, auxiliary constructions placed close to main building – the vihara temple. In general terms it seems that the small altar was used to place a holy statue of Buddha there or even acted as foundation pedestal for additional chedi. The whole plan is quite informative for reconstruction of the overall arrangement of this temple compound dating back to the period between 14-16 century.
Wat Chom Chuen Archeological Site Museum
However, what makes the Wat Chom Chuen unique place to visit hides literally beneath the tourists’ feet! In 1990 archaeologists started excavation works right below the foundation of the temple and discovered something incredible. It was enormous burial ground consisting of several layers of graves that belong to 3rd-4th centuries. Inside were 15 excellently preserved skeletons of the ancient people accompanied by the iron utensils, beautiful glass beads, agate stones, and pottery remains.
What makes the place unique is the fact that the temple existed thousands of years ago even without Buddhism! First of all it was prehistoric settlement; later in the history it became trade center of Dvaravati period; and finally developed into a religious site.
The coolest thing in there, actually, was museum located literally above the pits of the graves! You don’t need to bring all those findings somewhere to another building as galleries usually do! Instead everything is left in its natural state forming squares of pits. What we could observe in real time were original skeletons of humans which were buried here thousand five hundred years ago! Even more amazing fact was that we were seeing the bones as they appeared initially! The artifacts included ancient ceramics, metal tools and even glass jewelery! All this stuff was placed close to each other!
The impression becomes very strange indeed, considering that outside of glass panes we could see Buddhist temples standing peacefully!
Ruins of Wat Chao Chan
This Wat Chao Chan temple has its origin even earlier – the 13th century AD, when the culture of Bayon style Khmers was prospering. Moreover, the temple became the northernmost Khmer tower found in Thailand! Main structure consisted of huge laterites stones covered initially with smooth layer of limy plaster. The lowest base showed the nice pattern of upended and upside down lotuses. The central room included practical entrance door and false doors for decoration purposes only. Moreover, the upper construction includes ascending diminishing tiers with indented corners leading to the peak decorated by the image of blooming lotus.
As time passed during the Sukhothai period, people have built new foundations raising the ground level thus burying the initial lowest base under soil layers. Also, they have constructed the impressive vihara building right before this tower complex. On the northern side of the tower mandapa was erected in order to accommodate big statue of Buddha as this complex transformed to become actively used Buddhist temple.
Here it stands right before my eyes – the main building structure of the temple. It is huge laterite sanctuary tower, showing clear Khmer architectural style. Moreover, it rises high over the stone platform where there used to be the old assembly building. I went around the platform and saw several Buddha statues made from laterite. Outer plaster layer wore out due to time exposure and only stone silhouette remained. It looks very mysterious with the play of light falling through leaves.
Just walking among ruins makes me feel like being inside Thai history!
I hopped on a bike and I contunied in Si Satchanalai Historical park
Site number 32 in Si Satchanalai Historical park
The ruins without any names just labeled as site number 32. They consist of foundation structure and corroded pillars of the ancient vihara temple building used as a place for community prayers, lessons and meditations in Si Satchanalai Historical Park.
Foundation structure and pillars consist solely of laterite – a local type of clay mineral rock containing iron oxide that gets extremely strong once it dries out under open sky conditions. That material was preferred during the period of the Sukhothai dynasty construction works due to the incredible durability.
Historically those pillars were not exposed directly to the weather conditions, because originally those pillars carried huge wooden constructions covered with tiles which collapsed many centuries ago. Unfortunately I cannot imagine how grandiose it should look like!
Wat Kok Singka Ram at Si Satchanalai Historical park
Wat Kok Singkharam is situated inside of ancient city of Chaliang, Si Satchanalai. It belongs to Sukhothai – Ayutthaya transitional period. In fact this temple is located approximately one km to the East from central part of Si Satchanalai! Rectangular area faces towards East direction. It means that the temple area is surrounded by two laterite decorated with upturned and overturned lotuses. Eastern side border coincides with main city wall. In the beginning you will find the vihara (assembly hall). This building dates back to Early Ayutthaya period!
As usual this building is strong and solid built. In front there is small porch entrance with nice architectural construction in terms of ventilation holes. These small openings had beautiful designs resembling traditional wood constructions. Behind the vihara building you will find three prominent bell shaped stupas dating back to Sukhothai tradition. According to historians, the builders have modified and joined bases of these structures during the 16th A.D.!
The construction of temples belongs to the epoch when Si Satchanalai becomes part of Ayutthaya kingdom. Stupas were designed accordingly the three main stupas from the temple complex Wat Phra Sri Sanphet from Ayutthaya!
There is another building located in northeastern part of the temple which contains typical Sukhothai style bell-shaped stupa. That means that these buildings have two periods in history in their construction styles!
At some point I decided to climb the small hill on the side of the ruins and what I saw blew my mind! A spectacular view of green and lush fields, with palms and hill peak.
Wat Nang Phaya
Wat Nang Phaya is located in Si Satchanalai province and dates back to the early Ayutthaya period (early 16th century AD). Wat Nang Phaya is situated on one of the primary historic axes of Si Satchanalai. No written documents state when it has been established; however, its large dimensions speak volumes of its great significance back then. King Rama VI mentioned it in his well-known novel Theo Muang Phra Ruang calling attention to its marvelous quality of stucco decoration.
Wat Nang Phaya has strong laterite enclosing walls that surround its vihara. Wooden roof of the building decorated with earthenware tiles once stood proudly. Balustrade openings arranged on each wall allow soft daylight coming into interior. Beautiful exterior decorations made of stucco are clearly influenced by art styles of Lanna and China.
These old plaster decorations are used nowadays by local craftsmen and make a considerable contribution in generating revenue for the Si Satchanalai area. These artisans transform these complicated wall designs into handmade gold jewelry and this type of jewelry called “the antique gold of Si Satchanalai” became known worldwide!
Behind this pavilion there stands an important building, namely a huge bell-shaped stupa sitting on a large pedestal decorated with stucco elephants resembling those at Wat Chang Lom temple close by. On all sides there are four projections coming out. Overall structure is very similar to the main pagoda in Ayutthaya – Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, built within the same active period.
There is an augmented reality App sign at the site. I didn’t try it on site as I had limited data to download. However, when I tried at home it didn’t work at all. It seems a bit outdated and possibly not maintained anymore. You can checkout their website here.
Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai
The great Buddhist Monastery called Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai is situated right on the line of the main avenue of the ancient city Si Satchanalai.
According to the historical documents, this place is referred twice in separate chapters of Northern Historic Chronicle. One mentions consecration of the temple complex and another speaks about high status of the monks living here.
Monastery compound layout follows the clear rectangular pattern and oriented towards the south-eastern direction. Among several structures preserved there is round shaped chedi, however, its main structure does not survive anymore and left with the tiers of platforms as its pedestal.
Right next to it is main prayer hall – vihara. Structure follows the design with open six rooms without any wall barriers between the cells. Inside this large hall, it is possible to find the pedestal of main Buddha statue as well as monk’s seat.
Ramnarog Gate
Ramnarong Gate is historically placed in the south-eastern wall of the town and situated right after Wat Nang Phaya temple. This gate construction is massive, done from strong Laterite stones. Its base resembles upside-down Lotus flower. Additionally, there are frames decorated with 20 nice concave angles outside of the gate. Quite impressive, but wait… The passageway itself goes through a huge hole of 3.5 meters width and 4 meters height.
There are vertical openings for wooden gates 1.5 meters wide carved right into middle of doorframe openings inside. Right behind those wooden doors starts paved passage bounded by curbs made of compressed Laterite and soil mixture.
That path leads straight to huge rectangle-shaped Fort measuring 18×22 meters high by 3 meters. Outside wall of this Fort had been carved directly on shale rock layer whereas others walls had been constructed by laterite blocks rather loosely. Moreover, there are remains of water moat and beautiful pools surrounding whole fort complex.
One funny fact regarding this fort is that King Rama VI recorded this site when he visited town of Sawankhalok himself in his literary piece called Theo Muang Phra Roung stating that this town had four major entrances among which southern-eastern entrance is known as Ramnarong Gate. Archeologists estimate that both fort structure and the gate construction date before 1474 AD.
Wat Lak Muang (Wat Lhuk Muang)
And the temple Wat Lhuk Muang is located right inside ancient Si Satchanalai city walls and literally next door to royal grand palace. That must make a good place!
This temple oriented to the south-east. It consists of five-bay assembly hall (Wihan), built directly opposite small mandapa. In addition main stupa is designed according to square tier pattern, decorated by twenty niches; Khmer influence seen clearly.
Outer walls are decorated by triangular mouldings and beautiful stucco decorations reminding me those at Wat Si Sawai main stupa – both structures of the same period.
King Rama VI visited the land 1907 year and noted down everything he saw in his book “Theo Muang Phra Roung”. According to this king’s writings this place doesn’t represent Buddhist temple nor Hindu shrine. As a matter of fact, it seems more likely this structure was used as a worship site for local gods/deities or even as a shrine of city pillar.
I had no time to go to the temple, so I just took a back picture of central prang.
Wat Chedi Ched Thaeo (Thaew) / Wat Chedi Chet Thao
Wat Chedi Ched Thaeo is really large complex of temples located in the ancient town of Si Satchanalai.
33 stupas placed on the territory and aligned according to some rules based on cosmological principles. Besides there are some interesting artifacts inside which prove Prince Damrong Rajanubhab conclusions that the area used to be royal cemetery for Sukhothai dynasty.
Here you can find 3 types of stupas which differ from another:
- Lotus-Bud Stupas: They have elegant lines typical for Sukhothai art style. These are very tall stupa rising from square platform which leads to octagonal part with stupa topped with floral ornament from stucco.
- Prasat-Type Monuments: These are squre shaped monuments which roof consists of several tiers and walls decorated by projections. These styles are influenced by neighboring countries including Laos and Cambodian art styles.
- Bell-Shaped Stupas: These monuments consist of bell-shaped dome which sits above decorated rings which lead to funnel shape spire.
Scientists suggest that bell shaped architectural style originate from ancient Indian burial mounds topped with umbrella tiers, connecting the complex back to early Buddhist funerary traditions.
Wat Chang Lom
The Wat Chang Lom is the huge temple situated in the middle of Si Satchanalai and dates back to the time of the Sukhothai Kingdom. Probably it was built somewhere around the end of 14th or beginning of 15th century AD. As far as I have understood it might be build by King Ramkamhaeng in 1285. It was related to excavate the relics of the Lord Buddha and to worship these relics during a month and six days before putting into stupa that has to be erected in the centre of town surrounded by the wall. Construction of the temple took nine whole years!
First thing that strikes my eyes – the bell shaped main stupa built on the elevated base decorated with elephant sculptures all around it. There were twenty niches carved in upper part of the base containing the stucco images of the Buddha sitting in the posture of subduing Mara position. The bell itself is raised on the upside-down lotus flower base and holds the throne in its shape. Pole holding the umbrella is decorated with the relief image of walking Buddha!
This principle of construction comes from Sri Lanka from the third century AD and possibly affected Sukhothai Kingdom during the 14th century due to religious contacts under the rule of King Maha Dhammaracha Litai. Moreover, the idea of surrounding elephants can be explained with the symbol that an elephant is considered a sacred creature who carries Buddhism beliefs.
Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to enter inside of the temple because I had very limited time, but fortunately enough, my zoom camera helped me a lot.
Wat Some Siew (Someseew)
Located at the north east direction lies monument number 17 named Wat Somseew. Consists mostly out of vihara structure in which there is left only rectangular laterite base with porch on both sides.
Behind this structure lies main chedi which contains the same composition with rectangular laterite base. In addition to it there is placed rectangular altar at its front side. Wat Somseew monument dates to the times of the 14th-15th century AD and relates to Sukhothai era.
Wat Wi Han Noi (Wat Wihan Noy)
And today we visited another temple called Wat Vihan Noy. The orientation is towards the northeast. At first sight it became clear why this temple received such name – its assembly building named vihara is only 3 bays wide and the lotus base on the floor level is upside-down.
Right after vihara there comes laterite mandapa with frontal niche. It is believed that mandapa had the roof which curved upwards. This type of mandapa construction could be seen elsewhere in Thailand within old city walls during the 14th century and 15th centuries. Small stupa was located at the back side of mandapa and only base of it remains.
The whole temple dates back to 14-15 century AD Sukhothai Period.
Wat Thung Setthi
Wat Thung Setthi was built in Sukhothai era and now situated outside the town walls in front of Ramnarong gate in north-east orientation with the rectangular ground plan. Besides, wat perimeter walls constructed of tightly fitted laterite bars and have entrances located in the middle point of each side of the perimeter wall.
There are located central vihara building within the complex perimeter walls, which is an open six bay hall-type without enclosing walls. The entrance is decorated with the porch which consists of three bays supported by square pillars.
Archaeological excavation work revealed the existence of two-storeyed pedestal foundation structure for a Buddha statue at Wat Thung Setthi.
Behind this vihara is located the bell-type central pagoda, whose base of bell-type decorated by reversed lotus motif pattern, whereas four directional niches of Buddhas are carved on the lowest pagoda base.
Four minor pagodas exist on this territory. Unfortunately, nothing left besides their lowest base structure. There is absolutely impossible to recognize their architecture type!
Cycling to the Bus Stop
It was 4:23pm already and I was cycling back in a hurry to make to the bus, which was supposed to leave 4:45 pm. I still had to drop off the broken bike and I couldn’t pedal fast that rusty old bike, as one of the pedals was broken.
Eventually at 4:36pm I was already at that big entrance gate and headed to drop off my bike.
Bus Ride Back to Sukhothai
I returned my bike to the shop with that broken pedal. I was worried that they might charge me extra for the broken pedal, but I didn’t try to hide it or anything. I immediately showed the guy the broken pedal and returned the broken parts (pedal and the spring) that I have collected and said “It was old and it has broken”. He just nodded the head and didn’t say anything. He didn’t ask any compensation or anything. I felt guilty and quite bad, so I bought a bottle of water and another beer from him and left him the change (around ฿30). He was so happy! The guy immediately sat down to repair the bike.
It was around 4:40 pm and I was already waiting for the bus on the other side of the road. I wasn’t really sure where the actual bus stop was. I drank the beer while waiting and disposed a can in a bin at a nearby shop. The owners immediately came and collected the can. I guess they recycle them for money.
After few minutes it was 4:45 pm, but no bus in sight. I was getting a bit nervous that I have missed it. The sun was quiet hot too and I was trying to find shade to hide, but minute later I realised that they might not see me if I stand further from the road, so I got back to the road. 5 min later I saw the bus! The same bus from the museum. The same conductor opened the doors, I paid for the ticket and this time I got a seat! In fact the bus was quite empty and only me with couple other passengers in the entire bus.
Cold Chang Beer to Wrap Up the Day
An hour later I was back to Sukhothai. Some local orange cat which I saw in the morning too have greeted me in the station, I walked through the stones laid back in the grass from the station back to my accommodation, which took me like 2 minutes. It was still so hot, so I got another large Chang beer for only ฿60 and sat outside in content of managing to get to Si Satchanalai and back. I was really scared of getting stuck in there, but all was good.
Oh, how I wish that I had at least a full day here! This place is truly magical! Empty temples, no tourists and just local people. Of course, later in the day I did see some tourists in the temples, but still quite empty. I must admit, it was one of the most difficult places to get to in Thailnd (well at least for now from my experience), but it was worth it! Unfortunately, making any changes to my itinerary meant I need to skip something else and losing some of the accommodation or even flight reservation. I truly think, it was one of my most favourite places I’ve visited in entire Thailand! I’ve seen just a part of the historical part and just got a taste of it and I believe there is so much more to see according to the map. Also, that authentic kindness in the bus and Si Satchanalai by local people was really heart warming. Maybe one day, I will come back here to stay a bit longer and document it all. Also, if you follow the map it is a bit confusing, so do study before coming here as you might end up going in circles.
Dinner in Sukhothai
Finally, after a quick shower, which wasn’t necessary as I was sweating as much if not more just moments after. Anyway, I went to a place called, Ban Kluai – Left green foodstall, just round the corner from the apartment. the dishes were very cheap there ($60 – ฿6100), though the restaurant (if I can call it that way) didn’t look very appetising. However, the food turned out to be very delicious! Of course, where is food, there are also some hungry cats! I captured couple of them.
Tips for Si Satchanalai
- It is totally worth coming to Si Satchanalai even for a day trip. It is full of history, beautiful ruins and not many tourists.
- If you are taking a bus, do make sure you have a bus ride back and check for return time in the station before leaving and do ask in the return time in the bus itself as they will know more precise time. Only tow buses a day!!!
- Research where you can rent a bicycle as it is a small town after all. You can try the place I posted once you get off the bus.
- I would totally recommend staying couple days here as this town was very authentic, people were kind and very friendly it felt very different from other touristic places in Thailand.
- Watch the video below if you want to get an impression of Si Satchanalai. It is in Thai, but just watch it with English subtitles and you will see how beautiful it is. This is from the official site audio guides on Youtube and since it is in Thai you probably never would find it otherwise.
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