Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan is one of the best preserved temples in Si Satchanalai, incorporating Khmer temple design, and it holds great importance as a historical temple.
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Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan Temple Construction
Everything at Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang uses laterite stone for its construction. Laterite is a type of red soil or rock rich in iron and aluminium. It forms in hot, wet places and hardens when exposed to air, making it a good material for building. Builders covered all surfaces with stucco. Stucco is a fine plaster or cement material. Workers apply it to walls and other surfaces, shaping it or carving it for decoration, and it often dries to a very hard finish. If the Khmer people used any sandstone, workers either removed it or hid it under later repairs and changes.
Exploring the Temple Complex
I took my time exploring around the temple and I was completely alone there. It felt really overwhelming and fascinating. The he entrance gate to the temple complex was made from big laterite stones! The precision of their shape and how they are placed on top each other almost resemble Inca stone cutting techniques. The only difference that these one were made from laterite. On the top of the main entrance there is a magnificently decorated pillar stands atop the structure, in excellent condition. This pillar features a Brahma head facing each of the four cardinal directions. In the niches you can see figures of devatas, female figures, often depicted as deities or celestial beings, found in Khmer temples. Below the figure of preserved Apsara. In Thai culture, Apsara (อัปสร) refers to a celestial nymph or maiden, often depicted in dance and art. It originates from Hindu and Buddhist mythology where Apsaras are spirits of the clouds and waters, later associated with “nymphs” or “fairies”.
Interestingly, on the top of the middle stone there is a hole carved through. The reason for that is unknown and information on the temple is quite limited. It is somewhat similar to Malta’s megalithic temples, where the hole was connected to the solstice, suggesting events like sacrifices, or religious ceremonies, may have been aligned to specific times of year. Indded, Angkor Wat in Cambodia, have clear solstice alignments, but there is no evidence of human sacrifices. Instead, these alignments are believed to have been used for symbolic and cosmological purposes, connecting the temples to the cycles of the sun and the Khmer worldview.
Buddhist temples did not perform any animal or human sacrifices, but in Khmer Empire, which existed from the 9th to the 15th centuries, animal and sometimes human sacrifices were practiced to please Neak Ta. It refers to a class of powerful ancestral and guardian spirits in Cambodian folk religion. Neak Ta spirits are visualised in various ways, often as anthropomorphic figures, but also as natural elements or objects that embody their power. They are commonly represented as statues or images of historical figures, protectors of the community, or ancestral spirits. They can also be represented by natural features like trees, rocks, or termite mounds, or even by objects like wooden linga or spirit houses. Given that the original Khmer temple was built in 12th century, during Khmer reign, it is possible that some sort of sacrifices could have taken place in that temple. However, lack of bones and evidence makes this just a speculation.
The Prang of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Chaliang has a tall, corn-cob shaped tower called a prang as its main feature. This striking tower might be the only original part from the Khmer period, a time when the powerful Khmer Empire influenced much of Southeast Asia. The height of the prang reaching 25 metres.
We cannot know its age for sure, due to later additions and repairs. Many sources suggest it comes from the early 13th century as mentioned above. It is possible King Jayavarman VII, a famous Khmer ruler who built many temples, ordered its construction. However, some scholars believe it could have come a little later, perhaps even during the transition from Khmer to Sukhothai rule. Interestingly, some archaeologists even think the Sukhothai people, who later established their own kingdom, built this prang completely from new, rather than simply modifying an older Khmer one. This shows how building styles and power shifted between empires in the region.
No matter who built the first tower, its current shape comes from the Ayutthaya period. King Borom Trai Lokkanat (who ruled from 1448-1488) built over the older structure during his reign. This grand renovation would have given the prang its impressive, imposing form that visitors see today. Such remodelling was common in ancient Thailand, as new rulers often enhanced existing religious sites to show their devotion and authority. The “corn-cob” shape itself is a classic feature of Khmer and later Thai architecture, symbolising Mount Meru, the mythical centre of the universe in Buddhist and Hindu cosmology. The poster in the temple suggests that main stupa in this temple was built in 16th century AD, during King Borom Trailokanat spread of his politic influence in the northern parts of Thailand.
Once you climb the steep stairs from the east side of the prang you will end up in the inner chamber. This is the central prang of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan in Si Satchanalai. Inside, a beautiful lotus-bud stupa sits, and people believe it holds sacred Buddha relics. This makes the prang a very important part of the temple, as “Mahathat” itself means “holy relic.” The presence of these relics makes the prang a highly revered site, attracting many devout worshippers.
This inner chamber is a very significant place for local people. They regularly make offerings to show their respect and devotion. However, most people offer their prayers and gifts down below the prang, rather than climbing up inside the narrow, steep stairs to the inner chamber. This shows their reverence for the sacred space.
The object inside the prang chamber in the image is a stupa. It has a cylinder shape with a narrowing top, resembling a lotus bud. These stupas often house sacred relics, such as Buddha relics, which makes the location very important for worshippers. The stupa in the image is adorned with colourful cloths and offerings. These colourful cloths are added by people as offerings. These offerings are made to show respect and devotion to the sacred stupa and the relics it contains. You can also see old (not ancient though) wooden door at the entrance to the inner chamber.
Buddha Statues around the Central Prang
The central prang (the tall, corn-cob shaped tower, as we’ve discussed) now has two covered walkways, called cloisters, built around it. Imagine these cloisters as a square or rectangular path surrounding the prang. In the past, these walkways were filled with Buddha statues, creating a long line of figures for worshippers to see. Today, only two of those original Buddha statues remain, giving us a hint of how it once looked.
In front of the prang, facing it, stands a wihan. A wihan is a large hall used for holding ceremonies and housing Buddha images, a common feature in Thai temples. This particular wihan is quite impressive, with many pillars that once supported its roof still standing, and much of its original wall structure also remains. This allows visitors to still get a strong sense of its former size and importance.
At the very centre of this wihan, you find a beautiful sitting Buddha statue. It’s so perfectly serene and well-preserved. I even touched the hand of the Buddha, hoping it will transfer part of that serenity into me with some jolt of electricity. Well, nothing happened. I just took a nice picture, which maybe I will use to send a postcard as this is the main landmark in this place – Si Satchanalai.
To the south side of the wihan (to the left if you are facing the prang), there is another remarkable statue: a walking Buddha. This particular statue is made in the classical Sukhothai style, a famous period in Thai art known for its elegant, flowing, and spiritually expressive Buddha images. The walking Buddha pose is unique to the Sukhothai period, showing the Buddha in a dynamic stride, often with one hand raised, symbolising grace and peace. On the northern side of wihan there is standing Buddha, which is also well preserved.
If you walk around the inner wall around central prang, you will spot two well preserved Buddha statues. Both of them sitting in a meditative pose. One is better preserved than the other.
Other Chedi in Main Complex
There are three more chedi in the main complex, two are North East from the Prang and another one is South East from the Prang. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of the most North-Easter chedi from the front. I saw that those columns used to have beautiful ornaments (from pictures taken in 2019) and Buddha or devatas reliefs (hard to tell from that picture), but it seems from this angle those columns are completely blank now. Only some columns by the wall seems to retain some of the decorations, but it is quickly deteriorating. If you do take pictures up-close of these, please share it with me!
Temple Complex Surrounded by laterite walls
The main temple complex is surrounded by big laterite stone wall. The cylindrical laterite blocks are placed vertically next to each other and another triangle shape one is placed on top. I haven’t seen any other temple in Thailand surrounded by such walls. Yes, some temples have walls, but not like this, which almost resemble monolithic stone wall.
Outside of the main temple complex, you can see smaller laterite stone wall, which is partially deteriorated already, but the stones are still standing vertically close to each other.
Tall Chedi Ruins with Stairs
Once I left through the rear (western gate) of the main temple complex, I stumbled into some more Buddha statues and chedi ruins. I was walking closer to that chedi, which is just behind the central Prang. It had stairs to the top of it. Also, the stairs seemed quite well preserved. There was no sign not to climb, as they mark in other places in Thailand.
I looked around and since there was no barriers, signs and literally no one was there to stop me, I’ve decided to cliimb to the top. The stairs were quite steep and I was kept going up and up. At some point I got a bit worried that I won’t be able to go down those steep stairs! Finally, I was on a top of chedi and I was looking around (I did have a very clear view from there!). No sirens, no police coming to arrest me or some angry monks shouting at me. So I took my time to take some photos and enjoy the view. And the view was truly amazing! I think that was one of my best shots during my trip in Thailand! I was very respectful and as careful as possible.
Other Buddha Statues in the Complex
If you walked behind the chedi ruins you will three more Buddha statues. The best view was from the top of the chedi of course and I am glad I took some pictures. You can also see that different laterite wall, from square blocks, surrounding this smaller complex.
For reasons that are not clear, the northern part of this laterite wall unexpectedly takes a very sharp angle. Imagine the wall running mostly straight, and then abruptly it turns at a distinct, almost corner-like bend, rather than continuing its straight path or curving at 90° angle. The reason for this specific architectural choice remains unknown to historians and archaeologists. The river on that side is much further than on the souther part, but the land might have looked differently 900 years ago. If you look closely all the temples are further away from northern part of Yom River. Also it seems Yom River has a history of overflowing and causing floods, particularly in its lower reaches and the Sukhothai area. So maybe the wall was shaped by the bank of Yom river at the time, to ensure it was not flooded.
Inside this area, defined by the peculiar angled wall, several important structures can be found. There is a very large, octagonal base (meaning it has eight sides), which once supported a stupa. A stupa is a sacred, typically dome-shaped or pointed structure, commonly found in Buddhist temples, that houses holy relics, often those of the Buddha. This particular stupa, however, is now only partially standing.
Further within this section, there is a mondop, a specific type of square or cross-shaped building with a tiered roof found in Thai temples, often built to enshrine a revered object or provide a place for contemplation. Inside this mondop stands a remarkably well-preserved Buddha statue in a standing posture, known as Phra Attharot. This name is frequently given to very tall and imposing standing Buddha images, highlighting their majestic presence.
Additionally, on the remnants of what was once the base of a second wihan, two large sitting Buddha statues are situated. A wihan is a principal hall within a Thai temple complex used for congregational ceremonies and housing significant Buddha images. The presence of these statues on its foundation suggests the former existence of another grand assembly hall in this part of the temple.
Other Known Temple Names
The Temple is often referred in different names, which makes it really difficult to find the complete information about hte temple! Other known names are: Wat Phra Prang (วัดพระปรางค์), Wat Mahathat Chaliang (วัดมหาธาตุเชลียง), Wat Si Mahathat Chaliang (วัดศรีมหาธาตุเชลียง), Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุเชลียง), Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุราชวรวิหาร), Wat Phra Si Ratanamahathat Rajvoravihara (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุราชวรวิหาร), Wat Borommathat (วัดพระบรมธาตุ), Wat Phra Borommathat (วัดพระบรมธาตุ), Wat Borommathat Mueang Chaliang (วัดพระบรมธาตุเมืองเชลียง)
I think it’s a great experience and impressions. Very well described!