Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan is one of the best preserved temples in Si Satchanalai, incorporating Khmer temple design, and it holds great importance as a historical temple.
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Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan Temple Construction
Laterite stone is the primary construction material used everywhere in Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Chaliang Temple Complex. The Laterite is a red soil containing iron and aluminum minerals. Laterite is developed in warm humid climate zones and once exposed to atmospheric air, becomes very hard. They used stuccos for covering whole surface of the buildings. Stuccos refer to fine paste made of plaster or cement mixture applied onto the wall surfaces or other constructions for decorative purpose, resulting in hard coating after drying. If Khmers used any sandstone, the builders either removed them or covered them in later renovations.
Exploring the Temple Complex
I took my time exploring around the temple of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan. There wasn’t anyone else around there; therefore it felt extremely intense and magnificent. I had a lot of time wandering around the whole complex and I saw many cool things!
The gate entrance to the temple complex was constructed from huge Laterite stones and their construction is outstanding – perfectly cut stones, stacked in a precise manner reminding Inca’s stone-cutting techniques. But these stones were cut into Laterite stones!
There is a beautifully ornamented pillar standing on top of the main entrance. It is amazingly well-preserved! It represents a Brahma head looking towards each direction (four cardinal directions)! There is a beautiful depiction of devatas figures. Devata usually depicts females as deities or spirits. Underneath devata there is a nicely preserved Apsara.
In Thai tradition Apsara refers to a celestial spirit. They are heavenly dancers and celestial beauties (female). Originated in Hinduism and Buddhism mythologies; where Apsaras were female spirits of clouds and water – later called ‘nymphs’ or ‘fairies’.
There is one mysterious thing on the top of the middle stone. There is drilled whole across that stone and nobody knows why it was done as there is very little information about that temple available now. This temple seems somehow resembles Maltese Megalithic Temples where holes in stones indicated the day of the Solstice. And it might have been related to some religious ceremony performed on certain days of the year including sacrifice of humans etc. Interestingly enough in Angkor Wat in Cambodia there are clear marks of the Solstice alignments but without any signs of human sacrifice.
Of course, Buddhism does not have practice to sacrifice animals nor humans at all, but in case of Cambodia and its empire (the period between IX-XV centuries), sacrifices to appease spirits called “Neak Ta” used to happen. These spirits are considered to be ancestors’ or protective spirits in Cambodian folklore religions. These spirits may have different shapes – anthropomorphic representations, natural phenomena or objects embodying its strength. The most common form of these spirits is the representation as statue or painting of some historical personality, protector or ancestor spirit. Moreover, it can even be represented as tree, stone, anthill or wooden lingam or spirit house. Taking into account that this temple belongs originally to the epoch of Khmer reigns in 12 century, it’s quite possible that some sacrifices happened there. There are no traces or remains of bones, so we cannot say for sure anything.
The Prang of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan
Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Chaliang Temple has amazing tower – prang shaped as corn cob towers and that is main attraction there. Perhaps this spectacular tower is the only remaining one of Khmer era in fact, when mighty Khmer empire dominated Southeast Asia. Tower is really high, 25 meters.
Unfortunately it is impossible to determine age definitely due to restoration works throughout ages. Most of resources assume its dating back to early 13th century. The king Jayavarman VII, well-known builder of temples in the Khmer empire, may order construction. Some researchers consider possibility that construction happened slightly later and maybe even during transformation from Khmer domination period into the Sukhothai period.
Incredible thought but true – archaeologists suppose that this prang can be fully newly constructed structure, and not just remodeling of existing older Khmer construction by locals Sukhothai! It looks amazing when considering architectural changes and power shifts between two rival empires.
Whatever might be happened before this prang was reconstructed during Ayuttaya period under rule of king Borom Trai Lokkanat, ruling period between 1448-1488 AD. Such reconstruction would provide prang its great looks as we see now. In fact such practices used to be usual practice in ancient Thailand. New ruler always wanted to renovate any holy site in order to prove himself and show how devoted he was. Corn cob like appearance represents Mount Meru according to Hindu or Buddhist religions and was a popular architectural style in Khmer era followed by Thailand. From the poster inside the temple I understand that main stupa here was erected during 16th century under rule of Borom Trailokanat spreading his political power into north parts of Thailand!
The stairs on the eastern part, going upwards to reach the Inner Chamber, were quite steep.
It was the center prang of Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan, one of temples of Si Satchanalai historical park. There was very nice stupa shaped as lotus-bud located within the Inner Chamber and was considered to preserve holy Buddhist relics. Thus, the name of the temple is explained as well by meaning that it is a place for holy relics (Mahathat). That explains high degree of respectability among the believers and many of pilgrims visiting this place daily.
Making offering is one of practices among the locals who are paying homage to Buddha’s relics. But what’s important here is that they actually do it from outside below the prang without coming up to the Inner Chamber through the stairs due to extreme veneration for it.
This is the picture from Prang Temple! Inside the main chamber we can see something called Stupa – cylindrical object which looks similar to lotus flowers buds. Stupas usually keep sacred relics, including the Buddha relics. Therefore, the whole area becomes very sacred place for worship. It can be seen that there are a lot of colorful cloths decorating this stupa, which actually were put as offering! Offering are done in order to demonstrate deep devotion towards this holy object. One can notice an old wood door leading into another small chamber where this stupa is placed.
The descent was even steeper, although there were metal railings that we held on to for support. But what amazed me most of all was the scenery. And using the lens of my super zoom camera I even saw one monk walking in the streets!
Buddha Statues around the Central Prang
The central prang (that corn cob-looking tower which we’ve spoken earlier about), now features two covered walkways known as cloisters, surrounding it. In other words, think of the path shaped like a rectangle around the main prang. Originally those cloisters contained the Buddha Statues along whole length and today only two statues left there and provide you with an idea of what it might look like before.
In front of the prang you can find another building named wihan. Wihan is ceremonial hall for Buddha images used widely across Thailand as temples. Wihan here is very remarkable one, as well as prangs actually. There are numerous columns supporting roof of that place and even walls of wihan are mostly preserved allowing you to see actual dimensions of building.
Right in the middle of Wihan stands the Sitting Buddha statue. Perfectly serene and in a great shape as well. In addition, I have tried to touch the hand of Buddha statue, maybe to feel some spark of energy. But no luck! So far I’ve only taken some nice shots with camera to show people later at home.
As this is considered to be the main attraction in Si Satchanalai I believe, I might use the shot as a postcard someday.
Next statue is situated to the southern side of wihan – on the left side if you stand facing prang. It represents Walking Buddha statue in the Classical Sukhothai style – it was famous period of art in Thailand. Walking Buddha style is characteristic only to the Sukhothai era, where the Buddha represented in a gesture of walking. In addition, usually Buddha statue holds one arm in front of him, symbolizing elegance and harmony. Statues were really amazing!
There is another standing Buddha statue located to the north side of wihan.
Walking around the internal wall surrounding central prang you will find two Buddha statues in really good condition! Both sitting in meditation posture! The state of preservation differs between both statues significantly.
Other Chedi in Main Complex
There are three more chedis which situated in the main complex area. Two of the chedis located to the North East of the Prang while the third is located to the South East of the Prang building. Actually, I couldn’t get photos of the northern eastern chedi from the front side unfortunately. According to photos which I saw which were made in 2019, columns of those chedis had beautiful decorations with Buddha/devata sculptures but according to the photo above columns seem completely plain now from this point. Just several columns near walls had some ornamentation but they become worse day by day.
Temple Complex Surrounded by laterite walls
The biggest temple complex is enclosed within large laterite stone wall. Cylindrical laterite blocks are standing side by side vertically and triangular block is lying horizontally. I haven’t seen any other temple in Thailand having such walls. Sure some of them do have the wall; however not something similar like this. Almost monolithic wall!
It gives very nice feeling walking inside surrounded by these thick stone walls! Quite peaceful atmosphere!
Beside the great temple complex, there are some smaller walls constructed with laterite stone wall, which is partly deteriorated already, but the stones stand close together still vertically.
Tall Chedi Ruins with Stairs
Finally I have exited through the back door, called western gate, of the Temple complex and got even into Buddha statues and ruins of chedi. One chedi was right behind the main Prang with stairs leading up to the top! These stairs seem to be in quite decent conditions unlike most places I visited. There weren’t any warning signs here telling not to climb as usually seen everywhere else in Thailand.
So I have looked around and without any fences, warning signs and even one single person there telling me not to do so, I’ve decided to climb up. Steps were really steep going straight upwards. I have felt scared once when thought that I might not manage to walk back down because of those steep stairs. But I reached the top and enjoyed view around me (the view was outstanding)! There weren’t any sirens, policemen arresting me or even one single monk scolding me.
So I took some photos and enjoyed this beautiful view. This is certainly one of my favourite shots taken in my trip across Thailand.
Other Buddha Statues in the Complex
Walking behind ruins of chedi we could find 3 other Buddha statues. The view from above on the chedi itself is magnificent! Glad I made some shots of this! We can also spot another laterite wall constructed from square stones which creates boundaries for this smaller temple complex. Very beautiful sight indeed!
The northern part of this wall makes quite sharp turn for some reason. Can hardly imagine what this is all about. The wall goes smoothly and then sharply bends in another direction making a right angle turn, which isn’t rounded 90 degrees angle but quite sharp one. Why was exactly this architectural style chosen nobody knows now. The river is definitely located further north than southern wall part. However, 900 years ago this territory could look different. It appears that every temple complex in that area is placed further away from the Yom River northern bank compared to others. Besides, it looks like Yom River often used to flood the region, especially southern lowlands near Sukhothai. Thus, maybe initially that section of the wall followed banks of Yom river to protect this territory from flooding.
Within this area bordered by unusual sloped walls, there are numerous architectural structures located. Firstly, huge octagon base which formerly held a stupa can be seen. A stupa refers to religious monument that usually takes shape of a dome or cone which usually stores sacred items such as Buddha’s relics. Unfortunately this stupa cannot be viewed anymore because only half of it remained.
Next one is called a mondop – it is square/cross shaped building with multistoried roof which serves as enshrining place of sacred item/object. And in the middle of the mondop there is preserved really impressive standing Buddha statue which is named as Phra Attharot. It means literally ‘Phra’ which refers to Buddha himself and ‘Attharot’, the height. Thus such Buddha statue names reflect its impressive height.
Also, at the bottom of another wihan there are two large sitting Buddha statues installed. Wihan is main building within temple complex for ceremonial purposes where important Buddha statues are placed. Thus it seems there existed another big assembly hall within this complex.
This is all I’ve found today during walking around this area of temple complex. It is very impressive and interesting place!
Other Known Temple Names
The Temple is often referred in different names, which makes it really difficult to find the complete information about hte temple! Other known names are: Wat Phra Prang (วัดพระปรางค์), Wat Mahathat Chaliang (วัดมหาธาตุเชลียง), Wat Si Mahathat Chaliang (วัดศรีมหาธาตุเชลียง), Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุเชลียง), Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Ratchaworawihan (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุราชวรวิหาร), Wat Phra Si Ratanamahathat Rajvoravihara (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุราชวรวิหาร), Wat Borommathat (วัดพระบรมธาตุ), Wat Phra Borommathat (วัดพระบรมธาตุ), Wat Borommathat Mueang Chaliang (วัดพระบรมธาตุเมืองเชลียง)
Broken Bike Pedal
At the end of visit of the this temple when I wanted to go further to the next temple on my rental bike, there appeared the problem. There was small ramp to ride out and I have thought that it was easy to climb with a bike on. How silly I’ve been!! As soon as I pushed my bike pedal the thing broke off completely. Pedal was just made from plastics which have fallen apart and some metal spring fell off on the ground.
However I was not finished yet and I was determined to visit at least 2 or 3 more Temples, therefore I collected all springs and plastic pieces in order not to lose them in my backpack and continued my journey with only one pedal using my legs.
Well that was really ridiculous situation but what else you can do. You cannot get off the track at any point because you have the whole program planned! Also, I must say that this unfortunate event made the entire experience in Si Satchanalai more memorable. Like in that saying “When life gives lemons, make lemonade”.
Read the who in the article about Si Satchanalai.
I think it’s a great experience and impressions. Very well described!