After finishing exploring Central Zone I was headin to Sukhothai Western Zone. If only I knew how much cycling I will have to do there, I would have taken so much more water with me! The adventure was ahead of me and I was very excited about it while cycling my bike.
Table of Contents
Ancient Temple Near Pratu Ao
The first site outside the fortification is not far. However, the first sign does not show its indication at all; actually, it says something like “the warning for locals not to bring their cows into this archaeological zone”. No official name for this place exists at all; only old temple near Pratu Ao or Broken Wall gate is known about this place.
The funny thing is that when checking google street view pictures of this place one may find lots of cows eating the grass there. I don’t know whether these cows belong to the locals or just wander around freely.
Wat Si Thon (Wat Sri Thon)
Within short walking of cylcing to Wat Si Chum there was another temple known as Wat Si Thon. What makes it unique it is mandapa and assembly hall. Square shape mandapa built using strong bricks, meant to hold weight. It consisted of mandapa with a Buddha statue and looks bigger compare to vihara which stands directly opposite of mandapa. It is interesting that visitors came to pray at Buddha statue in vihara whose roof made of tiles.
As the historical facts show, separation between worship area and the living area was common practice at the time when the Lord Buddha lived. Indeed, for example, if Lord Buddha visited some temple, he resided in his personal chamber away from the vihara where common devotees carried out rituals. Moreover, Wat Si Thon was home to learned monk from Sri Lanka with profound knowledge about Tripitaka. Researchers claim that exactly this monk wrote a touching elegy dedicated to Phra Maha Dharmaraja Li Thai and this fact is written on Stone Inscription Number 4 dating back to 1361 A.D.
The Western Ruins number 9
This was number 9 of Western ruins and located in Muang Kao Sub-District, Muang Sukhothai District, Sukhothai Province. Buddhist Temple located outside of Sukhothai Town in the forest monasteries area called Aranyik. It is situated 400 meters away from the walls of the town to the West.
There were ruins of Assembly Hall or Vihara and some stupas around it. The Assembly Hall consists of laterite pillars and leads directly to the stairs that connect the entrance located in eastern façade of the building. Inside the hall there is huge pedestal standing on a platform. Moreover, there is six-stupas row situated on another elevated platform positioned in eastern part of the Vihara. Experts suppose that one of these six stupas used to be the exquisite lotus bud shaped stupa, which is typical architectural invention of Sukhothai architecture, judging by broken lotus bud superstructure. Another stupa in the form of brick-built base with square floor plan is located in western part of the Vihara, whereas its upper sections are collapsed.
Excavation work conducted here in 2013, together with restoration conducted just this year, give the evidence that this temple goes back into the times of mid-fifteenth centuries, which means about 600 years ago!
Then I have noticed amazing scenery when we have gone for walk outside. There was this branchless tree that had lot of different birds sitting there on the thin branches. First of all I saw several Asian openbill storks sitting there with their characteristic bill that has gap between mandibles. In addition there were a lot of beautiful white egrets sitting there on the tree branches too.
Wat Nong Pa Pong
Afterward, I visited Wat Nong Pa Pong monument complex which is located outside Sukhothai city in Forestry Zone Aranyika. Wat Nong Pa Pong monument complex belongs to Wat Pa Mamuang monument complex being situated 400 meters northeast of Wat Pa Mamuang and 350 meters east of Wat Pa Lan.
Medium sized religious site located in a moated area, consisting of lotus bud shaped stupa.
Chedi platform size is 11.5 x 11.5 m, and built in laterite-brick. Only the bricks were used to construct this stupa without any laterites. The roof is unfortunately fallen. Prayer hall – vihara building situated to the east of the stupa. Size of the vihara building equals to 15 m wide by 25 m long. Building has different constructions: laterites are used in its foundation, and its flooring consists of slate stones lining. Brick walls of the vihara have disappeared already; but the monks’ platform made of laterites could be found in its southern wall, its size is equal to 3 m wide and 23 m long. Moreover, the Buddha image pedestal could be seen in its western part of the building.
There are signs that the vihara got refurbished over time in order to be used properly as a place for worshipping.
The building consists of laterite pillars with staircase on both sides which are used as an entrance. Separate entrances into the building were typical among traditional Buddhist constructions, as laymen couldn’t enter together with the monks. Moreover, there was a cluster of six stupas around the temple situated at the western end of the lotus bud construction. Temple complex itself was enclosed within a 25×45 meters brick wall, while outside there was a 50×90 meters rectangle-shaped ditch which was 5 meters wide.
However, there were no inscriptions ever found archaeologically at this temple Wat Nong Pa Pong and there are no evidences at all to show exactly when was it built. On the basis of architecture style similar to lotus buds, it could be assumed that the temple was built somewhere between King Mahadharmarajadhiraja I and IV eras or 1357-1437.
Unfortunately, my time in this place was limited as well and I didn’t manage to discover something amazing in details. Actually it is the stone carving with god in the crown and sword surrounded with fancy arch. I discovered it via the Google Maps pictures and you definitely don’t want to miss it. (if it is actually there as many pictures in Google Maps are of wrong places).
Unnamed Temple
Then I stopped at some random place that seems to belong to the temple complex of Wat Pa Mamuang.
Wat Pa Mamuang
The next stop was Wat Pa Mamuang, probably founded in 1361 CE judging by an inscription in Khmer, Pali and Thai language. Another inscription called Wat Pa Mamuang inscription no.2 says that in the year 1361 – year of Ox, Mahasami Samgharaja was invited. It seems to be that he was very knowledgeable in observing his Silas and learning Tipitaka among those well observed in Lankadvipa (Sri Lanka), the place full of sila masters. They have invited him to live in Mango Grove Monastery. These inscriptions tell us about Phra Maha Dharmaraja Li Thai, ruled 1347 – 1368. Initially, he used to serve as a son of King of Sisatchanalai, however he went to Sukhothai to prevent riot. Having established political stability there he has appointed himself king of Sukhothai and according to Wat Pa Mamuang inscription number 2, King Li-Thai paid his respects to Mahasami Samgharaja and ordained in Wat Pa Mamuang under supervision of Sri Lankan monk.
This monument was located in the outskirts of the Sukhothai city, specifically in western direction at the Aranyika, which literally means forestry area. Archaeologists of Sukhothai Historical Park did excavations of this place and conserved the structure itself. It was located in western direction to the watch tower of the city gates. There was a building called Ubosatha with dimensions 12 meters wide and 19 meters long constructed from bricks. Ubosatha stood directly in eastern direction to main dome-shaped chedi. Main chedi usually stored bones of important persons and/or sacred objects was located on a square base of size 12×12 meters, however its upper part was fallen. Around this central chedi was 8 dome-shaped stupas surrounded with a wall constructed from bricks and its measurements were 22 meters wide and 28.5 meters long. In addition, another 12 stupas were positioned around the monastery premises including several Buddha image arches and a laterite pillar decorated with sculptures depicting a swan on top.
This is the period when Wat Pa Mamuang worked as the heart of the development of Theravada Buddhism between 1347 and 1368 CE during Mahadharmarajadhiraja I Li-Thai reign. King Mahadharmarajadhiraja I Li-Thai was the patron of Theravada Buddhism. He has constructed many temples within the region.
Wat Pa Lan
Afterwards I moved onto exploration of the Wat Pa Lan monument, which is situated in outskirts of the city Sukhothai. It is called also an Aranyika forestry zone as it lays to the west of the city. The distance between the site and Western Guard post of the city is 950 meters. The distance from another site – Wat Pa Mamuang is 100 meters, and from another important Wat Nong Pa Pong is 350 meters. The excavation was performed by the officials of the Sukhothai Historical Park. This structure consists of vihara (a prayer hall). It has size of 10 x 17.5 meters and built of bricks. The columns and stairs are made of laterite. The orientation of the vihara is to the East side of the main bell shaped Stupa.
Sadly the upper portion of the chedi was destroyed. Right to the south of the vihara, there was a rectangular building named Sala, measuring 3 meters wide and 9 meters long respectively. To the west side of the vihara six stupas were located. Stupas are normally used as tombs of the remains of the great personalities or sacred objects related with Buddha himself.
There was a 45 x 65 meters of brick wall surrounding Wat Pa Lan temple, and there was a rectangular moat around the whole area 10 meters wide. Unfortunately there hasn’t been found any inscription of Wat Pa Lan whatsoever. So, the exact date of foundation cannot be determined directly using any written sources. But thanks to the comparison made between the plans and sizes of the temples and the geographical localization scholars suppose that Wat Pa Lan resembles nearby Wat Pa Mamuang in every respect. Wat Pa Mamuang served as the center of Theravada Buddhism at the times of ruling of king Mahadharmarajadhiraja I Li-Thai in years from 1347 till 1368 AD.
Right at the entrance, there were a couple sleeping under the pergola. May be those are maintenance personnel who decided to have their nap during midday. As you can see from the sign behind, it is the place where dry leaves collect.
Wat Pa Sak
I have visited the monument called Wat Pasak, located to the north-west from Thewalai Mahakaset. Here goes the brief description: uposatha, ordination hall, whose foundation has width 6 meters and length 10 meters with 12 bases for sema, boundary stones around this place. These boundary stones are made from slate, three at each corner of this chapel and others have two boundary stones in different areas. On the north side tourists will find a base for vihara (assembly hall) with chedi remains made from bricks.
Looking carefully at these boundary stones made from slate I noticed that they stand in groups on brick foundations around this sacred place.
Western Ruin Number 26/1
After that, I visited the ruins of structure No. 26/1 located in the West side of the Sukhothai Historical Park. It was placed 1,200 meters west from the western watchtower of the city gate. On this location, the temple complex oriented to the East side inside the area with partially surrounded by moat in which other parts disappeared throughout years. The main building consisted of rectangular vihara temple chapel. Foundation was constructed of tightly packed laterite stone blocks filled with soil and inside floor of slate stones. On certain slate stones, there were drill holes intended for wooden pillars under the tiled roof.
Moreover, structural analysis by scientists showed at least two different building stages. At some point in the future they built another floor on higher level, but the initial low building in front was used as some kind of raised terrace. On the eastern side of the vihara, three small chedis were constructed – two brick square stupas and an altar. From archeological evidence, several usage periods were seen owing to overlapping constructions, yet dates are still unknown.
Wat Phra Yun
Then, I have turned off the main asphalt road and walked through dirt trails further in rural areas of Sukhothai province. Those dry dusty paths pass the agricultural land and tree shade with an open view towards distant mountain range called Khao Luang. Having passed by a tiny signboard and green spirit house I started to think whether I’m the only person there. And actually yes, in many sites of Western Zone you may see nobody else except you!
That is why the place was deliberately chosen as it’s intended for seclusion and solitude as the monks who belonged to the order Aranyawasi, meaning the monks dwelling in forests needed to meditate there. Approaching towards the clearing area, I noticed a raised brick foundation surrounded by old stone pillars. That’s what remains from the roof construction covering the huge vihara or assembly hall, where monks held meetings. There used to be Kings walking along this trail during their pilgrimage tour here. Standing alone and silent on this ancient brick platform, you may strongly feel yourself connected with ancient times!
There stood an impressive Buddha statue, called Phra Attharot, behind the altar. It stands high on the pedestal inside a small brick niche. It has been built under the inspiration of Sri Lankan architecture during the Lithai period. Despite loosing his head over many centuries, he looks amazing among the green bushes in front of blue sky. One may feel that the gracefulness of pose and clothes represents classical Thai Sukhothai style. It became one of those rare moments when you understand what is meant by saying that it’s breathtakingly beautiful place.
Wat Mangkon
This ancient Thai temple, named Wat Mangkon, situated in western direction of the city of Sukhothai in the forest region Aranyika, at distance 1,800 meters from Western Guard Post and 1,000 meters west of Wat Pa Mamuang temples. Archaeologists from the Sukhothai Historical Park excavated this place and preserved it. The complex consists of ordination hall (uposatha) with dimensions 10 x 20 meters, having staircase entrances both from east and west directions. Floor of this building covered with slabs of slate. There were also found two niches located in the front and rear walls. One statue of Buddha and eight octagonal laterite pillars have been discovered in this place; they were parts of wooden building located in the west terrace. Around this main building archaeologists have found eight sema stones and another small building (sala) of 4.5 x 6.5 meters dimensions located to the west side of the main building.
Also there is a bell-shaped stupa building located to the north of the ordination hall made of laterite and brick. Its foundation measures 11×11 meters and there is a small building 3×3 meter in size called ‘sala’ in front of it. A brick wall surrounds whole temple and also there are some balustrades and gates built in Sanghalok stone coming from Thuriang kilns to the north of Wat Phra Phai Luang. Besides, five small stupas locate outside the temple area to the south of ordination hall; they are also bell-shaped constructions built of stones and bricks and their size measures 4.5×4.5 meters while the surrounding walls measures 7.2×7.2 meters. Four small laterite stupas locate also to the west of this bell-shaped chedi.
Archaeological excavation hasn’t provided any findings with inscription in Wat Mangkon site; therefore it is impossible to tell accurate building period of this construction. Despite this fact, Wat Mangkon represents highly important architectural monument within Arayavasi and directly associated with another famous temple called Wat Pa Mamuang, which becomes centre of development for Theravada Buddhism kingdom ruled by king Mahadharmarajadhiraja I Li-Thai during 1347-1368 CE.
I came across traditional Thai House during traveling towards another Monument. Traditional Thai architectural design includes wooden elevated buildings which demonstrate great adaptation towards environment. Actually raising the house higher helps protecting the place from heavy rains caused by Monsoons throughout the whole year. Open air under the building allows cooling due to wind breezing through such construction making the climate comfortable. Also this open space becomes very convenient for daily chores, storage or keeping cattle protected from any rodents or insects.
Wat Thup Kao
And there comes second Wat – Wat Thup Kao. It lies somewhere deep within Western zone in the forest part of the Sukhothai Historical Park area. It is a nice hidden temple complex amidst of the arid forests surrounded by the thin trees. It gives the same peaceful feeling of total connection to nature. While passing through the narrow trail the sound of leaves rustling becomes almost the only noise around. Just amazing atmosphere.
The key element of the Wat Thup Kao is obviously a brick Chedi with typical bell shape located above a square platform base. Upper finial has totally worn-out during the period of time and become totally eroded, but overall construction is really well-preserved. Moreover, there are remnants of the initial brick construction on the grounds with hints of assembly hall building around the main temple building.
When visiting this modest ruin, you definitely realize how beautiful Sukhothai’s Aranyawasi order really is – simple construction and complete harmony with nature. Not all orders are like this. Actually, bricks blend perfectly into the forest surrounding them and create such nice scenery on your historical trip around Sukhothai Historical Park.
Rough slate pathway leading up to Wat Tham Hip Lang, Sukhothai.
So I went to the other side of Wat Tham Hip Bon, in search of Wat Tham Hip Lang which is the second temple of twin sites. The translation of the name is quite simple – Lower Cave Chest temple and was meant as place of peaceful meditation for monks from Aranyakawasi sect of late Sukhothai era.
There are several ancient temples close-by, but unlike many of those, which consist mainly of brick construction, the temple complex consists mainly of stones. So basically climbing up the stone staircase located close-to the base of the hill brings you to the top and there I have met the remains of stone assembly hall (vihara) and main stone building-chedi.
Walking through those ancient paved stone steps in silence forests is making me imagine those monks climbing up exactly the same hill many years ago. And actually, the thought is coming in mind how peaceful everything was!
Wat Tham Hip Bon
So I climbed another hill, right next to Wat Tham Hip Lang, to visit the Wat Tham Hip Bon. It means literally the Upper Cave-Chest Temple.
There were some monks meditating under trees when arriving here and everything became quiet. Indeed, one feels isolated standing high here. Many monasteries situated on western slopes of Doi Suthep were built specifically for Aranyawasi order for forest monks. These monks have been practicing meditation in seclusion far away from the capital city.
While walking around the place, I walked straight ahead on the base of the laterite assembly hall vihara. Behind this building stands tall chedi shaped bell, which has four niches containing Buddha figures looking in the four directions.
Next to the main stupa there are two small brick structures built specifically for meditation practices. Alongside there are few small subordinate bell-like chedis standing on the hill. Actually, it was really relaxing standing there surrounded by the old bricks.
Wat Chedi Ngam
Going along the path composed from slate stones leads directly to Wat Chedi Ngam, the Temple of Beautiful Chedi! It is located on the hilltop in the West Zone. You can imagine yourself connected spiritually to the olden days of Sukhothai kingdom! The biggest feature of Wat Chedi Ngam is its massive bell-shaped stupa, which stands proudly on this highland and consists of four niches at the bottom level facing different directions and housing Buddha statues.
While exploring the place you will find how monastic life was combined with nature surroundings. Laterite foundation of the former vihara building is right next to other brick constructions made especially for Aranyawasi monks practicing Vipassana meditation alone. Beside the monastery there is one interesting construction made in the old times out of laterite soil layer. It is called reservoir used for watering needs while living upon the hills.
Wat Pa Daeng
When leaving the main trail, there appeared the ruins of Wat Pa Daeng, which means “Red Forest Temple.” I explored this little Monastery in the tranquil forest temple area of Sukhothai. According to the archaeological evidence and architectural style of Wat Pa Daeng, this small monastery dates back to the late period of Sukhothai – the late 14th – 15th centuries.
While walking in the ruins of this Monastery, the only thing which remained from the vihara assembly hall is its base without any surrounding walls. There is an indication that it follows the Aranyawasi order (the monk’s tradition) in the western part. Aranyawasi order means that those monks preferred isolated environments in the forest for their practice of intensive meditation, far away from the administrative duties and urban activities.
Behind the vihara assembly hall base, there is a ruin foundation of a main brick chedi which contains 4 niches in its appearance. These 4 niches are supposed to contain Buddha statue oriented towards the cardinal direction. As historians indicate, this architectural feature comes from the influence of Sri Lanka monasteries’ construction, which King Lithai brought from there.
Wat Kamphaeng Hin (Wat Kamphang Hin)
Then I cycled 2.3 km west to the forest temples area from the city wall passing through the old Or Gate. Inside dense jungle forest you could find Wat Kamphaeng Hin which translates to Stone Wall Temple. The name comes from the walls built of rough slate stone surrounding all the sanctuaries of this temple complex.
Entering the site, I visited the ruins of the five chambers assembly hall or vihara built in brick and stone material. The laterite columns supporting the roof in interiors could still be seen. There were clearly two stairs entrance row leading to the vihara building at its facade side. Not far from the assembly hall the foundations of the main chedi could be seen made out of bricks.
Wat Khao Phra Bat Noi
And today I decided to visit another zone within the province named Aranyik Forest zone. Going around 2.7 km west from the Or Gate and I found myself at Wat Khao Phra Bat Noi. It is located on a quiet mound amidst forest area with amazing architecture that I have ever seen before!
As I walked closer to the main chedi, I realized how incredible is its shape. It has a bell-shaped stupa with four niches where Buddha images should be placed. Moreover there are very thin lattices drawn in the shape of fishing net across its whole body. It is the only chedi with such decoration in this area! In front of it there is an outline of an assembly hall (vihara).
In historical context this place was home to four footprints of Buddha made of stone and all overlapped on each other. Now these prints can be seen at Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. In the backside of this main chedi there are ruins of small meditation quarters and huge laterite chedi foundation.
Wat Chang Rob
I continued moving deeper in the silent area of Wat Aranyik Forest Temple Complex. At last, I arrived to Wat Chang Rob which stands nearby the temples mentioned before. “Wat Chang Rob” translates directly as “Temple Encircled by Elephants.” And undoubtedly it is one of the best preserved ruin complexes buried deep in Western Hills!
The highlight point of this complex is huge chedi shaped as bell on the high square base. What makes this base really exceptional are the 24 elephant sculptures carved on this base. These elephants are holding this entire weighty construction on its backs. Sri Lankan tradition influenced such architectural style as elephants were seen as source of power and sacred grounding element. Close to main chedi stands foundation of uposatha ordination hall encircled by another 5 small chedis located outside of perimeter.
Looking at these weathered faces of elephants emerging from the laterite base under the shade of forest trees, I feel real spirituality of those monks who have built these marvelous structures!
Wat Aranyik
Then I was cycling toward the west direction for about 2.3 km to reach Wat Aranyik. This Wat located calmly at the foot of the hill in the center of the Forest Monastery Area. This Wat gives the name to its whole area. And the name originated from Sanskrit language term “Aranya” that means forest. Actually it had played important role being one of key locations of Vipassana monks during Sukhothai era.
Following old walkways with stones paved, leading between the two foundations of Uposatha Hall and Vihara Hall, I had reached to several foundations of small constructions. These were constructed separately especially for hermit monks who were practicing insight meditation here. Also closeby to the foundations there is rectangular shape well carved out from laterite rocks, and giving permanent water source for those hermits.
I stood there surrounded with these foundations, and imagine how calm and peaceful daily activities used to be.
Wat Saphan Hin
I continued cycling towards the west side around 2.3 kilometers till the place called Wat Aranyik. This temple locates in quite location on the base of the mountain located in the central part of the Forest Monastery Area. This temple gave its name to all surrounding areas. Its name comes from Sanskrit word “Aranya” meaning “forest”. Actually, this temple served very important function because it became one of crucial points for Vipassana monks living during the period of Sukhothai kingdom.
Going via ancient pathways, built from the stones connecting the two foundation buildings, Uposatha Hall and Vihara Hall, I reached the many small constructions. All these constructions located separately and specially for hermit monks performing the insight meditations here. Close to foundations of these constructions lies the well made in the form of rectangle cut directly into laterite rocks providing constant supply of water resources for monks.
Yes indeed, there was this kind of sign saying that it’s better to avoid visiting Wat Saphan Hin Temple alone after 4:30pm. Because there is history behind it… In 2007 the Japanese stage actress, Tomoko Kawashita aged 27 years old, was murdered on this territory! So stay safe as you never know!
So, after visiting Wat Saphan Hin Temple, I’ve ridden to the Food & Drink shop a couple kilomoeters away in order to buy some water. Finally I got some, and felt so happy about it!
Wat Traphang Chang Phueak
After refreshing myself with cold water I returned to Aranyika Forest Zone area in search of Wat Traphang Chang Phueak (“White Elephant Pond Temple”). With a front view towards rising eastern morning sun, the whole complex unfolds near the beautiful pond. While walking around I noticed slate framed openings right next to the pond bank. And there is also an ancient underground slate trough construction to transport water from round brick well into the pond.
Entering the main sanctum, I passed by the laterite pillars which formed base to the vihara building with a clay tile roofing. Four ruins of chedi buildings stand along the southern side of the assembly hall. Right behind this building is elevated laterite mandapa constructed specially with outer platform in order for the monks to walk round the sacred object.
There is history everywhere in this remote location! According to historical sources, there is an ancient inscription here of Aunt Nang Kham Yea of 1375 CE. In fact, she donated some money for restoring the monastery building at the time. After several centuries later, precisely in 1907 Crown Prince Vajiravudh or King Rama VI paid a visit to the very place and noted in his notes laterite pillars decorated with the lotus flower heads on the White Elephant Trap water reservoir.
The structure of laterite stacked in rings around tree’s stem is something that must be organized either by archaeologists or by local monks. It was evident because it seems like those pillars from the temple ruins, which became detached from their initial position, were gathered by someone in order to create such an installation around tree’s stem. This action made sense from many sides. Firstly, this structure provides protection for roots of the tree as any vehicle might hit tree’s root without noticing it or gardener while trimming grass may hurt it accidentally. Also laterite rocks are really useful material and they shouldn’t be dispersed. That is why such structure was created around tree’s trunk.
Wat Na Bing Deaw
And so today I decided to visit Wat Na Bing Deaw temple located 1,500 meters westwardly outside the Ancient City of Sukhothai within Sukhothai Forest Reserve. The Temple dates back approximately between 19th and 20th centuries BE (Christian era 14th-15th centuries). This ruins site is totally separated from any surrounding area.
As I walked further into vegetation, I encountered the foundation of Assembly Hall (Vihara). The construction was done by using massive laterite stone blocks filled inside with soil and topped with slate slabs flooring. Beside the hall is situated foundation of a main bell shaped Stupa built by square bricks. The whole structure of the stupa is ruined, only leaving three tiered squares and a tiny fragment of the Lotus base of it.
A large ditch surrounds both structures being around 6-7 meters wide! There was also rectangular puddle positioned in western side and round puddle made by square bricks measuring 1.4 meters in diameter located on northern direction. What a nice place in the forest!
On dry grassland of one of the pools, I have spotted some nice bird species called Red-wattled lapwing (Vanellus indicus)!
The western ruins no. 26
Then I proceeded a bit further, 50 meters west from Ho Thewalai Mahakaset Temple and found another interesting place “Western Ruins No. 26”. Surrounded with silence with dimensions of 60 x 90 meters, I was standing here in the same isolated mood I used to experience in the western hills area. The entire territory is fully enclosed within 7 meters wide old moat.
Moving forward on the premises of ruins, I headed directly to the central building called ubosatha. It is built mainly with bricks having size about 9 x 13 meters. The inner part consists of laterite columns carving and monks’ raised seat situated along the southern part surrounded with 8 stones sema demarcating the sacred area. Right beside the northern part, I’ve seen small sala with dimension of brickwork opened on both sides surrounded with short laterite walls. Further ahead there is a brick mandapa consisting of two chambers. Eastern and western steps lead to central building containing remains of brickwork Buddha statue inside mandapa.
Although no inscriptions were never discovered, the archaeologists assume that due to its design, construction and size it bears great similarity to its neighbor Wat Pa Mamuang, which was the center of Theravada Buddhism under the rule of king Maha Thammaracha I (Li Thai), who ruled 1347-1368.
While visiting it, I felt like these ruins played significant role in religious sphere in XIV century, which is hard to believe as it looks now, peacefully sitting under the trees.
Thewalai Mahakaset
So far I was wandering outside western walls of the city and finally stopped at Thewalai Mahakaset square brick shrine mandapa style. This particular point attracts attention due to its unique character. Being surrounded by many monasteries, it is actually Hindu religious place described by direct stone inscription at nearby Wat Pa Mamuang.
King Lithai Phra Maha Dharmaraja I according to inscription established in 1361 CE ordered creation of two bronze figures of gods Shiva and Vishnu in order to install them into the shrine for Brahmans’ worshiping purposes in 1349 CE. Just standing by these silent remains of brick structure it feels incredible to realize peaceful coexistence of religions those times. Both Hindu and Buddhist spiritual places peacefully existed together and both Hindu gods and Buddha monks lived side-by-side! Isn’t it amazing?
Those original bronze sculptures decorated with ornaments of god Shiva and Vishnu were moved away for safety reasons. They were relocated in museums; currently being exhibited in Bangkok National museum and Ramkhamhaeng National Museum of Sukhothai.
Wat Tuek (Wat Tuk)
I proceeded further to explore Wat Tuek in Aranyika Forest Zone area. It is situated approximately 160 meters south of Wat Pa Mamuang and 120 meters east of Ho Thewalai Mahakaset complex. This temple was constructed somewhere late 14th century, in the period of King Li Thai (reigned 1347-1368).
As I explored the area around, I paid attention mainly to the main construction – a square shaped brick mandapa. Decoration and design style remind the same ones as Wat Traphang Thonglang temple situated at eastern edge of Sukhothai city. Slate doorframe decorated entrance of this construction. Here archeologists discovered seated Buddha statue lying at the bottom of this construction. Terraced pathway leads to a ruined eastern vihara construction. Fourteen small stupas can be seen around perimeter of this area.
In the midst of the forest clearing with these constructions it seemed quite peaceful atmosphere and harmony between brick buildings and surrounding woods reminded the ancient sacred architecture style of Sukhothai Period!
Wat Pa Pai (Wat Pa Phai)
So, I went wandering again through the forest Aranyika, when discovered Wat Pa Pai. It is located approximately 320 meters to the south of Wat Pa Mamuang and 60 meters westwards from Wat Si Ton. Translated as “Bamboo Forest Temple,” this temple site represents another peaceful component of overall Wat Pa Mamuang Monastery Complex, established during 14th-15th centuries AD between the Kings Li Thai and Borommapan reign.
This complex covers the area of 35-by-55 meters inside the wide 10-meter moat that surrounds this area forming a unique water sanctuary! I have stepped through into the central structure of this complex which is a small 6-by-10 meter ordination hall (ubosatha) built of bricks with laterite carvings in it. As I entered via eastern stairs, I saw the eight sema foundations surrounding this building, with amazing two bodhi leaf-shaped stones marking the holy ritual place.
There are four stupas built at western side of ordination hall, protected by low inner wall. These stupas are constructed either for keeping religious relics or ashes of important priests. Amongst these four stupas there is biggest one measuring 4-by-4 meters.
Wat Si Thon (Wat Sri Ton)
Continued my walk through the paths, situated to the west of Sukhothai area to reach the temple of Wat Si Thon. The temple is historically significant as the place where senior monk from Sri Lanka resided during the 14th century and possessed a deep knowledge concerning the Tripitaka. According to the historical documents, he created the elegiac poem about King Li Thai or Phra Maha Dharmaraja I, dated as far back as 1361 CE. His name hasn’t been mentioned yet.
While approaching ruins I can see its classic layout characteristic for the temples built in Ancient Ages. As usual, the place of worship for Buddha differs from assembly hall where ordinary believers can gather. Architectural masterpiece in the center is square mandapa built with massive brick wall in order to hold a brick construction on top. Mandapa stands exactly behind vihara hall with tiled roof of wood materials. That means that whole mandapa construction was erected in order to create a focus attention effect on principal Buddha idol in the middle.
Standing amidst such silent trees, I really felt myself inside this historic place where science was mixed up with spirituality in architecture.
Wat Pa Mamuang Tawan Tok
So today I decided to visit the ruins in forest of Aranyika area – Wat Pa Mamuang Tawan Tok also known as “Western Mango Grove Temple”. The trail led to this place about 700 meters west from the Western Guard Post beyond the old City Wall.
It was very quiet place! The construction dates from 14-15 centuries AD. It is considered that this temple has been constructed under King Maha Thammaracha I (Li Thai).
When I entered the compound, firstly I have gone around the rectangle base foundation of the main Vihara – assembly hall. Foundations are constructed in laterite material. Only outer edges of the frame survived, while inside is filled up with soil floor. At the end of the building, facing west direction there is small square chukchi base foundation with four re-entrant corner projections. This was supposed to be the base foundation for the principal Buddha Image. Right after it located the main brick chedi. It was constructed as the square based prasat type chedi spire tower with four re-entering corner projections. Unfortunately, time destroyed most parts of this building leaving only the central body part called Ruen That with the pillar frames for the ancient niche.
Wat Traphang Kradan
This morning, I was continuing the journey about 800 meters west from the city gate checkpoint to visit the Wat Traphang Kradan. This temple is located facing eastwards towards rising sun direction, where there is nothing written. According to archaeology findings it was built between the 14th-15th centuries AD. Most probably during the reign of King Li Thai (Maha Thammaracha I).
Walking up the central axis, I reached the rectangular base of the assembly hall (viharas). Inside there is a rectangular brick lotus base near the middle part of this rectangular brick building and another circular lotus base constructed from bricks and laterite stone near the western end of this vihara.
Behind this vihara stands the main brick chedi constructed in the shape of bell stupa built over the square base, and above it stands the eight-sided base. It turned out really amazing as due to partial destruction of outer pagoda building, it appeared that there existed the older lotus bud chedi inside which was enclosed with new additional construction, with extra niches added for Buddhas’ statues facing east. About 90 meters to the west behind this main chedi I discovered another rectangular building constructed with bricks with soil fill and decorated with stucco cornices, having internal partition brick wall. One ruined building is left to meditate over!
My eye sclera was hurting a lot and became red due to the dust coming from the gravel roads and from the wind! So please protect your eyes when cycling around here!
Quick Stop for a Fresh Fruit Smoothie
After visiting my last temple in Western Sukhothai, I returned directly back to Central Sukhothai through the same Broken Wall gate. Not long afterwards I approached the Sukhothai Historical Park entrance area. There was a small stall market there and people selling various fruit smoothies from it. All prices however were written in Thai language so good luck understanding how many baht you should pay for certain drink. I ordered a mango smoothie in a big cup. Though quite watery it was tasty and refreshing. I paid ฿ 40 (~1£) for the drink.
Search of a Bus Stop to Go Back to New Sukhothai
The deadline to return back my bicycle hire was at 5:00 pm and currently it was already 4:30 pm. While returning back to the hostels from park, I passed by another bike hire shop which seemed to be closer to the park. Not only it was closer but the quality of bicycles seemed also much better. Additionally, I noticed that the bicycle hire shop rented bicycles for children as well. Without any hesitation, I dropped off the bike right away and headed to look for a bus terminal which was somewhere near the New Sukhothai location. Finally I have spotted bus terminal by roadside and timetable close to it.
Suddenly, I came across beautiful Phuang Malai hanging from the rough surface of tree trunk. That was something really special, giving you the feeling of connection with spirituality existing alongside everyday life!
I was observing how beautifully those bright yellow flowers of marigold contrasted with delicate jasmine flowers, surrounded with lovely pink ribbons. Those locals use floral garlands to decorate the trees considered sacred as it is believed to house spirits. That is done either to show reverence towards the spirit dwelling there or just wishing for easy journey.
And finding such silent gesture right amidst my walk became one of the highlights of this particular day!
I am starving! No food eaten yet today. I found close by restaurant (it might be called a restaurant? more like local canteen). Anyway, I have ordered Tom Yum Soup bowl and ohh, how delicious! Very light spicy taste of this soup! I could feel that it is hot! It has floating pieces of whole dried red chilli peppers, kaffir lime leaves, lemon grass and galanga root in it!
Also, I ordered another meal called Pad Thua Lanteow Gai. It is Thai style stir fried dish including tasty chicken, crunchy carrots and crispy peas. And the best thing here are those crunchy bits of fried garlic everywhere! I ordered Chang beer, obviously!
I had lots of time before bus departure and I actually finished several bottles sitting in restaurant, observing sky changing its colour. Bill was something about ฿400 (£10)! It costs nothing and what about spending two hours here and enjoying orange-red sunset sky view?
My mouth full of saliva now while remembering taste of this incredible Thai food.
As 6:30 pm started approaching I have gone little bit earlier for the bus stop point in order to find seat for the return trip. As the bus stopped I have taken the seat. Actually, we have sat outside the wooden bus. So I felt nice air cooling while watching landscapes flying away from the seats.
The route was very nice indeed! Firstly, when we pass Wat Traphang Thong, there is a glow of the temple chedi lights and market stalls on the shore against a beautiful pink evening sky. Then, when travelling further on the road there is a streetlight view of the locals living lives riding on motorcycles, running or walking along the road and even dog crossing the road. And the background is really colorful. Arriving in town center we saw even more bright lights hanging everywhere. Canopies of red Chinese lanterns glowing everywhere. At the end of our trip we arrived in front of very lively illuminated dragons.
At 6:56 pm I arrived at New Sukhothai railway station. There the same orange cat that I met yesterday welcomed me once again. I went directly to my accommodation in RuengSriSiRi guest house located just opposite railway station. As soon as I entered into room I felt really awful smell coming from rabbit hutches, but they were really very adorable little creatures. And I ordered again ice-cold Chang beer and sat at open-air table just to relax a little. And during evening time I watched huge amount of termites flying around light bulbs. They weren’t biting me at least!
And finally, today was great day of cycling around the ruins on the rented bicycle! Western part was fantastic and majority of time I was walking in solitude on the ruins! Too many Buddha statues to see during only one day trip! It’s hard to imagine but I’ve even done several loops around the Central zone within Sukhothai Historical Park using my GoPro.
But unfortunately it was impossible to visit the northern part and other temples as there was no sufficient time and more reasons appeared why to return again to this place someday. Of course, I was thirsty during the trip as it was extremely hot outside. However, I managed to cope with this situation successfully and everything went well without any troubles.
If you found this review useful don’t hesitate and write comments or give suggestions, I’ll appreciate that!
Tips for Sukhothai Historical Park
- Stay a night in Old Sukhothai, so you have couple days to explore the Historical Park
- Plan your transport, either it is taxi or a bus and do book it in advance as from what I saw the bus to Chiang Mai was quite busy.
- Have in mind that New Sukhothai is quite far from Old Sukhothai around 12 to 13 kilometers (7.5 to 8 miles). It is not feasible (though somewhat possible if you like long distance walking) to just walk as the road is made for cars mainly and cycling would take time too as even that bus takes around 45 minutes.
- If you’re planning to take that public bus, be at the stop earlier. Also, if you are trying to board it in the other stops, there is a big chance that it will be full and it won’t stop, so do have an alternative plan in place (taxi or tuk tuk).
- Last, but not the least – HAVE PLENTY OF WATER WITH YOU! Once you leave the central part of the park, there will be nowhere to buy water. I would recommend having at least 1 litre or even 1.5 litre of water on a hot day. Learn from my mistake!
- Have small baht notes for buying water as you will be able to pay only cash and some small shops might not have the change.
- Don’t miss Wat Si Chum, which has a big sitting Buddha enclosed in walls. In general leave time to exlpore the Northern part, which I didn’t.
- Don’t miss Wat Saphan Hin, which has a big standing Buddha.
- Visit Saphan Boon Wat Traphang Thong. which. is an active buddhist temple.
- Tips how to get to New Sukhothai can be found here.