Morocco, a nation celebrated for its vibrant culture and stunning landscapes, is facing a silent but growing crisis: the pollution and trash problem. As a developing country with a rapidly urbanizing population, Morocco is producing an ever-increasing volume of solid waste, with an estimated 5.5 million tons generated annually in urban areas alone. While the government has made significant strides in waste collection, with a remarkable increase from a 40% collection rate in 2008 to 96% in 2022, a major challenge remains in the disposal and treatment of this waste. The majority of collected trash still ends up in unsanitary open dumps, posing a severe threat to public health and the environment. This issue extends beyond a simple aesthetics problem; it is a complex web of environmental, social, and economic challenges that demands a comprehensive and innovative approach. It seems that my readers enjoy reading more about dark toursim than the normal one. Hence, another article about pollution and trash.
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Atlas mountains
The views in Atlas mountains are stunning and literally breath taking. However, once I walked a bit to the side behind Café Double Vue I saw a big pile of cans and broken bottles. Bottles pose a fire risk in such bright sunlight. Also pay attention to the pile on the left, in between rocks. It seems they attempted to burn the cans or maybe there was accidental fire due to broken bottles as a lot of those cans had burn marks. It is a stark contrast between fresh mountain air and beautiful views and a pile of rubbish, tucked away behind the rocks.
To be honest, that was the only place I saw trash in Atlas mountains, except a lot of rubble after recent earthquakes in the region, but that is understandable and people seem to be rebuilding their lives.
There was a funny moment, when I saw a pile of plastic on the last day of the hike in the valleys of Imlil and I pointed that to the guide. He just took those bottles of plastic and put them under the rock, left to decay for another 450 years.
Marrakesh and Malnourished Cats
Morocco’s enchanting city of Marrakesh, a labyrinth of bustling souks and serene riads, presents a captivating facade. Yet, beyond the polished exterior lies a stark reality. While the city’s main arteries are swept and maintained with impressive efficiency, a closer look reveals a grittier truth. The pervasive dust, a constant companion on the unpaved paths and in the dry air, coats everything in a fine, ochre layer. The rubbish is mostly noticeable around Suk areas late in the evening when the streets gets empty or in the early morning, while everyone is still asleep.
I was really surprised when I saw piles of rubbish behind Rubbish behind Place des 7 Saints, but when I was going back to my Riad it was all gone – sparkling clean. I guess in urban areas the public spaces are regularly cleaned.
This dusty landscape is also home to a more heartbreaking sight: the city’s stray cats. These felines, once revered in Islamic tradition, now roam the streets, many malnourished and neglected, though it seems locals do leave them water and some food. Their gaunt frames and listless eyes are a testament to their struggle for survival, a poignant contrast to the vibrant energy of the city. While the authorities are quick to clean up the trash, the plight of these animals often goes unnoticed, a silent testament to a more profound issue. Especially, their struggle is visible in the empty streets at night as it is much easier to notice them and they come up, like me, to strangers looking for food. You can help those poor cats by donating to Moroccan Animal Shelter directly or through JustGiving to Spana organisation helping animals in Morocco .
Adding to the complex sights and smells of Marrakech are the city’s pigeons. You’ll often see locals and tourists alike feeding huge flocks of them, an old tradition that brings a flurry of wings and coos to the squares. While it might seem charming at first, this practice leaves a less-than-pleasant aftermath. Inevitably, large piles of pigeon droppings accumulate, creating a noticeable stench and turning picturesque corners into unsightly messes. It’s a vivid example of how local customs, while well-intentioned, can clash with modern urban cleanliness. It is just a ticking bomb waiting for some bird flu outbreak to happen.
But no place captures this contrast quite like the Ben Youssef Madrasa, a stunning historical college that serves as a nesting ground for thousands of pigeons. While the intricate architecture and serene courtyards are breathtaking, a word of caution is in order. As you navigate the hallowed halls, you’ll be on high alert, dodging droppings and enduring a powerful stench that hangs heavy in the air. Even in the cooler December weather, the odour from the accumulated waste is pervasive, a foul and unforgettable backdrop to this architectural masterpiece.
Some rubble on the streets was a common sight here as well. I guess it the same result as in Imlil after the earthquake in 2023..
To see a different side of Marrakech, you might be drawn to the city’s famous tanneries, known for their traditional leather-making. But be ready for a truly intense sensory experience. The air here is heavy with unpleasant odors from the skin-processing work, a powerful scent that you won’t soon forget. Scattered among the vats and drying hides are piles of rubbish in the ditches, a sad buffet for the local cats and birds. And as a final note of caution, you’ll likely find yourself fighting for your life, when you will be asked to pay a much higher price that you bargained for to even get a glimpse of this unique, and smelly, sight.
Another sight on the streets of Marrakech, on the way to the stunning Jardin Majorelle, is the line of horse-drawn carriages waiting for tourists. While they are a popular attraction, the reality is far less charming. You can smell the horses from across the street, a powerful stench that’s hard to ignore. Many of these animals appear malnourished and even sick, with wounds on their legs, a really heartbreaking sight.
These horses are the lifeblood of many families—a single carriage supports up to five families, from the owners to the drivers. However, due to the collapse of tourism in 2020, they have been struggling immensely. I only saw a few people riding in these carriages, and I wouldn’t have gotten into one for any amount of money, primarily because of the overpowering smell. You can help by donating to Spana, who is helping working animals in Morocco.
Perhaps the heart of Marrakech is Jemaa el-Fnaa, a square that truly comes alive at night. It’s a mesmeresing scene, with tourists flocking to see traditional musicians, explore the bustling food market, and watch the performances of dancing monkeys and cobras. While it’s a spectacle to behold, you should be careful where you step to avoid getting too close to the wildlife.
The true state of the square, however, is revealed in the harsh light of morning. Despite being washed—as evidenced by the puddles—the ground still appears grimy, a stark contrast to the previous night’s magic. Another challenge is the public toilet. While it only costs 0.5 MAD to use, the overwhelming stench and soaking wet floor make for an unforgettable experience. I couldn’t help but wonder about the purpose of the benches with drainage in the middle. Most of the public toilets will require you to squat, but that’s a common practice for hygienic reasons.
Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou and Hidden Trash
Exploring the magnificent Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou—a place made famous by epic films like Gladiator and The Mummy, and even parts of Game of Thrones—is truly awe-inspiring. Yet, even in this historic monument, a disappointing sight caught my eye. Some clearly visible trash were scattered in the gaps between buildings and along the riverbanks. It’s a popular tourist destination, and you’d expect the locals to take more pride in keeping it clean, especially since they rely so heavily on tourism. But it’s clear that even the stray dogs are left to navigate a landscape littered with waste.
After exploring the stunning Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou, our tour took us to Tinghir, offering a glimpse into local life. We visited a beautiful garden where residents grow their own vegetables. Yet, as we left and followed the stream toward the Todgha Gorge, a shocking sight unfolded: the banks of the otherwise scenic waterway were choked with plastic trash. It was a disheartening contrast to the vibrant, sustainable life we had just witnessed.
Trash on the Way to Merzouga Dessert
While the Merzouga Dessert was a truly a spectacular sight and experience worth a nine-hour journey from Marrakesh, the landscape on the way there told a different story. As we got closer to Merzouga, the fields and roadsides became increasingly littered with trash. It was a stark reminder that as you move away from the main tourist hubs, the effort to clean up seems to disappear. It suggests that in these more remote areas, the environmental consciousness and infrastructure for waste management are either lacking or simply not a priority. It seems that those fields are really struggling with trash more than other places in Morocco.
Beautiful Essaouira and Abandoned Cats
Essaouira, a coastal gem of a city, was a truly captivating sight. The port was a spectacle of vibrant blue fishing boats bobbing in the water, their color a striking contrast to the white-walled city. Despite the general cleanliness of the city, some spots were less appealing. The fish stalls, in particular, were a magnet for seagulls. The ground around them was covered in droppings, a testament to the birds’ relentless hunt for a lucky meal. Some of the buckets by the stalls were so filthy they looked like they hadn’t been cleaned in years, a stark and unpleasant contrast to the otherwise charming port.
Beyond the stunning harbour, the city itself was a bustling maze of life. Local markets spilled out onto the streets, and the air was filled with the sounds of vendors and the energy of daily life. Unlike some of its larger counterparts, Essaouira felt remarkably clean. Only a few scattered, messy stalls or leftover carts hinted at the day’s activity, a small price to pay for the city’s undeniable charm and seems doesn’t have trash prolem like other places in Morocco.
Yet, a familiar sight from Marrakech reappeared: the stray cats. Here, they are just as common, and many appear just as malnourished. However, the felines near the port seem to have a slight advantage in the struggle for survival. With the constant unloading of the day’s catch, they occasionally get a lucky break, scoring a small fish or two as a treat. It’s a small mercy in an otherwise difficult life on the streets.
Despite these less-than-charming observations, my overall experience in Morocco was truly unforgettable. What I’ve highlighted here is merely a glimpse of the country’s challenges. The dusty streets, while a constant presence, fade into the background as you become immersed in the country’s vibrant culture despite growing trash problem in Morocco. The food was spectacular, and the landscapes and historical sights were breathtaking. Morocco, in all its complexity, is a place that leaves a lasting impression.