We woke up at 4:30 am for the second day of Inca Trail, with a day of 18 km of steep Inca steps ahead of us of.
- Uncas Forest
- Steep Inca steps
- Llulluchapampa
- Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwañusca)
- Paqaymayu alto
- Runqurakay (Runkuwasi) archaeological site
- Runqurakay pass
- Sayaqmarca (Inkarmana) archaeological site
- Chakiqocha campsite
I felt a bit tired after day 1 hike, but my legs didn’t hurt at all. Well not all of it was steps and a big part of trail to the Dead Woman Pass was just gravel, but from there it was mostly stone Inca steps. Our guide asked if we are awake and if we want coca tea in our tent. It was quite cold in the tent in the morning (around 5-7°C) even with my thermal under armour once out from the sleeping bag. So the piping hot tea was a real delight to warm up while legs still in the sleeping bag, boosting the mood and energy for the day!
First we had to pack all our sleeping bags and stuff into duffel bags and get everything out of the tens before breakfast, so that porters can pack the mat and inflatable mattress and the tent while we have the breakfast. Our day packs with walking sticks were left out outside on the big square blue plastic cover.
It was time for breakfast at 5:05 am. The table looked really impressive with fruit, ham & cheese and pancakes. They even gave warm porridge!
After our breakfast we were provided a snack to pick up for our day: a pack of digestives and a maracuya fruit (tastes similar to passion fruit). Just before leaving the porters weighted all our duffel bags and couple people were cheeky and sneaked in extra weight to their duffel bags. They were asked to take it out from their bags, so that it was 7kg.
At 5:51 am we left on our way to Dead Woman’s pass. The forest looked much more green and lush, with thick moss on the tree branches.
Uncas Forest
The Uncas forest is a unique ecosystem found along the Inca Trail on the second day of the trek. It’s characterized by the presence of the Uncas tree (Myrcianthes oreophylla), a native Andean tree that creates a lush, green canopy.
The Uncas forest plays a crucial role in the local ecosystem, helping to regulate water flow and providing habitat for various species of birds (hummingbirds, tanagers, and the majestic Andean Condor) and other wildlife (an elusive Andean bear, various butterflies and beetles).
Steep Inca steps
Soon after the steep stone Inca steps started. Some steps were better than others, but some were really worn out and in some places you could see the porters even made paths next to them on the slope of the hill, sometimes going straight through the slope and cutting off the stairs completely making their path shorter but steeper. I guess it makes sense, as those steps can be very slippery when it rains and also you need to lift your feet higher than going on a flat path.
One person in our group have started bleeding from her nose. It was just an hour or so after we started the day hike. The paper in the nose was not stopping it, but our guide was taking care of it, so we left them and continued walking up the trail.
It felt like those stone stairs will never end. After one set of stairs another set of stone stairs followed. Also this strip of long stairs didn’t have any toilets either, so I had to stop just on the side of the path and pee into the bushes, even when people were passing by as I didn’t want to wait forever until no one is there. No one cared to be honest.
Finally, I could see the mountain tops, which was the sign that we are out of these woods and hopefully of those steep steps. Also we caught up with the girl who had a nose bleed. She had coca leaves stuffed in her nose and it seems stopped the bleeding. When we asked her how she was feeling, she started crying, saying that it was embarrassing. We just explained that there was nothing to be embarrassed – it happens and the most important that she is alright and can continue the trail.
Llulluchapampa
We have reached Llulluchapampa and an amazing green valley between mountains was just breathtaking. It had a lot of llamas and donkeys eating grass. We even spotted a black llama, which is rare and they are used for sacrificial purposes (like any other black animals which are considered pure if they are black).
Llulluchapampa fosters Meso-Andean forests, which are rich in valuable timber species like Andean cedar (Cedrela angustifolia) and pisonay (Erythrina falcata), though they are threatened by overexploitation, due to the timber use. These forests once harboured diverse wildlife, including white-tailed deer and Andean deer.
Once we passed Llulluchapampa sign we came out to the green grasslands and there was also a proper toilet! Some women were also selling the drinks and beer, where it seems my Canon Powershot SX70 HS has stopped storing photos into my SD card, due to corrupted SD card, so almost all photos from this day on Canon were lost. So sad!
I found it very hard to climb to Dead Woman’s pass. I kept stopping to take a breath after each 4-5 steps. Sometimes I would attempt 7-10 steps, but then I was completely out of breath, but despite of difficulties whenever I stopped to get my breath back I would take pictures of nature, butterflies, llamas and bird (most of the photos lost unfortunately). I got some good shots of butterflied (and no they are not moths!). It took me hours to identify those butterflies below (or at least I think I identified). Luckily some photos were taken on my phone on day 2. It was 8:17 am.
Peruvian Puna Skipper (Hylephila peruana) butterflies are easily recognizable by their dark brown upper wings with striking orange or yellow markings. The undersides are typically yellowish with contrasting brown or black spots.
Hylephila peruana is one of several similar species inhabiting the Andean grasslands. Many of these species are endemic to specific Peruvian regions, making precise identification and distribution understanding is challenging.
The stone road kept going up and so many times I thought that the highest spot is just around the corner, but no. It was still a lot of steps ahead. I kept chewing coca leaves like candy (I had coca candies too and ate most of them too!). It was giving a little bit of boost to be able to continue as it was getting quite hot on top of not being able to breathe, despite the altitude. The higher I went the faster I was breathing as the air was getting thinner.
Puya aequatorialis is a striking bromeliad native to the high-altitude regions of the Andes Mountains, particularly in Ecuador and Peru. Known for its dramatic appearance, this plant boasts spiky leaves and a towering, densely flowered inflorescence. It’s a testament to the resilience of life in extreme environments, thriving in the harsh conditions of the Andean highlands.
I literally thought, that this is it and this was the end of those Inca steps to Dead Woman’s pass, but nooo…
10:31 am. Finally, I could see the steps to the top! 4200m just 20 steps away. I was breathing harder and harder as I was so high (no not from Coca, but in the high altitude) and I could feel the air being so thin, which was only around 12% instead of 21% of oxygen, which means you need to inhales twice as much to get the same amount of oxygen.
At 10:31 am I finally reached Dead Woman’s pass!
Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwañusca)
The actual name of “Dead Woman’s Pass” is a translation from the Quechua word “Warmiwañusca”. The name is derived from the shape of the pass, which some say resembles a reclining woman with two breasts. The name is just a metaphorical interpretation and doesn’t refer to any actual historical event or tragedy, even though some deaths happen from time to time on Inca trail, but it never was on the trail leading to Dead Woman Pass.
After some group photos and a short rest at 10:49 am we were continuing the trail, just now down the mountain. The steps seemed quite steep and quite worn out. Using walking poles did help a bit to climb down.
I could see the porters from another company rushing down the trail. They were not walking, but almost running down!
Most of the steps were very uneven and some stones were quite wobbly and moving when you step on them. Luckily so far we had no rain!
I’ve turned around again to take some pictures of the steps, as they don’t look so impressive when you are shooting them down from above.
I was so glad to see a flat surface as my knees were already feeling some pressure form going down. I didn’t have pain per say (probably due to Coca leaves), but it wasn’t easy to go down either.
Paqaymayu alto
Pacaymayu Alto is a unique ecological zone where humid grassland and montane forest converge, creating a diverse habitat for animals like vizcachas, picuros, pajonal cats, and tigrillos, as well as various plant species.
We stopped for lunch at 1:10 pm. I didn’t take photos of our lunch though.
At 1:49 pm we were already on our way towards our final camp.
The clouds were gathering and it was looking it might rain, which was a bit worrying. However, I was telling the group that it won’t rain as my lucky charm won’t allow it. Also, I suddenly saw more steps… We were told that we will go up around 350m elevation before going down in total around 6 km.
Runqurakay (Runkuwasi) archaeological site
Runcuracay, at 3760 m altitude, is a unique circular Inca ruin practically on the Inca Trail. This site, accessible only by hiking the trail, likely served as a rest stop for Inca messengers. Its remote location and distinctive shape make it a fascinating historical site. Currently it is missing the roof that used to cover the site, but the walls are very well preserved. While clearly it’s a many times smaller site compared to Machu Picchu, its intriguing architecture and beautiful mountain setting make it a worthwhile visit for hikers.
We kept pushing further and more steps followed. Never ending!
We’ve started hearing thunder so it seemed that it is going to rain. Everyone put their rain pants on them, but I had just water resistant ones. I didn’t think to by the proper rain pants! I was worried!
Runqurakay pass
At 3970 m altitude there is Runqurakay pass. Runqurakay Pass is a sacred place for Andean people, where religious offerings are made to the “Apus”, the divine spirits of the mountains.
Also it marks the start of Q’euña forests (Polylepis), dominated by the Polylepis genus, are unique high-altitude ecosystems found in the Andes Mountains. These hardy trees are well-adapted to survive in extreme conditions, including cold temperatures, strong winds, and low oxygen levels. Q’euña forests play a crucial role in maintaining biodiversity, regulating water flow, and preventing soil erosion.
At 4:27 pm I could see the Pacaymayo river through thick fog. No sign of rain though.
I was going down and the fog was getting more transparent and at 4:33 pm I could see Pacaymayo river quite clearly.
The Pacaymayo River is a vital water source for the communities living in the Andes Mountains. It provides water for agriculture, drinking, and other essential needs. Additionally, the river contributes to the biodiversity of the region, supporting a variety of plant and animal life. It is also an important cultural and historical resource, as it has been used by Andean people for centuries.
The trail was getting flatter a bit and less and less steps.
Sayaqmarca (Inkarmana) archaeological site
At 5:00 pm I’ve reached Sayaqmarca (“Eagle’s Nest”) archaeological site. This site is believed to have served as an administrative center, a religious sanctuary, and a military outpost controlling access to Machu Picchu. Its strategic location and well-preserved structures provide valuable insights into the Inca civilization’s advanced engineering and architectural skills. Unfortunately, it had a 100 steps to get to it and it was getting late and I still had to get to the camp, so I’ve just taken the picture of the stairs.
Then after some time I’ve passed a nice little bridge and I could see all those terraces.
Chakiqocha campsite
At 5:32 I’ve reached Chakiqocha campsite and I was still alive and walking. Washed my face and hands and couldn’t wait to take off my boots. I was exhausted and not in the best mood. I just wanted to be left alone.
We were lucky that it didn’t rain at all! I was joking that the girl who had a nose bleed has made a blood sacrifice to the Incan goods and they accepted it.
At 6:19 pm we had our “happy hour” time and dinner followed soon after. I couldn’t wait to lay down in my tent and sleep.
The next day adventure was awaiting…