- Salapunku Inca Site by Urubamba
- Qhanabamba Inca Sites by Urubamba
- Llactapata Inca Site by Urubamba
- Patallacta Inca Site by Urubamba
- Hatunchaca lunch stop
- Patawasi Archaeological Sanctuary
- Ayapata – 1st camping site
The first day of Inca Trail was finally here, which made me fearful of upcoming hike, but also excited as we were supposed to see different Inca Sites by Urubamba river. We all woke up early at 3:30 am. I jumped into shower and again it was a cold shower! After that we all double checked our bags if we packed all what was required. Then it was time to weight our duffel bags (that were given by Alpaca Expeditions last night at briefing) as we had 4 kg to fill last night (3 kg were reserved for air mattress and sleeping bag out of 7kg). Luckily, I had my portable scales, so I could weight our duffel bags and bags, as there were none in Airbnb (most of the hotels in Cusco do have scales). I filled my 3 litre camel bag with bottled water (I bought a 2.5 litre bottle for 5 PEN nearby our Airbnb) and I was ready to go.
I was eagerly waiting for them to pick us up, though I was worried about my stomach as I was already suffering from diarrhea for couple of days, though that morning I did feel much better already. Also my nose was feeling very dry, with some blood clots from the dry and cold air, which was exacerbating my breathing difficulties in this high altitude. I was very worried and scared to be honest and I was even joking that we can turn back after the first day of hike if needed listening one of the podcasts on Spotify.
Finally, just a bit after 4:00 am Carlos (a second guide) showed up at our doorstep. We took our day backpacks, duffel bags and luggages down the road with us. It felt like a sheep being led to the slaughter – everyone was very silent. Only 5-7 min later we’ve boarded the bus with our suitcases, but that walk felt like eternity as the scary hike was about to come reality. Once we boarded the bus went downtown to Alpaca Expeditions to unload all of the suitcases and pickup the rest of the folk from downtown. Amazingly, when we gave the suitcases they all have been labelled with our guide names, so they could deliver back suitcases pretty efficiently for multiple groups. Also the luggage storage did not cost any extra, which was great!

First, after an hour and a half ride in bus, where we could have a nap and were given warm blankets to cover up, we stopped in a small shop, equipped with a lot of bathrooms. I also bought some coca candies (it was around 10 PEN per packet) in that store. Also I must say they had a very beautiful garden. Once everyone was ready we were heading to another stop to have our breakfast.

The breakfast table was ready when we arrived with some nice cake bread, fruit and cereal (granola), milk and hot water for the tea/coffee provided. I’ve made my coca leave tea before hike and a light breakfast as my stomach was still feeling a bit funny.


After our breakfast we were heading back to our bus and then to Piscacucho near Ollantaytambo to start our hike. Once we had our gear ready, we were given short instructions and overview of what animals we can expect on the trek. All of the animals were painted on the wall of the museum building too, which we had to pass through those gates to start the trek. However, we were told that to see pumas you have to be extremely lucky as they avoid humans.

We had some steps and muddy road to go down for the checkpoint and crossing the river.

We had to cross the rails, which actually lead to Machu Picchu to continue to our trek entrance.

We stopped ad Inca Trail sign to take group and individual photos. I was surprised how well the guides were organised collecting everyone’s phones and taking with all of them the group pics! I felt very motivated and couldn’t get started the trail, even it was only 8:53 am!

Next was to pass via checkpoint and to cross Urubamba river bridge to continue on our journey.

After checking our passport (the person didn’t even look at the face, just passport number and checked in their paper), we crossed the narrow pedestrian bridge.

Salapunku Inca Site by Urubamba
The first inca site we saw at 9:00 am was on the other side of Urubamba river was Choquellusca Terraces Inca Site (Choquelluska), which was recenlty restored (finished in 2023) as part of Salapunku Archeological Site. All 14 Inca terraces were restored and the restoration took 44 months, which cost almost 2 billion USD.

A short walk after those terraces you are able to see Salapunku archeological site (first of the important Inca sites by Urubamba river on Inca trail) across the river, which our guides forgot to mention unfortunately, so except of the terraces above I did not take any photo of it. Also, given it was restored quite recently, you won’t see them on Google maps properly either (it is not even on Google maps for that matter and I’ve submitted to add the location!). This site was an early Inca settlement and has yielded numerous skeletons and artifacts (ceramics and textiles), indicating a significant presence in the area.
The name ‘Salapunku’ likely refers to the large doorway, a prominent feature on a platform that serves as a street. Behind this entrance, we find cyclopean stonework, platforms, and the remnants of stairways, roads, and aqueducts. Also, just like the iconic walls of Sacsayhuaman near Cusco, the walls of Salapunku are built with colossal stones fitted together in a distinctive zigzag pattern looking like teeth, which you can even see on the satellite photos on Google maps. Additionally, these walls also have a monumental gate, believed to be the gateway to Machu Picchu from the Sacred Valley.

Soon after on the path we could see the porters passing us swiftly with their big backpacks. I thought my backpack was heavy!

Before we reached our first rest stop we could see some of the porters already resting as it was quite warm outside and almost an hour walking already.

Qhanabamba Inca Sites by Urubamba
A couple minutes later at 10:00 am we reached our resting stop with the second Inca site, one of well preserved Inca Sites by Urubamba river, which we could see accross the river, called Qhanabamba (K’anabamba or Q’hanamarca). Our guide told us explicitly not to call it ruins, but call it site instead, since it was never discovered and destroyed by Spanish conquistadors. Also remember that most of these Inca site names are given not by Inca but by archeologist who discovered them, as Inca had no written language (except quipu knots) so no records of those place names exists.
Qhanabamba is a plain (pampa in Quechua) where ‘qhana’ grass grows. Located at kilometer 85 of the railroad line, it features a series of one-story buildings and a larger, two-story structure. You can easily see it from Inca trail. Originally believed to be a simple Inca tambo (in Quechua means “inn” or “way station”), traveler’s rest stop, this site may have had a more complex purpose. It could have housed lookouts or soldiers guarding the pass. Recent discoveries, including a huaca (deities or spiritual objects in Quechua) and an aqueduct, suggest a larger settlement than previously imagined.
We were also told by our guide that by this complex a commercial Inca trail used to run, which was an easier way to transport the goods to Machu Picchu, but to day this trail is very deteriorated and mostly destroyed when building the railway to Machu Picchu, due to the government thinking it had little importance at that time.



We continued our path on the left side of the river. Sometimes I turned around to look at the path that we walked already and sometimes I was amazed by the view behind.

The road turned into a bit more overgrown area and we could see more stone steps and at some point I had to use my walking sticks to climb them as I was really struggling and getting out of breath. Luckily, it was our second stop at 10:40 am in a very nice recreational area, where you could sit on benches and even beach chair, if you were among the first ones to make it there, buy some drinks or visit a bathroom. There was quite a lot of bathroom on the way already, but most of them you have to pay 1 PEN.

You could also climb a small hill which had a nice overlook of Urubamba river.

After 20 min of resting we were continuing on our path. At some point I’ve even managed to get ahead of some people and I could see them walking on the trail from higher vantage point on the trek.

It was getting quite warm to walk and I was drinking a lot of my water. Luckily next stop was around 30 min after, at 11:30 am, and it had a shade! Our guides were having chicha de jora, a fermented alcoholic beverage made from a special type of corn called jora with a low alcohol content (1-3%) and a slightly sour taste, but we were told not to try it there as it might be not safe. Historically it was made by chewing corn to break down the starches, but that is not used anymore. Oh yes, and don’t mix it up with Chicha Morada as that one is non-alcoholic and purple in colour.

Llactapata Inca Site by Urubamba
At 11:45 am we we already at Llactapata (meaning “elevated city” in Quechua), Huillca Raccay (“sacred ruin/ancient structure” in Quechua). Llactapata as an ancient Inca site is believed to have served as a rest stop and shrine for travelers and pilgrims on their way to Machu Picchu. The site, with its agricultural terraces and well-preserved structures, offers a glimpse into the intricate network of Inca roads and settlements.
Llactapata was discovered and named by Hiram Bingham in 1912, Llactapata was initially thought to be a small Inca complex. However, recent archaeological studies suggest it may have been a more important Inca Sites by Urubamba river, possibly serving as an administrative center or a place of religious significance. It is probable that the site functioned as a significant astronomical observatory for the observation of solstices and equinoxes




Patallacta Inca Site by Urubamba
Llactapata had a good view of Patallacta, another ancient Inca site, which is one of the most important Inca Sites by Urubamba river. It was likely built during the height of the Inca Empire and served as a significant administrative and ceremonial center. The site was also discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1912, alongside Machu Picchu. It was once a bustling town, housing travelers, soldiers, and possibly religious figures. Patallacta’s strategic location offered a commanding view of the surrounding landscape, making it an ideal vantage point for monitoring the area. However, it was intentionally burned by the Inca during their retreat from the Spanish conquistadors in 1536, to prevent the Spanish from discovering Machu Picchu and other important Inca sites. This act of preservation helped to protect these sites from destruction and allowed them to be rediscovered centuries later.




We saw some domestic animals (sheep and donkeys) on our way to lunch campsite.



Hatunchaca lunch stop
At 1:13 pm we’ve reached Hatunchaca (“old town” in Quechua) and our stop place for lunch. After washing up with warm water provided in those green bowls we were heading to our lunch table. I think it was the first and the last photo of food table I have taken as I normally was more hungry to eat when taking photos.


After lunch we could take out our shoes and have a short nap on the grass before heading out.
We were given cooled off boiled water, which was still quite warm to be honest and not ideal for a hot day like this. Also we were instructed to watchout not to drop out camelbag hose on the ground as it will get dirty and a lot of people get diarrhea from that. Unfortunately, rushing to fill up my camelbag I did exactly that, but I did try to wash it off with sterile water from the tank. Well no wonder it can cause diarrhea as there was a lot of hens walking and pooping around…

We were back on the road around 2:45 pm.
Patawasi Archaeological Sanctuary
We just passed by Patawasi Archaeological Sanctuary when going through Wayllabamba (“holly grassland” from Quechua) village and didn’t go inside of it. Wayllabamba is the last community that you will see when going on Inca Trail.
Patawasi served as a crucial resting point for Inca travelers, providing shelter and sustenance. Its strategic location allowed for the control of the Inca Trail and the surrounding region. The site features well-preserved stone structures, including terraces, walls, and a ceremonial platform.
Archaeological studies have revealed that Patawasi was not only a resting place but also a site of spiritual significance. The discovery of various artifacts, including pottery and tools, suggests that it was inhabited by a diverse group of people, including farmers, herders, and religious practitioners.





After that it was mostly up the hill. I was really struggling to breathe, hyperventilating through my mouth and still not getting enough oxygen. I had to do frequent stops to get back my breath and then continue. Sometimes looking back to checko on my friend who was trailing well behind and also to see the view while gasping air. I could see quite a lot of donkeys carrying some goods and slowly (well faster than me to be honest) climbing up the hill.


The path was mainly gravel with sandy clay like path. I wonder how slippery that gets when it rains!



At some point the path got quite lonely and it was slightly getting dark. I still couldn’t see my friend behind me, but I didn’t wait for her as the guide is always trailing behind last person to look after them. At that time I’ve even recorded my summary of the first day.

I could see some unusual vegetation growing on the trees. Tillandsia complanata is a fascinating species of air plant that you can see in the picture below on the tree, belonging to the Bromeliad family. It’s native to various regions in Central and South America, including Bolivia, Peru, Brazil, Colombia, and parts of the Caribbean. Unlike traditional plants, T. complanata doesn’t require soil. It absorbs moisture and nutrients from the air through its leaves. When it blooms, it produces a striking, colorful inflorescence that emerges from the base of the plant.


After crossing the bridge over a spring stream I turned back to capture the stream.

I could see the vegetation getting denser and finally it had some solid ground on the path with some stones.


Ayapata – 1st camping site
At 4:56 pm I arrived to Ayapata, our 1st camping site for the night. The first day of the trail was successfully completed! Yey! All of the tents were readily set up already by our amazing porters. There were also two local women selling beer and other drinks. A bottle of beer was 20 PEN, but I had mostly US dollars in my pocket, so I asked if she would take US dollars and if 5 USD would be enough for that. I’ve got a god deal as exchange rate was 1 USD to 3.7 PEN, so 18.5 PEN instead of 20 PEN. However, the beer wasn’t very cold and also they collected the bottle back once finished, I guess they pay a deposit for it, which they want back.


It was a beautiful light just before the sunset hitting the mountains with a golden light. It didn’t last very long though and soon it got really dark and very cold, so the torches on the head were really useful. We were told after dark everyone could pee just in front of their tent, so that somebody doesn’t fall off somewhere or wander off too far into the bushes. You could hear some animals moving in the bushes after dark.

I’ve put on my fleece and a warm jacked on top, but I was still strongly shivering. Later I understood that it was from the exposure to sun and sudden temperature change. Finally, we heard the call for the happy hour (our tea time) where we were served bread with jam, some popcorn and tea (coca leaves and other tea bags) and discuss our day also the plan for next day. Soon after happy hour the dinner followed. I was starving.
First day was over. Three more to go!