On our 2nd day we were heading to Plitvice Lakes National Park – Croatia’s most famous national park, which is around 150 km southwest from Zagreb.
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Staying at House Tina
We stayed nearby in Rakovica at a place called House Tina. The place was OK with a nice balcony, but quite small for 3 adults. Especially in the bed by the roof slope the feed wouldn’t fit. No glasses in the room as well as no night curtain, so you are bound to wake up at 5 am. Otherwise it was clean and pleasant (not very quiet at night though).
The food was half price in nearby restaurant Plitvički Dvori than in the BBQ they offered at out apartment (House Tina). We would have stayed in, but since they were taking only cash (even though they had card reader in the reception!) we decided to eat out. The grilled squid in the restaurant was only € 13 and in House Tina € 25. The total bill for 3 people was € 57 in this restaurant.
Plitvice Lakes National park
Plitvice Lakes National park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to unique variety of flora and fauna present in the park. It is Croatia’s largest national park, is located in the lower elevations of the Dinarides and consists of 16 lakes that are grouped into two: the upper Lakes and the lower lakes, connected by a series of cascading waterfalls and watercourses. The lake system is the result of millennia of ongoing geological and biochemical processes creating tufa barriers, which interact with living organisms, such as mosses, algae and aquatic bacteria. The park is covered with preserved forests and is home to many noteworthy species, such as Brown Bear, Grey Wolf and Lynx, as well as rare species of flora such as butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris), which is a rare carnivorous plant as well as small bladderwort (Utricularia minor), also rare carnivorous plant which grows in the water.
You can book your tickets for the Plitvice Lakes National park online in their official website. We’ve booked just in the evening and it was € 23.50. Just make sure you select the right entrance, as there are two entrances: number 1 and number 2. In summer the price is almost € 40. Make sure to check the weather beforehand, as it is not very nice when it is raining as the paths can get flooded too. Also, make sure you have sunscreen as it can get pretty sunny. Last, but not the least, decide which path you wish to do as there are different routes of different length. We did Programme C, which was around 8 km. Pity drones were not allowed at the park, so couldn’t take pictures from a flight.
I really would recommend to download the Plitvice Lake app, as the reception in the lakes wasn’t the best from what I remember. It will help you navigate the map of the lakes.
We went not too early – arriving at the entrance at 9:00 am sharp, but since we’ve mixed the numbers of the place where we should start, we’ve entered only at 9:30am. It was a bit busy on the pathways in the park, but not too bad. Also, we’ve entered the park very quickly with no queue at all.
When the Sun came out it became so much prettier and those green colours really visible!
I’ve tried to experiment with a long exposure on my OnePlus 10T and I was pleasantly surprised! My friend’s Samsung Galaxy S23 was not able to do that (it was getting over exposed as it doesn’t adjust aperture automatically).
A Short Rest at Boat Stop Cafe
After some walk we reached first bar/cafe, where we stopped for coffee and beers. The total was only € 15.26. Beer € 3.45 per bottle. After short rest, we started to queue for a boat, which took us almost 40 min waiting in the queue to baord the boat. Funny enough, there was no queue at all when we arrived, but we’ve decided to have some coffee and beer and after that was a massive long queue. We could see the boat moving across the lake with people.
Oh yes, one thing to mention it that it was the only place where they had a toilet in the entire park! Only at the entrances and here! So don’t drink too much or bushes will be your best friend.
Electric Boat to the Other Side of the Lake
The historic electric boats made their grand debut at Lake Kozjak in the exact same year as the park’s iconic panoramic trains, introduced specifically as a sustainable initiative to protect the delicate UNESCO-protected ecosystem. By replacing traditional rowboats and preventing the pollution of fuel-powered engines, these eco-friendly vessels were designed to preserve the fragile, living travertine barriers that give the lakes their world-famous crystal clarity.
Initially, the fleet started small with modest vessels carrying just 25 to 50 passengers at a time, but everything changed in 1978 when a true giant named “Medo” arrived on the waters to carry up to 120 explorers. Currently, an impressive fleet of eight electric boats glides across the water. This collection consists of two nimble craft called Slap and Buk that accommodate 50 passengers each, alongside six grand vessels named Lija, Sedra, Vidra 2, Kozjak, Medo, and Srna, which can transport 100 people apiece. The smaller vessels are perfectly suited for navigating the shorter scenic routes, whereas the larger ones are dedicated to conquering the full length of the magnificent lake. Taking the longer, more immersive cruise across Lake Kozjak treats passengers to a wonderfully peaceful 20-minute journey amidst the stunning scenery.
The electric boat ride across the water was rather quick, but our positions in the middle of the vessel meant that capturing clear photographs was nearly impossible. Because we had not managed to secure seats closer to the open edge, our view was largely obstructed by the shoulders and heads of the other passengers. Furthermore, the speed of the crossing meant that the most beautiful vistas zipped past before a proper camera angle could even be found.
This frustrating seating arrangement happened simply because we ended up being the very last people to board that particular boat. The queue had moved rapidly, and we were ushered into the remaining central spaces just before the ramps were pulled up. Consequently, there was no option to wait patiently for the next boat in order to be the first in line, as the staff kept everyone moving efficiently to prevent delays.
Stepping off the boat onto the opposite shore of the lake instantly felt like entering a completely different world. The gentle hum of the boat engine faded away, and it was replaced by the serene rustle of leaves and the distant, soothing sound of rushing water. Furthermore, the air felt noticeably cooler and more humid on that side of the lake because the dense canopy shielded the forest floor from the direct heat of the sun.
Following the winding wooden path deeper into the woods revealed an incredible explosion of life. Nature seemed to have claimed every single inch of available space, and the sheer density of the greenery was breathtaking. Mosses of the most vibrant emerald shades carpeted the damp ground, while thick ferns uncurled beside the walkways to create a rich, layered tapestry of foliage.
The ancient trees themselves looked like characters out of a fairy tale, since they were entirely draped in climbing ivy and delicate, velvet-like moss. These plants climbed high into the branches to compete for the sunlight filtering through the upper leaves, and this created a stunning vertical garden that extended far above your head. Every trunk and branch was heavily overgrown with wild flora, which beautifully demonstrated the pure, untouched power of the park’s unique ecosystem.
Finishing the trail brought us to the final camp, where my only goal was to find a toilet after holding it in for hours. I had already been forced to use a bush once along the way, so it was a brilliant stroke of luck to find the men’s room locked. Consequently, I simply walked around the back of the building and did my bit to water the local plants instead.
The Panoramic Pltivice Train
Next came the joy of waiting for the famous Plitvice train, which looks more like a connected bus. We stood around patiently for about fifteen minutes or so before we the train arrived and we finally were allowed to climb aboard. You should have seen those people fighting to get inside first so they can get a seat!
The panoramic trains started running in 1977 when the park bought its first two vehicles from a German company called Borco Höhns. These vehicles were a massive novelty back then, so much so that they completely confused the local authorities. For instance, a sceptical train dispatcher in Karlovac insisted that they would never actually drive on the local roads. Similarly, a vehicle inspector was left scratching his head, confessing that he did not even have the right paperwork for such an unusual vehicle. Nevertheless, the trains successfully passed inspection and could finally carry up to 114 passengers using a main towing vehicle and two trailers.
The park expanded its fleet in 1987 by buying three more trains. These newer models combined Slovenian bodywork from a manufacturer named Avtomontaža with German towing engines.
The system changed completely after the year 2000 when the park upgraded to six brand-new units from Borco Höhns. In contrast to the eco-friendly electric boats, these panoramic trains run on low-emission diesel engines rather than electric power to navigate the steep, hilly terrain of the park. Consequently, the original vintage models were retired, leaving these six modern trains to do all the work today. Each current train has enough room for 100 seated passengers and an extra 50 standing travellers. Meanwhile, the entire scenic route gives passengers a lovely 30-minute ride through the beautiful landscape.
Enjoying Beatiful Panoramas of Pltivice Lakes
Arriving at the final stop did not mean we were finished, as we still had to hike a bit further up to reach the actual exit. However, the incredible views of the waterfalls from high up on the cliffs actually made the extra effort worthwhile. These panoramas were really ejoyable, also the sun was out and the colours were so much more beautiful!
If you look closer, you will see how much busier it got in the afternoon! As the passage is completely covered with people!
In total we’ve spent almost 5 hours in the park: walking around, then taking the boat and a train back and it was just the right amount of time to see most of it. At the exit, I’ve decided to buy some memento, maybe a magnets as souvenir to remember this place, but they were quite overpriced in those shops (nearly € 5 for the nicer magnets). However, I found out later that elsewhere they were cheaper, but these ones had much more detail and looked much better quality than the cheaper ones! So I would advice, to buy them the magnets or souvenirs you want in the national park gift shops.
Tips for The Plitvice Lakes National Park
What to Plan Ahead
💎 Booking tickets in advance: Entry tickets should be purchased online at least a few days before your visit because daily numbers are strictly limited. Therefore, turning up without a reservation might mean missing out entirely.
💎 Arriving early in the morning: Entering the park right when it opens at 7:00 AM or 8:00 AM allows you to enjoy the trails before the tour buses arrive. Consequently, you will get much better photos without hundreds of people on the narrow boardwalks.
💎 Choosing your route: There are several pre-marked walking programmes ranging from two hours to eight hours. For instance, Programme H is highly popular because it includes a scenic train ride and a boat crossing while showing you both the upper and lower lakes.
💎 Checking the entry gate: The park has two main entrances located a few kilometres apart. In other words, you need to start at the specific gate listed on your pre-booked ticket to be allowed inside.
What to Pack and Bring
💎 Sturdy walking shoes: Trainers or hiking boots with good grip are essential for the damp, uneven wooden paths. On the other hand, flip-flops or smooth-soled shoes can easily lead to slips. It is very slippery when raining!
💎 Insulated water bottles: Staying hydrated is vital during the long walks and you will thank me having that cold water in your thermos bottle! However, water refill stations are mostly found only near the main entrance hubs and boat stops. There is one place where you can buy, but it won’t be cheap. But be warned there are very limited number of toilets in the park (and some of them out of order!), so do pace yourself as otherwise you will be watering the plants! Toilets at the entrance, next to the boat stop (the cafe) and one at the train pickup (though it was out of order).
💎 Snacks and packed lunch: Food options inside the park are limited to a few busy cafes at the main transit points. Thus, bringing your own sandwiches and snacks saves time and some money
💎 Sun protection and waterproofs: A hat, sunglasses, and sun cream protect you from the intense midday sun. Meanwhile, a lightweight waterproof rain jacket (the plastic ones are perfect) is smart to pack since the weather in the forested canyon can change rapidly.
💎 A camera or fully charged phone: The turquoise water and cascading waterfalls are incredibly photogenic. Furthermore, carrying a portable power bank ensures your battery lasts the entire day. There will be no place to recharge them!