We arrived quite late in the evening to Croatia’s capital – Zagreb. The plane landed in Franjo Tuđman Airport Zagreb, which is quite modern airpot I must say. We’ve picked up our rental car, which costs us only € 102 for 9 days with unlimited mileage and we’ve got pretty new Open Mokka, with only 19,000 km!
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We’ve stayed in Hotel Residence Zagreb. Given we’ve paid for Deluxe room it was more like economy not deluxe. Also on Expedia it said 4 star hotel. I would give 2 the most. The air conditioner was not working and in the room it was 24°C, so possible to sleep, but not very pleasant. No hair conditioner, no lotion just a big bottle of Gel & Shampoo in one. Also not much of the view from the window and that ugly wall gets lit up at night haha. I really don’t recommend this hotel. Maybe you can find something close to the centre and with better service as this one is 30min away by tram.
Anyway, we were headed downtown by car. Parking in the centre of Zagreb was €15 for a day, which was kind of a rip off, but I guess that is a standard rate for parking in terms of parking in Zagreb.
Zagreb is most famous for its vibrant café culture, with many outdoor cafes spilling out onto the streets in the summer months. It is also known for its many museums, galleries and theaters.
The Cathedral of Zagreb
The Cathedral of Zagreb stands as the most prominent architectural landmark in the city, its soaring neo-Gothic twin spires visible from almost every corner of the capital. Originally constructed in the medieval period on the hill of Kaptol, the monumental Roman Catholic edifice has undergone numerous reconstructions over the centuries, most notably a comprehensive restoration led by architect Hermann Bollé following a devastating earthquake in 1880. The interior serves as a repository of immense cultural wealth, housing the treasury, intricate altars, and the marble tomb of Blessed Aloysius Stepinac. Furthermore, the cathedral grounds are surrounded by exceptionally well-preserved Renaissance defensive walls and towers, which were built to withstand Ottoman raids and now form an evocative historical backdrop for visitors exploring the historic upper town.
Dolac Market
Dolac Market is the historic heart of Zagreb’s daily life, operating as the city’s main open-air trading hub since 1930. Located just steps above the central Ban Jelačić Square, this vibrant marketplace is instantly recognisable by its iconic sea of bright red Šestine umbrellas sheltering rows of wooden stalls. Local farmers and vendors gather here every morning to sell an array of fresh seasonal fruits, vegetables, and homemade cheeses. Moreover, the bustling upper square transitions seamlessly into a covered lower level dedicated to butchers, fishmongers, and traditional bakeries, offering visitors a sensory glimpse into authentic Croatian culinary culture.
The bronze statue of St. George and the Dragon, created by sculptors Andreas Kompatscher (Italian) and Arthur Winder (Austrian) created in 1906. It is located near the Stone Gate.
This depiction of Saint George is distinct from the usual one, which usually portrays him in the act of slaying the dragon. Instead, this painting shows George after his battle with the dragon, with the animal lying dead at his horse’s feet. He is presented in the same way as a hunter would give respect to a defeated animal, as if he is thanking God for his victory. George has taken off his helmet and his hands are crossed. Both he and his horse are looking downwards, and the horse has long hair on its legs and a knot in its tail, appearing as a typical medieval working horse.
The Stone Gate of Zagreb
The Stone Gate is located on the east side of the city, at the end of the main street, Strossmayerovo šetalište. It was built during the 13th century and is the only remaining gate of the original city walls. The gate consists of two towers, one on each side, connected by a stone arch. The gate is decorated with stone reliefs depicting the Virgin Mary, St. Mark and St. John the Baptist.
The gate was originally part of the city’s fortifications and was used to regulate the entrance of people and goods into the city. It was damaged in the Great Fire of 1731, but was later restored in 1760.
The painting of the Virgin Mary in Zagreb dates back to the first half of the 17th century. It is in the Stone Gate. The painting was commissioned by the Governor of Zagreb, Ivan Lenković, and was painted by an anonymous artist. It is believed to have been painted between 1650 and 1670. The painting depicts the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus in a tender embrace. In the 17th century, the painting was said to be miraculous and was believed to have saved the city from a great fire in 1731 and it survived the fire which destroyed Stone Gate.
Zagreb’s Famous St. Mark’s Church
St. Mark’s Church stands as one of the oldest and most evocative architectural monuments in Zagreb, anchoring the political heart of the Upper Town on St. Mark’s Square. Originally constructed in the thirteenth century as a Romanesque parish church, the building was later transformed with dramatic Gothic elements, including a striking southern portal adorned with intricate medieval stone sculptures. The sanctuary is most famous globally for its extraordinarily vibrant tiled roof, constructed in 1880 to display the coat of arms of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia alongside the emblem of the city of Zagreb. Furthermore, the interior houses magnificent religious artworks, featuring sculptures by Ivan Meštrović and frescos painted by Jozo Kljaković, which provide visitors with an exceptional glimpse into early twentieth-century Croatian artistic heritage.
We were quite unlucky as the St. Mark’s Church was close for renovation as well as the Catherdal.
Museum of Broke Relationships
he Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb is a uniquely poignant and globally crowdsourced concept space dedicated to the tangible remnants of failed love and familial estrangement. Founded in 2010 by a former couple, the museum displays seemingly mundane personal belongings donated from all over the world, each paired with an anonymous, heartfelt narrative that details the relationship’s demise. Among the most intriguing things on display is a physical axe, which a heartbroken donor used to systematically chop up her unfaithful partner’s furniture during a therapeutic period of grief. Visitors can likewise find a quirky garden dwarf that was furiously hurled at an ex-husband’s new car windshield on the day of their divorce. Similarly, a touching collection of airline air-sickness bags highlights the intense emotional exhaustion of a long-distance relationship. Additionally, the exhibition features a box of unopened candy underwear, a prosthetic leg, and even a printout of an Orion constellation star spectrum gifted between two astronomers whose love faded. Therefore, the museum transforms ordinary objects into fascinating, bittersweet monuments of human connection, providing an intimate, cathartic experience that resonates deeply with anyone who has ever experienced a broken heart.
The museum’s collection features several other deeply symbolic and bittersweet tokens of expired love, including a copy of Paul McKenna’s weight-loss book, I Can Make You Thin. This item was donated by an individual whose fiancé had gifted it to her as a subtle, hurtful hint about her appearance, which subsequently led to the permanent cancellation of their wedding plans. What would you do if you’ve got a book like that from your loved one?
Another interesting one item was a basic mobile phone that was deliberately given away to a former partner. The donor specifically presented the device to her ex-lover with a pre-paid SIM card loaded with a limited amount of credit, explicitly intending it to serve as a final farewell gift so that he could never call her again once the minutes expired. I must say that was very unconventional way to disapear from someone’s life, but nowadays you would also need to block them in the abudance of social media, emails and etc if you wish to disapear and goodluck making your friends and family blocking your ex
We arrived to museum around 11:00 am and there were only few people inside, but just before 12:00pm it was very crowded. Probably due to fact that people flock to nearby Lotrščak Tower just before 12:00pm to see the canon. The entrance is € 7 for an adult. It is not very big (~5 small rooms), but takes time to read the articles.
Lotrščak Tower canon
Perched high above the Upper Town, the Lotrščak Tower stands as a rugged thirteenth-century sentinel steeped in centuries of urban warfare, local folklore, and peculiar traditions. Contrary to popular belief, historical records indicate that the fortification was actually commissioned by the citizens of Gradec following a golden bull decree by King Béla IV of Hungary—rather than King Ladislaus—who demanded the town construct defensive walls to protect against devastating Tatar invasions. The tower takes its peculiar name from the Campana Latrunculorum, or the “thieves’ bell,” which rang out every evening at sunset to signal the closing of the town gates, warning anyone outside the medieval walls that they would be locked out for the night at their own peril. Furthermore, local legend whispers that during an Ottoman siege, a cannonball fired directly from the tower flew across the Sava River and landed precisely on a platter of chicken being served to a Turkish pasha, terrifying the army so thoroughly that they abandoned their assault on Zagreb altogether.
Perched high above the Upper Town, the Lotrščak Tower stands as a rugged thirteenth-century sentinel steeped in centuries of urban warfare, local folklore, and startling traditions. Contrary to popular belief, historical records indicate that the fortification was actually commissioned by the citizens of Gradec following a golden bull decree by King Béla IV of Hungary—rather than King Ladislaus—who demanded the town construct defensive walls to protect against devastating Tatar invasions. The tower takes its peculiar name from the Campana Latrunculorum, or the “thieves’ bell,” which rang out every evening at sunset to signal the closing of the town gates, warning anyone outside the medieval walls that they would be locked out for the night at their own peril. Furthermore, this defensive stronghold is famous for a sixteenth-century wartime legend regarding its powerful artillery. It is said that while the city was under siege by the Ottoman Empire, a single cannonball was fired from the tower, flew clean across the Sava River, and struck a rooster just as it was being served for the Ottoman pasha’s dinner. The superstitious leader viewed the explosion of his feast as an omen of terrible luck and promptly called off the entire invasion, thereby saving Zagreb from destruction.
This dramatic folklore directly inspired the tower’s most famous modern spectacle: the daily firing of the Grič Cannon, a booming tradition that has shattered the noon silence every single day since 1 January 1877 to synchronize the city’s church clocks. Visitors exploring the base should definitely brace themselves at midday, as the blast is loud enough to make even the most seasoned travellers jump right out of their shoes. Over its long lifespan, the stone structure has proved remarkably resilient, surviving the catastrophic Zagreb earthquake of 1880 and the turbulence of subsequent conflicts, including the bombings of the Second World War. The tower’s function has morphed dramatically through the eras, transitioning from a medieval watchtower to a nineteenth-century prison, and later a local shooting range. Consequently, the site evolved into an early twentieth-century cultural hub, housing everything from a clock museum to an eccentric collection of small animals. Today, the lovingly restored monument invites brave visitors to climb its steep wooden staircases to the open-air dome, offering an unmatched, panoramic view over the red-tiled roofs of the capital.
The sound was really loud when the canon shot, so do be prepared of it as I literally jumped abd nade a very funny sound too!.
Exploring Streets of Zagreb
Later on we took stairs down instead of Funicular, just to wonder to the local street art – graffiti, which was everywhere on the rubbish bins. and walls. The only place they haven’t reached (at least not yet) is the ceiling!
The elegant public clock standing at the edge of Ban Jelačić Square serves as the ultimate temporal heart of Zagreb, regulating the rhythm of the bustling capital for generations. Positioned precisely where the historic Upper Town meets the energetic Lower Town, this time-tested landmark has quietly witnessed decades of changing architectural landscapes. Apparently, before the mobile phone era, this clock was the most popular and undisputed meeting spot in the entire city, serving as the default location for friends, nervous first dates, and families to gather. Locals simply had to say “let’s meet under the clock at 6pm,” and everyone knew exactly where to go and what time (and the clock is still working) without any further coordination required.
A few steps away from the clock stands the majestic Ban Josip Jelačić Statue, a bronze man on the horse monument that remains one of the most famous and recognisable landmarks of the city. Commissioned by the Croatian Parliament and created by the renowned Austrian sculptor Anton Dominik Fernkorn, the statue depicts the national hero on his horse, Emir, with an unsheathed sabre raised in his right hand. A historical review reveals that the monument was officially unveiled in the central square on 19 October 1866—rather than 10 October—to honour the memory and extensive military achievements of the late count, who had governed as the Ban of Croatia from 1848 until his death in 1859. While local accounts frequently associate his legacy with campaigns throughout the tumultuous Revolutions of 1848 against the Hungarian independence movement, the monument itself stands as a powerful tribute to his overall preservation of Croatian autonomy and his historic abolition of serfdom. Consequently, the towering statue and the nearby meeting clock function together as the twin anchors of the city, infusing the vibrant pedestrian plaza with a deep sense of national identity.
Central plaza has a big intersection of tram routes, so you will see quite a lot of trams here.
We continued walking through three beautiful parks: Park Zrinjevac, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera and Ledeni Park until the Central Train Station (Glavni kolodvor).
The King Tomislav Statue is a bronze equestrian statue was erected in 1947 to commemorate King Tomislav, the first ruler of Croatia and the founder of the Croatian state. It was designed by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović and stands 28 meters high, making it the tallest equestrian statue in the world. In addition to its size, the statue is also noteworthy for its intricate details, including the finely detailed costume and individual hair strands of the king’s horse. We’ve noticed a lot of people where just sitting next to it and enjoying the Sun.
After a walk through that long green park we took a tram back to see the famous tunnel. Tram costs us only € 0.53. The only problem was marking the ticket. It seems you can mark it only in the front of the tram (at least in the old one we’ve took), but the machine was working quite intermittently, so we managed to mark only 1 of 3 tickets. Luckily we haven’t been caught.
The cars and motorbikes cannot overtake Trams without risking going into another tram coming from front.
There was a street fair with a lot of people, but we were famished, so we wanted to see the famous tunnel and head to the restaurant.
Zagreb’s Grič Tunel
Grič Tunel (also called Gradec or Gornji Grad) was built during World War II as a bomb shelter and transport link through the hill of Gornji Grad. It measures 350 meters long and up to 5.5 meters wide, connecting Mesnička and Stjepan Radić Streets. Despite criticism of its expense, construction went ahead, though changes were made to the original plan. After the war, the tunnel was used as a warehouse and was largely abandoned, becoming a home for the unhoused and others seeking temporary shelter. In the 1990s, the tunnel was revived with rave parties and proposals for a “museum of senses”. Finally, in 2016, it reopened as a cultural center, with displays of Croatian culture, everyday life and science. Visitors can take a walk through the history of Croatia and Zagreb, and explore interactive exhibits such as a Rain Room and a Tesla machine.
Lunch at Capuciner Restaurant
Later on we headed to the restaurant. First we wanted to try La Štruk, which had a good rating (4.6 stars) and it was serving Croatian specialties. After queueing in a corridor for awhile in front of a very bad smell toilet (smelled like a sewage!) we’ve got the table, but just to find out that no one will bother to come and take our oder. We’ve waited like 10-15min and left. Also quite limited food options.
So next stop was Capuciner restaurant with 4.4 rating. I’ve ordered some pork skewers and rib-eye steak. All was very delicious.
After the meal we’ve got Chocolate souffle with an ice cream. I think it was one of the best desserts I’ve had in my life!
The total for 3 people came as € 72.33 and we were happy they were accepting credit cards!
Quiet good place for a meal.
Would you recommend visiting Zagreb?
Yes if you are planning to go out clubbing. Otherwise no.
Very good outlook, insightful as always. I must say I dont feel like visiting it given your account so I might just give it a day and then move on 😀
Just choose a nicer hotel for sure 😉