Next on our agenda was Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi). Once we dropped our luggages and took quick shower in B&B Villa Seta (really nice establishment and they grow their own herbs and fruits!) we went to Valley of Temples just a bit before sunset. That way we could see everything in daylight and as well at night and it looks quite different as you will see from the photos.
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Agrigento – Valley of Temples
As we drove along the nearby road, I caught a magnificent view of the Temple of Hera Lacinia, also known as the Temple of Juno, perched high on the hill. Furthermore, this impressive structure is part of Agrigento’s famous Valley of the Temples, an extraordinary archaeological site that contains some of the most remarkable ancient Greek ruins in the world. Located along a dramatic ridge overlooking the modern town, the area features the remains of seven magnificent temples dating back to the 5th century BC, with the Temple of Concordia standing as another standout highlight. Moreover, this UNESCO World Heritage Site remains one of the most celebrated attractions in all of Sicily, drawing visitors from across the globe.
Initially founded by Greek colonists in the 6th century BC, the ancient city saw its first sacred temple constructed around 510 BC to honour the gods of the Greek pantheon. However, the site suffered immense destruction by the Carthaginians in 406 BC before being rebuilt under Roman rule. Subsequently, the entire complex was abandoned in the 5th century AD after being sacked by the Vandals, remaining largely forgotten until Italian archaeologists rediscovered and excavated the ruins in the 19th century. Driving past these ancient monuments today offers a breathtaking glimpse into one of the most historically significant sites in the entire Mediterranean region.
Temple of Dioscuri
Among the ancient ruins of the area stands the historic Temple of Castor and Pollux, also known as the Temple of the Dioscuri, which was constructed in the 5th century BC during the rule of the Greek tyrant Theron. Furthermore, this sacred monument was dedicated to the twin sons of Zeus and Leda, Castor and Pollux, making it one of the most significant places of worship in the ancient city. Situated on the highest elevation of the Acropolis, the structure was notably the first of the five major temples built in Agrigento. In addition, the design featured traditional Doric architecture, consisting of six grand columns along the shorter sides and thirteen along the length. However, Carthaginian forces destroyed the original building during the siege of 406 BC, though it was subsequently rebuilt in the 4th century BC.
Following the eventual collapse of the Roman Empire, the ancient shrine was completely abandoned to the elements. Moreover, powerful earthquakes in the 8th century ultimately reduced the magnificent structure to rubble over time. Nevertheless, interest in the forgotten monument was renewed when the ruins were rediscovered in the 19th century. Extensive archaeological excavations began in the early 20th century, bringing its surviving columns back to light. Consequently, the distinctive four-column ruin has become an iconic symbol of Sicily’s rich classical heritage. I always wondered, why is it always 3-4 columns left of a temple and often the corner ones?
The Sanctuary of the Chthonic Deities, located at Porta V, is a series of adjacent places of worship devoted to subterranean gods Demeter and Persephone. At the northernmost part of the sanctuary, a small temple with three rooms, a room with a square altar, and a room with a circular altar can be seen. Additionally, two small temples featuring an atrium, a naos, and a rear chamber for religious officiants are present. Between these two temples is a large circular altar with an internal recess, and a square altar. The most characteristic ruin of the Valley of the Temples is the Temple of Castor and Pollux, a Doric temple dating back to the second half of the fifth century BC, with six columns on the short sides and thirteen on the long sides and interior divided into an atrium, a naos, and a rear chamber. Although it is often referred to as the Temple of Castor and Pollux, it is likely the temple was dedicated to Demeter and Persephone, the gods to which the entire area is devoted.
Temple of Heracles
The ancient Temple of Heracles in Agrigento stands out as the oldest surviving structure within the complex, having been built in the late sixth century BC. Furthermore, scholars believe the sanctuary was dedicated to the legendary Greek hero because of a famous passage by Cicero, which mentions a temple devoted to Heracles near the ancient Agorà just north of the city. Architectural enthusiasts will note that it was constructed in the classic Doric order, featuring a three-step base that once supported six columns along the shorter ends and fifteen along the length. In addition, the interior was divided into a traditional portico, a central naos, and an opisthodomos, each framed by a pair of columns. Interestingly, the main entrance to the naos was flanked by two pillars that contained a service ladder leading up to the roof, marking the earliest known example of this feature in Akragantine architecture.
The roof itself featured two distinct types of rainwater gutters crafted into the shapes of lions’ heads, originating from both the late sixth century and the early fifth century BC. Moreover, just to the east of the primary structure lie the remains of a monumental altar alongside the terracotta ruins of an even earlier archaic temple. During the Roman era, workers divided the central naos into three separate chambers to form a smaller religious space, which was likely linked to the local transfer of the Cult of Asclepius. Subsequently, various restoration efforts have taken place on and off since the 1920s, with the most recent preservation work being carried out by the Archaeological Park of the Valley of the Temples. The surviving line of upright columns remains one of the most remarkable sight-lines across the entire historic ridge today.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
The ruins of the Temple of Olympian Zeus bear witness to what was once one of the largest Doric temples of classical antiquity. Furthermore, according to the ancient historian Diodorus Siculus, construction of this colossal shrine began immediately after the major victory of the Sicilian Greek cities over the Carthaginians at the Battle of Himera in 480 BC. However, the building was never fully completed because the city of Akragas fell to Carthaginian forces in 406 BC, leaving the monumental structure completely without a roof. In addition, the temple featured a truly original design, sitting atop a massive rectangular platform with a five-step base where the final step was twice as high as the rest, elevating the entire complex far above its surroundings. The perimeter was enclosed by an outer wall flanked by seven grand Doric half-columns on the shorter ends and fourteen along the length, matching an equal number of rectangular half-pillars on the interior, with the outer columns estimated to have reached over eighteen metres in height.
Positioned in the spaces between these outer half-columns on elevated platforms, huge statues of Giants known as Atlases stood nearly eight metres tall, appearing to support the massive weight of the upper entablature with their bare hands. Moreover, the open-air interior formed a extraordinarily tall enclosure with a roofless central naos, which Diodorus Siculus interpreted as a clear sign of the building’s unfinished nature. The eastern facade was dramatically decorated with sculpted reliefs portraying the legendary battle between the gods and the giants, while the western side displayed the tragic sacking of Troy. Furthermore, just a short distance from the eastern side, the remains of a monumental rectangular altar can still be observed by visitors today.
Unfortunately, ancient earthquakes likely inflicted severe damage on the structure over time, and local builders used the site as a convenient stone quarry during the Middle Ages, referring to it as the cava gigantum in historic archives. On the other hand, during the 1700s, much of the remaining masonry was dismantled to construct the nearby harbour walls at Porto Empedocle. While only fragments and a fallen Atlas replica remain scattered across the ground, the sheer scale of the site continues to convey the immense architectural ambition of the ancient Greek world.
Temple of Hera Lacinia (Juno)
The ancient Temple of Hera Lacinia, often referred to as the Temple of Juno, occupies a magnificent position on the highest crag in the easternmost part of the Valley of the Temples. Furthermore, while the exact deity worshipped here remains somewhat uncertain, historians historically attributed the shrine to Hera Lacinia because of a famous misinterpretation of a passage by the Roman author Pliny the Elder, whose writings actually referred to a different sanctuary near Crotone. Constructed around the mid-fifth century BC, this grand Doric order building features a sturdy four-step base supporting six columns along its short sides and thirteen along its length. In addition, the interior layout follows a traditional layout divided into an entrance portico, a central naos, and a rear opisthodomos, with the outer spaces bracketed by a pair of columns. Interestingly, an internal staircase flanked by two pillars stands between the portico and the naos, which originally allowed access to the roof for routine repairs.
Positioned roughly fifteen metres from the eastern entrance, a large sacrificial altar can still be seen, accessible by a flight of ten stone steps. Moreover, historical evidence suggests that the temple suffered severe fire damage during the dramatic Carthaginian siege of 406 BC, though builders likely restored the complex during the Roman period. Subsequently, conservation efforts began in earnest during the late eighteenth century when workers carefully re-erected the fallen columns along the northern flank. On the other hand, modern preservation projects led by the Archaeological Park of the Valley of the Temples focus on protecting the delicate, weathered stonework from environmental decay. Today, standing beside this elevated monument offers both a captivating historical narrative and an unmatched view across the Sicilian landscape.
The Paleo-Christian Necropolis
The Paleo-Christian Necropolis of Agrigento extends dramatically across the Collina dei Templi between the Temple of Hera Lacinia and the Temple of Heracles, with its history dating from the third to sixth century AD. Furthermore, embedded within the ancient defensive wall that once protected this ridge, numerous striking arched tombs known as arcosolia can still be observed carved directly into the stone. In addition, the open-air section of the cemetery, known as the sub divo necropolis, features approximately 130 chest-like graves carved into the bedrock surrounding the nearby Temple of Concordia. Deep beneath the surface lies the Grotta Fragapane, which forms the largest catacomb network in the entire complex, complete with long underground corridors, intimate burial chambers, and grand circular halls.
Along the historic Via dei Sepolcri, which cuts through the burial grounds from east to west, several smaller underground chambers lie hollowed out inside a former ancient Greek water conduit. Moreover, local authorities have thoughtfully transformed this ancient funerary road into an accessible open-air museum over the years. On the other hand, the preserved tombs offer a fascinating contrast to the classic pagan temples that dominate the surrounding skyline. Consequently, walking along this ancient path now provides visitors with one of the most remarkable educational journeys anywhere within the Valley of the Temples.
Upon conducting further research whilst writing this article, I discovered that the necropolis contains an extraordinary wealth of hidden subterranean chambers and historical features, meaning our own brief visit barely scratched the surface. Furthermore, the sheer scale of the Grotta Fragapane catacombs and the ancient rock-cut tombs along the Via dei Sepolcri warrants far more time than standard sightseeing typically allows. Moreover, exploring these ancient burial sites with a knowledgeable guide offers a deeply rewarding perspective on Sicily’s early Christian history. Consequently, if you ever plan a trip to the Valley of the Temples, allocating extra time to book and take the complete guided tour of the necropolis is highly recommended.
During excavations in 2005, two marble statues depicting Roman figures wearing togas—known as the Togati statues—were unearthed in the Valley of the Temples. Furthermore, although the missing heads prevent definitive identification of the individuals, the sculptures themselves remain in remarkably good condition. In addition, from the intricate draping of the garments and their prominent placement along the Via Sacra near the Temple of Concordia, historians deduce that they likely represented influential local figures, such as magistrates or civic leaders. These remarkable artifacts now offer visitors an exceptional glimpse into the Roman period of Agrigento’s rich history.
Temple of Concordia
The Temple of Concordia stands as one of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples in existence today. Furthermore, its traditional title stems from a Latin inscription referencing the harmony of the Agrigentini people, which historian Tommaso Fazello mistakenly linked to this specific shrine in the mid-1500s. In addition, the Doric structure features a four-step base that supports six columns along its short sides and thirteen along its length, with its entablature and pediment capitals remaining remarkably intact. Specifically, the internal layout includes an entrance portico, a central naos, and a rear opisthodomos, alongside a carved service staircase designed for roof access. The entrance to the interior was closed during our visit, so exploring the inner chamber from within was not possible.
The extraordinary survival of the building is largely due to its transformation into a Christian church during the late 6th century AD. Moreover, local legend holds that Bishop Gregory of Agrigento exorcised the pagan demons Eber and Raps from the site before dedicating the sanctuary to Saints Peter and Paul. For instance, twelve distinct arches carved into the walls of the inner naos clearly display evidence of this Christian conversion. However, while some historians suggest the temple was originally dedicated to twin Greek deities like Castor and Pollux, concrete archaeological proof remains elusive. Standing beside its ancient columns still provides an incredible connection to Sicily’s rich past.
In front of the magnificent Temple of Concordia lies an impressive bronze sculpture of Fallen Icarus, a contemporary work by the Polish artist Igor Mitoraj. Furthermore, this poignant statue depicts the mythological figure on the earth, its large, fractured wings suggesting a spectacular fall from the sky. However, I completely missed this striking landmark during our initial exploration! In my defence, we were utterly exhausted after a full day of navigating the extensive archaeological park. Moreover, the intense Sicilian heat was relentless, making every step in the open terrain an exhausting challenge by that point. Consequently, I only realised its existence upon reviewing footage I had taken on my phone—the shuttle bus we were on chanced to pass right by the Fallen Icarus, and I was fortunately able to extract a clear screenshot from the video. While the heat and fatigue almost obscured this powerful piece of art from my trip memories, I’m glad my accidental recording captured the unique juxtaposition (the act of placing two or more things, ideas, or characters side by side to compare them, contrast them, or show a new meaning) of modern and ancient sculpture.
Visitors can take the handy Sacred Street Shuttle to travel comfortably from one end of the archaeological park to the other. Furthermore, while the service requires a modest fee of approximately 3 euros, every single penny spent proves entirely worthwhile after several hours of walking in the heat. Moreover, the open shuttle provides a refreshing breeze alongside a welcomed rest for tired legs, allowing one to comfortably enjoy the final views of the monuments. Using this transport option makes for a far more relaxed finale to a busy day of sightseeing.
Villa Aurea
Sir Alexander Hardcastle, a British army captain, made his home at Villa Aurea between 1921 and 1932. Furthermore, he purchased the estate near the ancient defensive walls of Akragas toward the end of the nineteenth century, naming the property after the nearby golden gateway of the classical fortification. Over a twelve-year period, Hardcastle generously financed extensive archaeological excavations with his personal fortune, working alongside the renowned archaeologist Pirro Marconi. However, the tragic Wall Street Crash of 1929 left the captain completely destitute, forcing him to sell Villa Aurea to the Italian state. Subsequently, suffering from severe depression, he was committed to the local asylum in Agrigento where he sadly passed away in 1933.
The beautiful garden surrounding Villa Aurea stands directly upon the remains of an ancient Paleo-Christian necropolis, seamlessly blending history with botany. In addition, the grounds showcase a vibrant mix of native Mediterranean maquis, exotic plants, and rare flora, including the only known specimen of Eucalyptus erythrocorys within Sicily’s historic gardens. Moreover, visitors wandering along the shaded pathways can appreciate fascinating archaeological finds while taking in stunning views of the surrounding countryside, almond groves, and distant sea. The estate remains a touching tribute to a passion for history that transformed the preservation of Agrigento forever.
Allocating a full, uninterrupted day is truly the best way to do complete justice to the extraordinary Valley of the Temples. Furthermore, the sheer vastness of the ridge, combined with the heat, means that attempting to rush through the monuments often leads to missing out on incredible details. In addition, booking specialiSed guided tours in advance is an essential step if you wish to access the restricted subterranean areas of the necropolis, such as the impressive Grotta Fragapane catacombs. Moreover, expert guides provide fascinating insights into the ancient Greek and early Christian history that you simply cannot discover from reading standard information boards alone. Careful planning and reserving guided access ahead of time will ensure a far more comprehensive and memorable Sicilian adventure.
So we had a very productive day today seeing Villa Romana del Casale museum, visiting Castello Chiarmontano and nearby abandoned Customs House (ex Caserma della Guardia di Finanza) as well as Valley of Temples!