After exploring Palermo, this morning we checked out and left to Cappuccini Catacombs in Palermo on our way to Cefalu. We parked just in front of it. Some drunk Italian was telling us to pay 2€ for parking. I told him “libero!” couple times as he kept insisting and then he finally backed off. Entrance to Cappuccini Catacombs was 3€ per person. Taking pictures or videos were not allowed inside.
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Cappuccini Catacombs in Palermo
Visiting the Catacombs of Palermo in Sicily presents a truly fascinating experience, as the site was originally established in the 16th century as a private burial place for the Cappuccini friars before expanding to house wealthy local families. Furthermore, the subterranean site consists of an extensive network of stone galleries and vaulted chambers containing the mummified remains of more than 8,000 individuals, making it one of the largest and best-preserved historical collections of its kind anywhere in Italy. In addition to that, wandering down the dimly lit corridors feels distinctly uncanny, as rows of exposed skulls and preserved faces appear frozen in time as though gasping their final breath.
Separated meticulously into distinct sections dedicated to men, women, and young children, the sheer level of preservation across the mummies creates an intense, almost surreal atmosphere. Also, certain mummies still feature intact facial hair, moustaches, and elaborate period clothing, while the preserved bishops and priests lining the walls look straight out of a classic horror movie scene. Likewise, seeing the remarkably intact body of a young baby who looks merely asleep rather than deceased leaves a profound somewhat creepy impression.
While exploring the catacombs provides a captivating historical journey, taking sensitive visitors, anyone with weak nerves or PTSD into the galleries might not be the best idea. In addition, picking up the official illustrated catalogue at the ticket office for €4 offers a fantastic souvenir, especially since photographs on paper simply cannot replicate the visceral impact of seeing the mummies in person. Finally, checking the site’s operating hours ahead of time remains essential, as the doors typically close for an extended lunch break around midday or operate on reduced schedules on specific days. No photos or videos allowed inside and that rule is enforced by monitoring with multiple cameras inside. I guess, one it is for respect to the dead and also making sure people come to visit and admire as opposed to do disturbing instagram sessions.
Cattedrale di Monreale
Straight after catacombs, we headed directly to Monreale to visit the remarkable Cattedrale di Monreale. Furthermore, our host had warned us that finding a space on the streets would be difficult, advising us to head straight for a secure paid underground car park, which proved to be a sound piece of advice. This magnificent Roman Catholic cathedral was built between 1174 and 1184 under the orders of King William II of Sicily, representing one of the finest surviving examples of Norman architecture anywhere in the world. Once you step inside and the grand white marble walls give way to vast, breathtaking gold mosaics depicting vivid stories from both the Old and New Testaments. Likewise, paying €10 for the combined ticket gave us complete access to the cathedral interior, the cloister gardens, and the elevated rooftop walk, making the small entry fee utterly worthwhile. Exploring this glorious UNESCO World Heritage site turned out to be one of the highlights of our Sicilian road trip.
Dominating the central apse of Monreale Cathedral, this colossal 12th-century Byzantine masterpiece represents one of the supreme achievements of medieval sacred art. The magnificent half-dome features the towering figure of Christ Pantocrator, translating from Greek as “Ruler of All,” set against a radiant background of shimmering gold glass tesserae. Furthermore, Christ raises his right hand in a gesture of divine blessing while his left hand firmly holds the open Gospel, written in both Greek and Latin. Below his vast, sweeping embrace, tiered rows of delicate mosaics depict the Virgin Mary enthroned alongside archangels, apostles, and saints in descending spiritual order. Consequently, stepping into the sanctuary and gazing up at the majestic vault creates an overwhelming sense of awe, perfectly uniting Byzantine artistic brilliance with Norman architectural grandeur.
Adjoining Monreale Cathedral, this tranquil quadrangle garden space is known as the Benedictine Cloister (Chiostro dei Benedettini or Chiostro di Santa Maria Nuova). Furthermore, taking the climb to the very top of the cathedral complex offers a spectacular elevated viewpoint, where visitors can look directly down upon the entire courtyard’s neat, geometric layout. In This magnificent 12th-century courtyard represents one of the finest surviving examples of Romanesque architecture in the Mediterranean region. On the other hand, the lush interior space is enclosed by pointed arcade walkways supported by 228 double marble columns, each crowned with intricately carved capitals depicting detailed scenes from the Bible. Gazing out over the tranquil, symmetrical green quadrants from high above provides a captivating highlight when exploring the landmark.
Nestled in the southwest corner of Monreale Cloister, this exquisite Moorish-style structure is known as the King’s Fountain (Fontana del Re). The tranquil design features a circular marble basin dominated by a central chevron-patterned column sculpted to resemble the trunk of a stylized palm tree. In addition to that, the capital at the top is intricately carved with delicate relief figures of musicians, dancers, and lion heads from which water gently trickles into the basin below. Local lore suggests that King William II of Sicily used to refresh himself at this very spot every morning. Pausing to admire this finely crafted fountain offers one of the absolute highlights of exploring the monastery courtyard.
Lunch at Trattoria Pizzeria Monreale
While parking the car led to a rather intriguing offer when the attendant informed us that dining at Trattoria Pizzeria Monreale would completely waive the parking fee, which otherwise would have cost roughly €4. Encountering such an arrangement naturally raised a few curious questions about local dynamics and whether such partnerships are simply typical family-run town customs or something a little more shadowy like local mafia influence. I guess these informal deals between parking attendants and nearby eateries can be just common practice across various tourist spots in Sicily.
Taking full advantage of the offer seemed like a total no-brainer, so settling down at an outdoor table to order fresh pizza and cold beer felt perfectly fitting. Likewise, spending around €20 for the whole meal made the deal feel even sweeter, especially given the idyllic setting right on a peaceful pedestrian street free from passing traffic. Relaxing in the calm atmosphere without car fumes or engine noise made the entire dining experience thoroughly enjoyable.
I was stunned how the resourceful locals handle challenges. It always brings a smile, especially when it comes to tackling the scorching summer heat. Furthermore, seeing these massive outdoor fan coolers stationed right on the cobblestones offered a brilliant example of ingenuity in action. In addition, filling the internal compartments with ice seems like the ultimate trick to transform the breeze into an icy gust of relief. On the other hand, the amusing detail lies in the brand name emblazoned on the front, proudly proclaiming them as “Master Climate Solutions”. Enjoying a meal beside such grandly titled cooling machines provided both a welcome breeze and a delightful touch of humour.
Indulging in a delicious pizza topped with onions and tuna made for an absolute delight. Pairing every warm slice with a crisp, ice-cold beer was pure perfection in this hot weather. Taking time to slowly savour those simple Italian flavours brought immense joy after a busy day of driving and exploring.
Once our stomachs were full we headed towards Cefalu, where our hotel was booked for two nights.
Capo Zafferano Beach
Stopping for a quick dip in the sea brought us to Capo Zafferano beach, though getting there required a slight detour as the main access road was mysteriously closed. Navigating back and driving around the block added a bit to the journey before finally reaching the shore. In addition, the beach itself was quite busy, packed with sun-seekers and vibrant parasols dotting the pebbles. On the other hand, the cove certainly held its own distinct charm, framed by a striking rock formation looming on one side and picturesque white houses clinging dramatically to the cliffs on the other. Enjoying a swift, refreshing swim was lovely, though staying too long amidst the lively crowds was not on the agenda.
More Rubbish by the Road
Driving along, the road was full of fascinating details and stunning views at every turn. Breathtaking vistas unfolded across the landscape, showcasing the stunning scenery of the region. In addition, a few of these picturesque spots were unfortunately polluted by scattered trash, an issue that I carefully documented and collected in a separate blog post.
Spiaggia di Mazzaforno
Continuing our journey, our next stop brought us to another lovely coastal spot, Spiaggia di Mazzaforno. Stepping into the water revealed a sea bed that was quite rocky and notoriously slippery underfoot. However, local caretakers had thoughtfully laid down heavy sandbags, creating a stable submerged walkway over the jagged stones so bathers could safely navigate through to the soft, sandy bottom beyond. Taking advantage of this clever little path allowed for a far smoother and more comfortable dip into the crystal-clear sea.
Arriving to Cefalu
After arriving in Cefalù, we quickly discovered traffic restriction signs indicating that driving into the historic centre was strictly limited to specific windows, roughly between 5:30 am to 9:30 am and a brief period in the afternoon and it was 4:50 pm. Furthermore, navigating the confusing parking signs scattered around town proved rather tricky, making finding an affordable parking spot near the centre nearly impossible. Don’t get me wrong there was a lot of parking, we just didn’t want to pay 50 euros for two days. In the end, parked down at the marina at the bottom of the hill, requiring us to unload the luggage first while I waited with the bags and my brother dropped off the car down the hill. Also, leaving the car at the marina offered a fantastic silver lining, as parking there turned out to be completely free.
Walking up to the hotel after parking the car down at the marina turned out to be a delightful stroll, it wasn’t entirely effortless but with the stunning scenery along the way it was worth it. Dragging all suitcases in the warm weather was rather difficult. First, we ambled along the elevated coastal path, pausing to admire the dramatic, rocky shoreline and the quiet sea stretching towards the horizon, where a small boat drifted under the soft afternoon sun. Transitioning inland, we then turned into the charming, narrow streets of Cefalù’s old town, passing cozy trattoria tables set out on the cobbles and stone buildings bathed in a warm, inviting glow. Moving further into the historic centre, we navigated the vibrant, winding alleyways lined with souvenir shops, wrought-iron balconies, and fellow travellers taking in the town’s lively evening atmosphere. Taking that scenic stroll made leaving the car at the bottom of the hill feel far more like a welcome highlight than a hassle.
Checking in To Hotel
We spent the following two nights staying at Hotel La Giara. The front desk offered us a room upgrade with a street-facing balcony for an extra €10. In addition, we definitely would have accepted the offer had we realised our actual window would look directly out at scaffolding in the inner yard. Missing out on a proper view made us quite disappointed, also it was quite stuffy in the room and no chance of opening the window in the evening.
The hotel clearly decided to save a few pennies when it came to decorating the walls. Hanging on the wall was a framed piece displaying nothing more than the store placeholder paper, complete with frame dimensions and brand logos. In addition, one could easily joke that this minimalist masterpiece represents ultra-modern abstract art at its finest. However, as I have mentioned before this wasn’t the worst part.
Inside the room, the décor also included a rather striking spiritual touch directly over the bed. Specifically, a framed image of Jesus hung right above the headboard, looking remarkably similar to the famous Christ Pantocrator mosaic found inside Cefalù Cathedral. Honestly, I would have enjoyed a picture from a local artists of Cefalu much more.
I Looked through the window, where the magnificent courtyard view greeted us in all its glorious splendour. Looking out revealed a breathtaking architectural ensemble of rusty industrial scaffolding, peeling metal planks, and a gigantic ventilation pipe that proudly dominated the entire vista. In addition to that, the courtyard had been designed with such utter perfection that even the pesky natural sunlight stood zero chance of penetrating the moody, cavernous abyss. On the other hand, who truly needed a sunny vista when an intimate, front-row seat to a perpetual construction zone was readily available? Declining that €10 street-view upgrade felt like an absolute masterstroke, granting exclusive access to this moody masterpiece of modern hospitality.
On the other hand, the hotel redeemingly featured a fantastic rooftop terrace that offered sweeping, spectacular vistas across Cefalu town. Stepping outside on the rooftop terrace revealed a sea of charming terracotta rooftops stretching all the way toward the majestic rock face looming in the background. In addition, the elevated vantage point provided an unbelievable view of Cefalù Cathedral, whose iconic towers stood proudly against the dramatic cliffside. Watching the warm sunset light glow over the historic rooftops completely made up for the dismal courtyard window below.
Rounding off the day, we finally sat down for a wonderful dinner boasting a stunning view of the iconic Cefalù Cathedral. Watching the golden lights illuminate the magnificent Norman twin towers as dusk fell created an extraordinarily atmospheric setting. In addition, indulging in delicious Sicilian dishes while gazing at such a historic landmark provided the ultimate reward after a long drive from Palermo via Monreale. Relaxing in the lively square with delicious food and an unforgettable backdrop brought our memorable day to a perfect end.
Tomorrow we were thinking of climbing La Rocca de Cefalu to see the Temple of Diana.