Ultimate Palermo Guide: Street Art, Arancini & Best Cannoli

The streets of Palermo look much better during day time. Though buildings are falling down, so hurry up if you want to see that view. Some streets were quite dirty and full of trash. I will make a separate blog post about the dark side of Sicily.

Graffiti Filled Streets of Palermo

Walking through the historic alleys of Palermo revealed a captivating tapestry of urban life, where centuries-old architecture constantly intertwined with modern artistic expressions. Narrow streets framed by towering stone facades and classic iron balconies opened up to sunlit cobblestones, with colourful lines of laundry hanging overhead while we watched local scooter riders navigate the tight passageways. Furthermore, lush greenery brought an inviting warmth to the historic setting, seen in charming spots where we admired vibrant potted plants and unique suspended moss balls, known as kokedama, dangling gracefully above the alleyways. Additionally, we found charming outdoor dining streets that offered a lovely setting to soak in the authentic Sicilian atmosphere.

The city’s vibrant street art scene added a bold layer of character to nearly every corner we explored. Striking graffiti and elaborate murals decorated shutter doors, weathered walls, and even scaffolded historic buildings waiting for restoration. For instance, we spotted a dramatic mural depicting Santa Muerte right next to colourful modern graffiti tags, showcasing how traditional imagery and modern urban art peacefully coexisted side by side.

Palermo features an extraordinary abundance of graffiti and street art due to a combination of historic urban neglect, social political commentary, and local revitalisation efforts. For decades following the destruction of the World War II, many historic neighbourhoods such as the Kalsa and Ballarò suffered from extensive urban decay, leaving numerous empty lots, crumbling plaster, and abandoned facades that provided ideal blank canvases for expressive artists. Additionally, local creators and international muralists began using these public surfaces to voice strong political statements, particularly regarding anti-Mafia resistance, social justice, and cultural diversity. Furthermore, city grassroots organisations and cultural festivals actively encouraged urban regeneration initiatives, inviting painters to transform neglected alleyways into vibrant open-air galleries. This ongoing visual dialogue between ancient architecture and contemporary creative expression continues to turn every neighbourhood corner into a dynamic reflection of the city’s complex identity.

We observed that several parked vehicles appeared remarkably weathered, echoing the rustic charm of the crumbling walls in Old Palermo. The aged, sun-faded paint and rusted edges of the cars seemed to mirror the cracked plaster and exposed brickwork of the ancient buildings nearby. These worn-out vehicles blended so naturally into the historic cityscape that they almost looked like deliberate vintage installations to us. The sight of the battered automobiles against the backdrop of historic architecture created a uniquely rustic scene during our walk through the neighbourhood.

We noticed that many walls across Palermo were fortified with sturdy metal constructions to hold the ancient masonry together.

Heavy iron braces, tie rods, and structural scaffolding hugged the weathered stone surfaces of the historic buildings. Furthermore, these metal supports revealed the ongoing efforts required to preserve the city’s aging architectural heritage against the passage of time. Seeing the industrial steel framework set directly against the medieval brickwork added another intriguing layer of contrast to our journey through the streets.

This bold doorway mural caught our eye against an overgrown wall, turning quiet side streets into spontaneous open-air galleries. Wandering through these expressive streets provided us with an endlessly fascinating glimpse into the living, breathing heart of Palermo.

Colonna dell’Immacolata

First we walked to see Colonna dell’Immacolata in Plaza San Domenico next to San Domenico Church (Chiesa San Domenico) which we didn’t manage to get in unfortunately.

The Colonna dell’Immacolata (Column of the Immaculate) is a monument located in the city of Palermo, Sicily. It was commissioned by the city’s mayor, Francesco Gioeni, in 1857 to commemorate the dogma of the Immaculate Conception proclaimed by Pope Pius IX in 1854. The monument was designed by the Sicilian sculptor Giuseppe Serpotta and is composed of two large marble columns, each one topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary, the patroness of Palermo. The columns are decorated with reliefs of angels and symbols of the Immaculate Conception, such as lilies, stars, and a dove.

The monument was erected in Piazza Caracciolo, near the Quattro Canti, and was inaugurated in 1859 by the mayor of Palermo. Since then, the Colonna dell’Immacolata has become a symbol of the city and is visited by many tourists and pilgrims every year.

Massimo Theater

Then we strolled by Massimo Theater which looks really impressive! Great example of classicism architecture!

Massimo Theater, or Teatro Massimo, is an opera house and the largest theater in Italy and the third largest in Europe.

The theater was first proposed by the mayor of Palermo, Emanuele Notarbartolo, in 1875. Work began on the building in 1891 and was completed in 1897. The first performance was an opera by Pietro Mascagni called “Cavalleria Rusticana”.

Since then, Massimo Theater has become a major cultural centre in Palermo and has hosted numerous operas, ballets, and performances from international artists. It is home to the Sicilian Symphony Orchestra, and it is the site of the annual Palermo Festival of Music and the Arts.

The theater has also been used as a filming location for a number of films, including “The Godfather Part III” and “The Talented Mr. Ripley”. It also featured prominently in the television series “Inspector Montalbano”.

Massimo Theater remains one of the most beloved attractions in Palermo and is a testament to the city’s long cultural and artistic history.

Cattedrale di Palermo

After that we headed to Cattedrale di Palermo. Magnificent building and must see in Palermo!

The Cattedrale di Palermo, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary, is the main church of Palermo, Sicily. It is located in the historic city center near the Palazzo dei Normanni. It has been an important place of worship for the people of Palermo since the 11th century.

The Cattedrale di Palermo was first built in 1072 by the Norman rulers of Sicily. The original design of the church was Romanesque. Over the centuries, however, the building was modified several times, with the addition of a Gothic-style façade in the 13th century, a Baroque-style dome in the 17th century, and several other renovations. The church was also used as a mosque during the occupation of Sicily by the Moors.

Today, the Cattedrale di Palermo is an impressive example of Sicilian architecture. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the largest churches in Italy. Inside the church, visitors can admire the beautiful frescoes and sculptures, as well as the tombs of several members of the royal family.

We’ve paid for entry tickets to get on the roof terrace, cript and museum. Total 10€ per person. Totally worth it! Especially the roof top!

It was nice to cool down a but in the crypt as outside was 36°C.

Villa Bonanno

Villa Bonanno is a historic villa located near Porta Nuova in Palermo, Sicily. It was built in the 19th century by the Bonanno family, who were one of the most powerful and influential families in Sicily in the 18th and 19th centuries. The villa was designed in the Neoclassical style, with a central courtyard and two long wings that flank the sides. The villa has been renovated and is now a popular tourist attraction in Palermo. Visitors can take guided tours of the interior, which includes a library, chapel, and various other rooms. It was a very nice park to pass by.

Porta Nuova

We reached Porta Nuova in no time from Villa Bonanno. Porta Nuova is a historic gate in Palermo, Sicily, located in the south-east corner of the old city walls. The gate was constructed in the late 16th century by the Spanish viceroy of Sicily, Juan de Vega, as part of the city’s fortification system. The gate is built in the Baroque style, with a central arch flanked by two smaller ones, flanked by two round towers. The gate has been restored and is now a popular tourist attraction in Palermo. It is one of the few remaining gates of the old city walls, and is a reminder of Palermo’s rich history and culture.

We decided not to go to Norman Palace, which includes Capella Palantina as it was another 10 € and for two 20 € as we were on the budget.

Quick Traditional Sicilian Lunch

Suddenly, we felt hungry. We stopped at a local establishment called Sfrigola Palermo, which specialised in traditional arancini. A single arancino cost 2.50€, while a beer cost 4.50€. Furthermore, the arancini proved to be absolutely delicious!

The venue provided a memorable culinary pitstop during the walk through the city. Founded as a dedicated arancineria, Sfrigola Palermo became renowned for preparing these beloved Sicilian fried rice balls fresh to order right in front of customers. The menu allowed diners to choose between classic fillings like slow-cooked ragù with peas or creamy ham and butter, alongside various gourmet seasonal options. Additionally, watching the skilled staff shape, bread, and fry the crispy golden spheres offered a delightful glimpse into authentic Sicilian street food culture. Stopping there offered the perfect quick fuel for further sightseeing.

The venue featured a lovely board displaying flags from the various home countries of visiting customers, and Lithuania appeared there as well!

The charming display board added a delightful personal touch to the shop, highlighting how popular the spot had become with travellers from all over the world. Furthermore, seeing the familiar yellow, green, and red flag created an instant feeling of connection so far from home. Spotting one’s own national flag on a local venue’s wall always brings a warm smile during a trip abroad. The brief visit felt even more special as a result.

Traditional Desert

While we were walking towards Cappuccini catacombs, we paused for a quick coffee and a cannolo. The coffee cost just 1€, and the cannolo was exceptionally delicious for 2€.

Enjoying a fresh cannolo offered a delightful introduction to one of Sicily’s most famous pastry traditions. Local bakeries throughout Palermo traditionally roll out thin rounds of dough, wrap them around metal tubes, and deep-fry them until crisp shells form. Bakers then fill the golden shells with sweet, creamy ricotta cheese, which craftsmen often garnish with candied orange peel or chopped pistachios. Additionally, pairing the crisp, sweet pastry with a strong espresso provided the ideal energy boost for the walk ahead. The brief cafe stop became another memorable moment of the journey.

An amusing observation emerged as we noticed that local residents rarely seemed to use standard printers, preferring instead to write signs on whatever materials were at hand. A sign had even been written on a piece of takeaway food packaging. Another handwritten notice indicated that cleaning was in progress inside the bathroom!

The spontaneous handwritten sign showcased a delightfully practical approach to everyday communication. Local shopkeepers frequently grab cardboard, recycled boxes, or spare food packaging to jot down quick messages for passing visitors. I just wonder if it is actually being cleaned or this is to keep visitors away from the bathroom?

An interesting abandoned building decorated with intricate wooden carvings appeared along our way. The weathered facade of the structure immediately caught our attention as we walked past. Ornate timber elements had been carved into the exterior framing, offering a captivating glimpse into the craftsmanship of a bygone era.

When we arrived at the Capuccini Catacombs, we discovered that the gates were locked. The facility had closed at 2:00 pm, and our arrival occurred at 2:08 pm. The closure brought a wave of disappointment! The site might have reopened later in the afternoon, but the timetable failed to indicate any evening hours. Information regarding the opening times had been noted earlier at a tourist information office, but whether those details were outdated remained unclear.

Walking all the way back to the city centre was exhausting in the intense heat of the day. Taking the car would have been an option, but finding a parking space had proven so difficult initially that moving the vehicle felt far too risky. The long trek back on foot remained the only viable choice (or taxi). Furthermore, navigating the hot streets tested our endurance during the return journey.

Chiesa del Gesù (Casa Professa)

We stopped at the baroque style Church of the Gesù, which local residents often refer to as Casa Professa. Paying an entrance fee was requested for going inside, so taking a few photographs before entering the doorway seemed like the best option before we departed.

The courtyard revealed a church that represents one of the most prominent examples of Sicilian Baroque architecture in Palermo. Construction of the building began under the Jesuits in 1564, and craftsmen subsequently spent over a century expanding the structure into a magnificent monument. Architectural artists decorated the exterior with impressive sandstone pilasters and statued niches. Inside the sanctuary, master carvers created world-famous polychrome marble inlays (marmi mischi), ornate stuccoes, and dynamic ceiling frescoes. The site unfortunately suffered severe damage during aerial bombings in 1943, but dedicated restorers subsequently managed to rebuild the landmark to its original glory.

Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio

We made a brief stop at Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, popularly known as La Martorana, which quickly proved to be one of the absolute highlights of Palermo. Stepping inside required a modest entrance fee of 3€, which granted us access to a truly fascinating sanctuary of art and history.

Entering the church immediately revealed a breathtaking blend of artistic eras. Founded in 1143 by George of Antioch, the Grand Admiral to King Roger II, the building was created to honour the Virgin Mary. Moving beneath the soaring ceilings brought into view magnificent 12th-century gold-leaf Byzantine mosaics. Looking upward toward the central cupola revealed a striking depiction of Christ Pantocrator surrounded by archangels, which stood as one of the oldest and most intact mosaic cycles in Sicily.

Fascinating historical details surround every corner of this unique site. The popular name La Martorana stems from a nearby Benedictine convent founded by Eloisa Martorana, where local nuns famously invented the traditional frutta di martorana marzipan treats. Later centuries brought dramatic architectural updates, seamlessly joining the medieval gold with intricate 17th-century Sicilian Baroque marble inlays (marmi mischi) and vibrant ceiling frescoes. Recognised today as part of Palermo’s UNESCO-listed Arab-Norman circuit, the church remains an active place of worship for the Italo-Albanian Greek-Catholic community, maintaining a living bridge to its rich multi-cultural heritage.

Church of San Cataldo

We decided not to enter the Church of San Cataldo, as doing so required a separate admission ticket and again we were on the tight budget.

Standing prominently in Palermo’s historic centre, the Church of San Cataldo remains one of the most distinctive and beloved architectural landmarks in Sicily. Founded around 1154 by Maio of Bari, who served as the Grand Admiral to King William I of Sicily, the structure represents a quintessential example of Arab-Norman architecture. The striking exterior is instantly recognisable by its three bright red, hemispherical domes set atop a compact stone cube decorated with delicate blind arches, heavily influenced by Fatimid Islamic traditions. Its outstanding cultural value eventually earned it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list as part of the Arab-Norman Palermo circuit.

Following the assassination of Maio of Bari in 1160, the interior was left mostly undecorated, leaving bare stone walls alongside ancient reused marble columns and a beautifully preserved 12th-century mosaic floor. The church served unexpected roles over the centuries, even functioning as a royal post office during the late 18th century. A careful 19th-century restoration returned the structure to its original medieval state, and the site has been maintained under the guardianship of the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem since the 1930s.

Fontana Pretoria in Piazza Pretoria

On our way home, we passed Piazza Pretoria and its famous centrepiece, the Fontana Pretoria. Standing before the monumental structure allowed us to marvel at the fascinating sculptures surrounding the grand fountain.

Constructed during the 16th century by Florentine sculptor Francesco Camilliani, the massive marble fountain originally adorned a private villa in Florence before the Senate of Palermo purchased the artwork in 1573. Master craftsmen carefully dismantled the entire structure into 644 individual marble pieces, which workers subsequently transported across the sea and reassembled in the heart of the Sicilian capital. Furthermore, the elaborate tiering features dynamic statues representing the twelve Olympian gods, mythical sea monsters, allegorical figures, and the four ancient rivers of Palermo. Local residents historically nicknamed the monument the Fontana della Vergogna, or “Fountain of Shame”, owing to the nude marble figures facing the surrounding convent and church buildings. Admiring the grand marble masterpiece under the open sky provided a truly memorable highlight during our evening walk back.

Quattro Canti Fountains

Our last stop brought us to Quattro Canti, the famous four corners featuring their iconic fountains. Finding ourselves at the landmark meant we were right next to the busy pedestrian street, which we had accidentally driven through earlier.

Officially named Piazza Vigliena, the historic intersection was commissioned in 1608 by the Spanish Viceroy, Duke of Villena, to mark the crossing of Palermo’s two main thoroughfares, Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Architects designed the four surrounding building facades to form a near-perfect octagonal plaza, decorating each quadrant with three distinct tiers of statues. Furthermore, the lowest level showcases fountains representing the four ancient rivers of Palermo, while the middle tiers feature statues of the four Spanish kings of Sicily, capped by figures of the four patron saints of the city on the top levels. Standing in the centre of the vibrant plaza provided a fittingly grand conclusion to our walk through the city.

Lidl Supermarket Shopping

Our very final stop was Lidl to pick up some wine for the evening. Finding a glass bottle of wine for under €2 or a carton for less than €1 proved surprisingly easy, with both tasting remarkably good for the price. In addition, the local loose oranges (Arance Sfuse) were exceptionally delicious and full of flavour. Paying just 57 euro cents for half a kilogram felt like an incredible bargain to round off our shopping trip.

Best Arancini in Palermo

Best Cannoli in Palermo