On the 4th day we woke up and we didn’t have to rush as yesterday since we had to pickup a fourth friend from the airport at mid day and then to head to El Roque de los Muchachos.
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We arrived to the airport too early and since there was no free parking at the airport we decided to wait near by. There was an aeronautics club/restaurant nearby with a big parking lot. I parked there and we were enjoying the view of the Atlantic ocean, planes going up and down while waiting for our friend.
Once we picked him up, we stopped for a lunch in Santa Cruz at an Italian restaurant called Piccolo – Pizza & Pasta near calle Real. This is probably the best pizzeria in the entire island and it is ran by an Italian guy. It also tends to get very busy in the evenings.
This restaurant is the same as I remember it 6 years ago. People super chilled, not in a rush. Restaurant opens at 12am, but it took them 30min to set everything up. We patiently waited lurking next to it…
El Roque de los Muchachos
After stuffing our stomachs with pizza we headed on to El Roque de los Muchachos, where I used to do my internship for a year 6 years ago.
The road was steep and very curvy. I had to be careful of falling stones and incoming cars. Also the asphalt was worn out in some places. Sometimes the road was very extreme and windy with a lot of pine tree spikes, which makes it very slippery (especially with some rain!) or equally bad when there is a fog and you can see 1-2 meters ahead only. I remember once riding up that rode in a Amber alert (it was some rain and very strong winds) to the telescope and at some point the wind pushed the front of the car so hard that I slid on those spikes like on ice head on towards the rock wall. Luckily I managed to twist the wheel and I ended up with my two side wheels in the water drainage gap next to the wall. No damage done to me or the car. It could have ended up tragically. My entire life flashed in front of my eyes!
El Roque de los Muchachos, part of La Palma’s Caldera de Taburiente National Park, formed over millions of years through volcanic activity. The island of La Palma emerged from the ocean as volcanic eruptions built up the landmass. This process eventually created the caldera, a large volcanic crater. Over time, erosion and further volcanic activity shaped the dramatic landscape of peaks and ridges, with El Roque de los Muchachos being one of the highest points.
Once on the top, we stopped at couple places for pictures as the views were majestic.
El Roque de los Muchachos viewpoint
We passed the place where I used to work and we were heading very steep road to the top to the highest peak of the mountain, where it had a viewpoint, to tale a look at La Caldera.
Some of my friends went on this path with flip flops. Well I would highly recommend hiking shoes or at least trainers. The rocks can be sharp and slippery and my friends were suffering walking there.
I went alone to the very end to get a better look at La Caldera. The views are stunning and we were lucky that were no clouds. Though sometimes it looks nicer with clouds.
Thanks to calima – Sáhara sand in the atmosphere, the weather all days was very warm and pretty sunny. Though quite often can’t see the horizon because of the dust.
On the right hand side the telescope where I used to work – Nordic Optical Telescope or NOT for short. Other telescopes can be seen in the horizon: Isaac Newton Telescope and etc.
Gran Telescopio de Canarias (GTC)
At 5:00pm we had to be at Gran Telescopio de Canarias (GTC) – the largest optical telescope in the world at the moment. I’ve managed to get a favour via my good friend who used to work at GTC, so we saved around 80 € on a tour, as official guides are around 20€ per person and you need to book them in advance. We were lucky and we’ve got a private guided tour.
First, we watched a short movie intro to the telescope. Then, local engineer explained us the complexity of telescope mirrors, building and mechanics showing the actual telescope. It was a pity that we just had a glimpse of a back of the Telescope. This was because they just changed couple mirrors and they couldn’t move it so we could see the entire magnificent reflective surface of it. Oh well, it was great to be able see it in the first place and also for free! You can book the visit online via the link below.
Gran Telescopio Canarias (GTC) is one of the world’s largest optical-infrared telescopes, its primary mirror, with a staggering diameter of 10.4 metres, comprises 36 meticulously aligned hexagonal segments. This impressive design allows the GTC to collect vast amounts of light, enabling the detailed observation of even the faintest celestial bodies in the universe.
The inception of the GTC dates back to 1997, a collaborative endeavour involving Spain, Mexico, and the University of Florida. After a decade of meticulous construction, involving really innovative engineering solutions due to the size of moving parts, the telescope was completed in 2007 and commenced scientific operations by 2009. Since then, it has played a pivotal role in advancing our understanding of the cosmos. Researchers utilise its powerful capabilities to explore phenomena such as distant galaxies, star formation, and even the intriguing worlds of exoplanets.
Technological innovation is at the heart of the GTC, equipped with state-of-the-art spectrographs that allow astronomers to conduct detailed studies of various astronomical objects. Its strategic location on La Palma, at an altitude of about 2,400 metres, offers exceptional atmospheric conditions. The low light pollution and clear skies at this altitude make it an unparalleled site for astronomical observations. It cost approximately €130 million to build.
MAGIC telescopes
On our way down I was gazing at my Favourite gamma ray telescopes called MAGIC. The MAGIC (Major Atmospheric Gamma Imaging Cherenkov) telescope is designed to detect gamma rays from cosmic sources, MAGIC comprises two Cherenkov telescopes, each with a large dish measuring 17 metres in diameter. These instruments allow scientists to study high-energy phenomena such as supernovae, black holes, and distant galaxies, contributing to our understanding of the universe. The site on La Palma offers optimal conditions due to its high altitude and low light pollution, making it ideal for astrophysical research. It cost approximately 4 million Euros to build.
I find MAGIC the most beautiful telescope on the mountain. Really fascinating peace of engineering.
Nordic Optical Telescope (NOT)
On our way back we passed Nordic Optical Telescope (NOT), but unfortunately we didn’t stop there
The NOT telescope has been a cornerstone of astronomical research since it became operational in 1989. This 2.56-metre optical/infrared telescope is the result of a collaborative effort among Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden. The project was conceived to bolster astronomical research across these Nordic countries, promoting shared expertise and resources.
Construction of the NOT began in the mid-1980s, with a focus on precision engineering to maximise its observational capabilities. The telescope features state-of-the-art adaptive optics, a technological marvel that corrects for atmospheric distortions, allowing for exceptionally clear imaging.
Throughout its operational history, the NOT has made significant contributions to various fields of astronomy. Researchers utilise its capabilities to explore a diverse range of phenomena, including supernovae, exoplanets, and the intricate structure of galaxies.
I have shared my video from the time working there.
Stargazing on El Roque de los Muchachos
First, you must choose the right season to visit La Palma when there is the least of clouds, otherwise you won’t see a thing, especially when there is a mist on the mountain, even though you will be above the clouds most of the time. The least cloud seasons in La Palma are typically spring (March-May) and fall (September-November).
Roque de los Muchachos is notable for possessing one of the clearest skies on Earth, attributed to the island’s unique natural factors including its location, climate, and environmental quality. Although a protected area, it offers easy access by car and various trails.
The access road leading to the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory is closed to the general public during nighttime hours. This measure is implemented to ensure the best possible conditions for astronomical observations and to help protect the sensitive local environment. Nevertheless, visitors can still find alternative observation points that remain accessible by car, or they have the option to park outside the designated observatory area and proceed on foot to the telescopes. However, you must not use torches (especially bright ones) or laser pointers not to interrupt the observations in the telescopes. The same applies to the long car lights, once you are up on the mountain, even before the barrier. Your laser or lights can ruin hours of observation data if it passes in the field where telescope is pointing. Those exposures (scientific term for taking a picture of the sky for a long time) sometimes last from 30 to 60 minutes!
Fortunately, alternative observation points are available along the LP-4 road before a designated barrier, allowing visitors to still enjoy the impressive night sky.
The easiest way is to book one of the experiences on Get Your Guide, unless you are planning to bring your own binocular or telescope.
Viewpoint of Los Llanos
It took around 2 hours to drive back to the apartment. We also took the different road to the west side as it was closer to Puerto Naos through Tijarafe rather than going through Santa Cruz.
We stopped at Mirador el Time to take a look at Los Llanos. We also had a coffee and some Ice cream to cool down as it was quite warm compared to the top of the mountain.
Everyone was so tired after a long day in Santa Cruz and then El Roque de Los Muchachos.