Today I was heading to Lop Buri to see the monkey temple. As usual here I woke up very early. At 7:00 am I was ready for breakfast with all my bags packed. The apartment staff was very kind to arrange a Tuk Tuk to the Railway station for 120 baht (I’ve paid 150 baht to come here from the Railway station). They also suggested making breakfast earlier at 7:30 am instead of normal breakfast stat time at 8:00 am. Today I got some fried rice with egg and prawns.
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Tuk tuk came 5 minutes earlier and I was already ready to go. I arrived early, so I had to wait in the train station. The train was also a few minutes delayed. It was very clear which platform my train train was departing from. The screen shows train route numbers and platforms. Without the route number I would need Google translate as all the rest is in Thai.
I boarded the train, found my seat and some Thai woman was sitting there. I told her it was my seat and she immediately apologized, bowed a few times and left. The carriage was really worn out, but in all fairness nicer than the one I took in Delhi to Agra.
Oh yes, there was no AC as promised when booking online. Open windows and fans on the ceiling was the Thai AC. Well at least it was only an hour ride, so it was OK.
I enjoyed looking at the rice fields: some green, some yellow and some just looked like a swamp. I tried taking pictures, but the cables running alongside the rail makes it difficult. I must say the views somehow always were better on the left side of the carriage, but the right side had no cables, so better views for pictures.
Oh yes, the front of the first carriage was reserved for monks, disabled and senior citizens. Also if you’re a woman you should never sit next to a monk as you could break their scared wow to never touch a woman.
I didn’t even feel how that hour passed so quickly and it was time to leave the train at Lop Buri. The rails are literally there by the road and you can see trains passing and dogs running on the rails.
The apartment I stayed at was 5 min walk from the station. I dropped off my bag, paid for the accommodation 600 baht (~£ 14) + 200 key deposit and was heading to see the monkeys.
https://www.booking.com/Share-pudP3F
While I was walking I realised that she didn’t give me any receipt for payment or deposit. I already ran in my head scenarios what would happen if she asked again to pay. I chased away my intrusive thoughts again and it was fine in the end.
Phra Prang Sam Yot
Phra Prang Sam Yot—Lop Buri’s most famous ancient temple and, quite possibly, the world’s most chaotic monkey playground! This was my next stop on my trip.
Imagine a stunning 13th-century Khmer temple, with three towering prangs (towers) symbolising the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Now, picture it absolutely overrun by a horde of mischievous, banana-craving macaques. Welcome to Lop Buri’s the most unique tourist attraction!
The only way to run away from these macaques is to enter inside of Phra Prang Sam Yot temple and watch out that none of them gets in. You can safely watch them from inside through the bars, like from jail, and observe them conspiring against the next attack on you.
There is also a headless Buddha statue inside of the temple.
These monkeys have mastered the art of pickpocketing, snack-stealing, and photobombing tourists with an energy level that makes coffee seem weak. Hold on to your sunglasses, hats, and especially your snacks, unless you fancy an impromptu game of “catch me if you can” with a furry thief. I borrowed the stick (which doesn’t really work and little monkeys just play with it) and when I tried to catch the furry thief, who stole an empty sunscreen bottle from a side pocket of my backpack (I didn’t want them to eat chemicals), a whole herd of them jumped in front (like 7-10) and started showing their teeth blocking passage to the little monkey. The hell with them I though. It was not worth a bite and a trip to a hospital to get the rabies shot so I left the bottle with them. First the spray cap came off, and little macaque picked it up to play with it, biting it. Then the bigger macaque tried to open the bottle with its teeth with no luck. In the end, I saw macaque dropped the bottled and immediately a very old one grabbed it like a talisman and carried it proudly back to the top of the temple.
But despite the monkey mayhem, Phra Prang Sam Yot is a truly mesmerising historical site, showcasing the beautiful craftsmanship of the Khmer Empire. It’s like Cambodia’s Angkor Wat but with 500% more monkey business and I’ve seen a lot of other monkey business going on down there.
COVID-19 monkey mayhem in Lop Buri
During COVID-19, the monkeys of Lop Buri basically went full apocalypse mode.
With Thailand’s lockdowns and the disappearance of tourists—aka their main food suppliers—Lop Buri’s macaques turned into hangry little hooligans. Normally, they relied on visitors to shower them with snacks, but when the flow of tourists stopped, things got Mad Max: Monkey Edition real quick.
With no easy food, rival monkey gangs started warring over scraps in the streets, leading to viral videos of hundreds of macaques brawling like kung fu extras over a single banana. Locals, desperate to keep the peace, began leaving out food offerings, but this just made the monkeys even bolder. They started breaking into shops, raiding homes, and basically running the city like furry little mob bosses. If you’ve seen the Planet of the Apes then you know what I am talking about.
I was leaving the temple, with my face licked by one little macaque and feeling dirty from all of them climbing on me and I thought well at least I didn’t get bitten. At that moment, I guess from a little chocking experience, while I was going the steps down I tripped and almost twisted my ankle and bruised my shin. I immediately disinfected it and covered with band aid (it’s good I packed some!) and I just can hope that I won’t get rabies from that (a very small chance from contracting it from surfaces). I guess we will find out in a year (as rabies can take up to 12 months to show symptoms, at which point is too late to do anything about it).
The situation got so wild that authorities had to step in and sterilise hundreds of monkeys to control the booming population. But let’s be real—Lop Buri is still their turf. Even post-pandemic, the monkey mafia rules the streets, and tourists better come prepared… or risk becoming part of the next viral monkey heist.
Moral of the story? Never underestimate a hungry monkey.
Tips for visiting monkeys in Lop Buri
The entrance is 50 baht (I think I paid 20 baht for some reason as I remember getting change from 50 baht). You can also buy a multiple site ticket for 150 baht which includes a few places (including the temple next to Railway station and Ambassador’s house). I think it is worth it if you plan to visit many places, but if only one day trip probably not worth it
Hide everything in your zipped bag from any pockets (trousers, bags). They can even open zips on the short pockets. Hide any shiny things like jewellery, glasses, etc.
Don’t bring food. First, they can steal it. Second, imagine 10 monkeys jumping on you without food, so now imagine when you have food. Third, you are not allowed to feed them in Lop Buri and you can get a hefty fine of up to 2000 baht.
They can give you a stick at the entrance, but don’t be fooled, they will just play with your stick and they are not really afraid of it. If you don’t want them climbing on you keep the distance.
Be careful. Those are wild animals. They can bite if provoked. Also when playing with little ones, observe their parents and they start showing their teeth back away straight away. You’ve been warned! They are quite defensive of their little ones. If you get bitten then rabies shots at the hospital are required and your holiday will probably be ruined. Also those sticks they provide is useless, but if it makes you feel better, get it. Just don’t use on the monkeys as you might get into a real trouble.
Wear dirty clothes, as after the visit you will need to wash them anyway as all the monkeys will be climbing on you. I also washed due to saliva on the pocket zippers, as they opened all of my pockets. Good there was no zipper in the middle of my shorts lol
After this little adventure I headed back to Nooms Restaurant to have a quick lunch. I did try to find another place, but when I passed by it, it didn’t look very appetising. I was craving for some western food, so I got a cheeseburger and some waffles with ice cream for dessert. I ended up paying 500 baht (~£ 12) for that and a couple of beers. It was worth it.
After seeing the monkeys I went to check in to the room. I booked Noom Guest House & Restaurant.
The room was simple, but the AC was working well. It was quiet had everything it needs for a good sleep and the restaurant was just next door to buy dinner or breakfast. Though the sheets I doubt have been washed properly as they had some stains on them. Also dark colour towels, so hard to tell if they are very clean. Well at least I don’t need to be afraid of drying my feet like in Bangkok.
I also had these two furry friends outside of my room door in the little garden. That garden would be nice to have a smoke if I was smoking haha. The lady cleaning the rooms did tell me the names, but I forgot. People always are intrigued in Thailand when they see me taking pictures of the cats. They are the best posers! That cat had a web on he face and wasn’t moving at all. Very catatonic. The other one was a big poser, jumping around and meowing all the time. It went on my chair first, then table and then climbed on the fence. This one really loved attention.
Wat Phrasi Rattana Mahathat in Lop Buri
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat in Lop Buri is an ancient temple with a history as rich as a royal feast!
Believed to date back to the 12th century, during the Khmer Empire’s reign, this temple was originally built in the Khmer style, much like its famous neighbor, Phra Prang Sam Yot. Later, during the Ayutthaya period (14th–18th centuries), it was expanded and modified, blending Khmer and Thai architectural styles.
The temple’s central prang (tower), standing majestically, is one of Lop Buri’s tallest and most iconic landmarks. It was once a Buddhist pilgrimage site, filled with stunning murals and sculptures. Over the centuries, it witnessed the rise and fall of kingdoms, battles, and even Lop Buri’s time as a royal capital under King Narai the Great in the 17th century.
Today, while partially in ruins, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat remains a stunning historical site, which you will immediately notice just leaving the Railway station.
The entrance was 50 baht or included in the combined ticket of 150 baht.
While visiting I also saw a group of the monks and few of them were taking pictures on their smartphones. I didn’t know that monks are allowed to have mobile phones, but apparently they are allowed for communication, learning and spreading Buddha teachings. Nevertheless, I found it funny.
I also saw the Asian Koel – that bird that makes annoying, but somehow soul soothing sound at 5 am in the morning. I got a really good shot with my Canon Powershot SX70 HS super zoom.
Ban Xhaophraya Wichayen
Ban Chaophraya Wichayen, also known as Vichayen House or Ambassador’s house, is a fascinating 17th-century European-style residence in Lop Buri, Thailand. It was built during the reign of King Narai the Great (1656–1688) for Constantine Phaulkon, the Greek-born minister who became one of the most powerful figures in the Siamese court.
This mansion was essentially Thailand’s first diplomatic hub, serving as a residence for French envoys, missionaries, and traders during King Narai’s ambitious efforts to modernise and strengthen ties with Western powers. The compound included a palace-like residence, a church, and administrative buildings, all showcasing a unique blend of Thai, European, and Persian architectural influences.
Unfortunately for Phaulkon, his power made him a lot of enemies. In 1688, amid political turmoil and an anti-foreigner uprising, he was arrested and executed. After that, Ban Chaophraya Wichayen was abandoned and fell into ruins.
There was a lot of these little guys (looks like sparrows) in the villa for some reason.
Sparrows at the villa
Phra Narai Ratchaniwet
Phra Narai Ratchaniwet (King Narai’s Palace) was built in 1666 by King Narai the Great, who ruled the Ayutthaya Kingdom from 1656 to 1688. King Narai designated Lop Buri as the second capital of the Ayutthaya Kingdom and resided here for about 8-9 months each year, except during the rainy season. The palace served as a place for relaxation, hunting, administering state affairs, and welcoming foreign visitors. After King Narai’s death in 1688, Lop Buri and the palace were abandoned. Nearly two centuries later, King Mongkut (Rama IV) of the Rattanakosin Kingdom ordered its restoration in 1856 and built new throne halls. He also renamed it Phra Narai Ratchaniwet. Later, during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), some parts of the palace were used as the Lop Buri City Hall. In 1924, the Chantarapisarn Pavilion within the palace was opened as a museum, initially called the Lopburi Museum, which was later renamed the Somdet Phra Narai National Museum in 1961.
I wanted to visit this museum, but since I went quite late all I got just few photos from outside. So do check working time before your visit.
Prang Khaek
Prang Khaek is an ancient Hindu shrine. It is one of the oldest religious sites in the region, believed to date back to the Dvaravati period, around the 7th to 11th centuries. The site consists of three brick prangs, or towers, which are typical of Khmer architecture. You can see them from the street as they are next to the traffic.
I passed them when I left King Narai’s Palace and was heading to monkey temple to take more pictures from outside.
The second evening I grabbed dinner from one of the stalls in the street market. 40 baht for prawn Pad Thai sounded a bargain! They sat me at one of the tables behind their stall. I could see all the dirty dishes soaking in the water and I thought well at least they are washing them and then I thought if I will get the dish washed in one of those murky water bowls. I felt a slight disgust from the thought, but then I chased it away. Also, at the same moment I heard something moving next to me in the bucket and then I saw it! A rat, covering the diameter of that bucket! I thought fine I will document it and while I was preparing my camera it jumped out, splashing my leg and table with whatever contents of that waste bucket. That moment I felt very disgusted.
The food arrived. It did look delicious. I was still thinking of the contents of that liquid on my leg and table. I quickly ate the food, feeling the spiciness of chillies that I’ve put on top and avoiding touching the contaminated surface of the table. I gave her the money and walked away. Then I noticed that my mobile was covered in oil from the table I’ve placed it on. I rushed to my apartment and literally submerged my phone under running water to wash it off. Next I cleaned my leg with soap to wash that liquid from a bucket with a rat. “It was at least good food” – I thought to myself.
I’ve opened a can of beer that I’ve purchased in the supermarket for 50 baht and started downloading 648 photos and videos from my camera to my phone…
Monkey graffiti in Lop Buri
I’ve noticed there is quite few graffiti in Lop Buri depicting macaques or the Phra Prang Sam Yot temple where I walked. To be honest, I explored very little part of Lop Buri, but it was a nice short stay.
It seems the monkeys are an integral part of Lop Buri’s identity and since a major tourist attraction, the local artists and even businesses might use monkey graffiti as a way to celebrate this unique aspect of their city and create a visual theme that resonates with visitors. It gives a monkey city feel indeed.
Tips for Lop Buri
- Try food in the market on the road north from the Railway station. Pad Thai was very cheap and delicious.
- Be ware of monkeys and keep all in your closed bag. They can open pockets, so be cautions and don’t bring food. Feeding them is illegal and land you with a fine.
- In close proximity to monkeys, be cautions and pay attention to them. If monkeys start showing their teeth it is sign it is not happy, especially when interacting with their little babies. They can be defensive and attack you, which will result in you going to the hospital for rabies shot.
- Book train up north way in advance as it is get to get the tickets a week before.
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