The trek today was supposed to involve ascending Tizi Mzik pass and then towards to Tamsoult
Table of Contents
Our plan for the day was to get ready for the trek and ascend to the Tizi Mzik Pass, reaching an elevation of 2479m, where we expected to have spectacular views over the Imlil Valley and the Toubkal Summit. Following that, we were to continue our trek towards Tamsoult. This part of the journey included visiting the highest waterfalls in the Atlas Mountains, which are up to 100m high, and passing through lush juniper forests along the way. The day was scheduled to conclude with an overnight stay at the Tamsoult refuge, located at 2550m. It was supposed to be 11 kilometers of walking from Imlil to Tamsoult refuge, involving an 800m ascent and a 400m descent, with a total walking time of 5-6 hours. None of it went to plan. We not only didn’t go to Tizi Mzik Pass, but we also didn’t go to Tamsoult refuge or the Cascades gelées d’IGHOULIDNE waterfall, which was close to the that refuge and we went completely opposite direction. I’ve paid £133 for this! Well I saw other companies from other countries charge £600-800 for this hike, so it was still a good deal, but just not great experience. But lets start from the beginning.
The breakfast was server at 10:15am in Tighoula Restaurant, which is the same building, and it was good, plenty of bread and jams and coffee to go with it, but I was eating in the terrace (as there was nowhere else to eat) and it was -1°C (~ 30°F). I was freezing and I was the only one there.
The view from the balcony next to the terrace where I had breakfast was stunning. I could see the valley in the rising Sun light and the shadow casted from the mountains.
After eating the breakfast I headed to my room and I was sitting in front of the heater to warm up my fingers, which I did for 30 minutes.
Hike to Unknown
A bit after 11:00 am we started the hike and this time with another guide – Hassan. I was the only person (since the girl left yesterday) to go on a hike with the guide, so basically it was a private tour.
We walked through Imlil VIllage and it was interesting to see the houses and some of them demolished after the Earthquake of magnitude 6.8 that struck Imlil on September 8, 2023, but luckily there were no casualties, just some buildings had structural damage and had to be demolished.
I could feel my sore legs from intensive two day Toubkal hike and again we were going up the hill. I was suffering.
The view of the terraces in Tamatert village were impressive and they were very green compared to the surrounding landscape. I wonder if they adopted the knowledge of terraces from Incas or invented themselves?
We stoped in one of those small shops to buy water and some snacks. I didn’t know that it is going to be our lunch.
This didn’t look like juniper forest at all. Maybe those green trees on the left were juniper? I don’t know as no one have told me.
There are 5 water dams in the area and we saw like 4 of them. They are built to control the water flow in heavy rains and also capture the water that can later be used for agriculture etc.
The images below are with my super zoom camera Canon Powershot SX70 HS, but somehow it does lack crispiness, not to mention that maintaining focus on any object is really difficult, especially when zoomed in.
At 11:45 I was at Café Double Vue in Vue Panoramique, next to Tizi n’ Tamatert.
Hassan has brought the tea from the Coffee shop and offered some canned fish with bread that he has bought in the shop on our way up here. That was supposed to be our lunch? I politely refused saying that I am not hungry, but that fish didn’t look appetizing. Also I would have preferred some warm food instead of a canned fish.
It was indeed a beautiful view and I thoguht I will walk behined the Café and see if I can take a better angle photos. Gues what I found there? A pile of bottles and cans. It seems some of the cans were attemted to be burnt, but unsuccessfully. They are fortunate that there is not much of burning material out there, as those broken bottles definitely posing a fire threat. It also seems that all of this was done by locals and not tourists.
Hike Down
The hike down was quite easy as going down is always easier for me. Especially if my knees are not complaining.
My road asked me if we want to walk down the road or the path we came and I said the road as that way we would see slightly different views and it is easier too.
I heard the prayer when at one of those twist while I was taking pictures. I turned to my guide and asked if he needs to pray? He nodded and I just turned away and continued taking pictures of the valley.
Soon after we were at the beginning of Imlil village.
The Guide’s house
My guide on the way down to Imlil offered to drop in to his house for some tea. I wanted to see how locals live and this was a perfect opportunity to do that.
The interior was modest and they had the dedicated room for guests, something like a living room. Just couches to sit on with many pillows and a beautiful carpet. “The walls could use a coat of paint.” I thought to myself. Anyway, the room was functional and full of light and felt cozy and I guess simple people don’t here about looks so much in here as we do in western world. Also, in Islam, there is a strong link between owning fewer possessions and experiencing greater happiness and contentment. This is rooted in the faith’s emphasis on living a life of simplicity, being content with what one has, and actively avoiding excessiveness and waste.
The tea was delicious and Hassan was very fiendly and I had two cups of tea with some nibbles. It was time to head back to the “headquarters”. I said Hi to his mother in law and wife on my way out.
Waiting for a lift back
At 3:00 pm I was back in the room where we arrived (the “headquarters”) on the first day. So the entire hike was around 2 hours long, excluding all the breaks. I gave 20 MAD tip for the guide and he thanked and disapeared.
I was told by another guy, who was working there, that there is a taxi in a few minutes, but if I wait the van will take me back to my Riad. “I am not in a rush.” I thought to myself, so I said “I’ll wait”. While I was waiting I took few pictures of the room as I really like how it was decorated. If you would guess what’s inside when looking from outside – you would never guess. I really liked those ceiling decorations as it looks really luxury in a way.
The van arrived just before 4:00pm and we left to Marrakech soon after. The ride was quite fast and I took a nap in the van.
Hustle of Marrakech
At 5:15 pm I was back to a hustling Marrakech. My driver dropped me and others off close to Jemaa el-Fnaa, the place where they picked us up, but that was the opposite side of Medina from my Riad. I did ask driver if he is going to take me closer to Riad, but he said this was it and ask for a tip. I was furios! I did not give any tip and just grabbed my bags and started walking through entire Medina. It was so much easier to go in the empty market streets. Now I had to go through the crowds of people with my duffel bag on my back and my backpack in front.
Finally, I got to the street where my Riad Eloise was supposed to be, but once again I could not find it and right at that time the kid saw me and started asking where I am going and then he lead me to the Riad and rang the bell. I was literally there! Anyway, I gave him 5 MAD. He did not argue as the other one on the first day. Overall this guide was good as he spoke English and he was friendly and patient, but I believe it wasn’t the hike I paid for.
The Riad Eloise was nice and staff very friendly. I was offered some tea. After that I dropped my bags and went back to the other Riad I was previously staying, which was like 5min away. Picked up my suitcase and as I was walking some guys on the street immediately started following me and asking where I am going. I just ignored them and then they started telling me that I cannot go to the street I was going because it is closed due to mosque. I knew they were lying and I just pointed them out that I already passed this street few minutes ago (surprisingly they were there, so they should remember?).
Basically, I was scammed with this trip. I have paid for totally different experience and a gradual ascent. Instead I got only 6 meals out of 9, an intensive 2 day hike to Toubkal which left my legs shattered (at least I managed it!) and some random few hour walk to a viewpoint. The hike to Tizi Mzik never happened and no waterfall either. Probably it is better to book a separate tour to hike Tizi M’Zik Pass and Tamsoult Waterfall as I’ve seen that waterfall looks impressive (probably mostly in spring though!).
My legs really needed a rest…