Me and my friend arrived to Perugia Airport (San Francesco d’Assisi Airport) just before 11:00 am. The airport is very small and it takes only couple minutes to pass the passport control and customs. Unexpectedly, a custom dog (a very cute German Shepherd) jumped on me while I was passing the customs. At that moment I froze and I thought now I will have to go through thorough check which would be a big waste of time. Luckily, the gard just showed me to go and told “basta” (meaning “stop” in italian) to the dog. So we leave outside looking for a bus. We find a bus stop, but not clear at all, what time is the bus leaving and where to get the tickets. Meanwhile a bus stops and I ask the driver in English if it goes to Perugia, but he replies in italian, which I understand it was a wrong bus and goes to another city – Assisi.
We went back to the airport hoping to buy the tickets at the ticket office counters. To our surprise we find this sign.
So then I go back to the bus driver and he explains that that the ticket needs to be bought on the bus and only by cash – € 5. Luckily we manage to find € 5 each in our wallets as we couldn’t even find an ATM in the airport!
The buses go quite rarely from and to the airport, but it seemed they are synced with the flight times. You can use google maps, which showed pretty accurate time of the buses. However, double check exceptions when the bus actually doesn’t go.
The ride with the bus was only around 30 min, but it had amazing views through the window.
Perugia, located in the central region of Umbria, is one of the oldest cities in Italy with a rich cultural and historical heritage that dates back to the Etruscan civilization. It is situated on a hilltop overlooking the scenic Umbrian countryside and is known for its picturesque landscapes, historic architecture, and cultural festivals.
The earliest known inhabitants of Perugia were the ancient Etruscans who settled in the area around the 6th century BC. The Etruscans were skilled builders and left behind many impressive structures, including the massive walls that still encircle the city and the underground rock-hewn tunnels known as the Etruscan well, which are now a popular tourist attraction.
In the 3rd century BC, Perugia became an important Roman colony known as Perusia. During this time, it flourished as a strategic city along the Roman road network and gained prominence as a center for trade, art, and education. Many impressive Roman structures such as the Arco Etrusco, the Amphitheater, and the Temple of Minerva were built during this period.
The old town of Perugia is up the hill from the central bus station. However, the local government have thought about it and built the escalators to take you all the way up! Just amazing!
While going up the escalators, you will pass some impressive tunnels, which were constructed in the 1540s as part of the Rocca Paolina fortress commissioned by Pope Paolo III Farnese, offer a glimpse into the city’s past and the destruction that accompanied the creation of the stronghold. The fortress, which involved the demolishment of a thriving neighborhood and the recycling of its churches, monasteries, and homes, was widely disliked by the citizens of Perugia. It was only in 1860, with the Unification of Italy, that the fortress was finally destroyed, allowing the city to reclaim its historic streets and structures.
Eventually going through those tunnels and multiple escalators it lead us to Piazza Italia.
Statua di Pietro Vannucci detto “Il Perugino” is located in Carducci Gardens. The statue is dedicated to the renowned Italian painter Pietro Vannucci, also known as Il Perugino, who was born and raised in Perugia. The idea for the statue originated in the late 19th century, with the aim of honoring one of the city’s most famous artists. It was commissioned by the Accademia di Belle Arti, or Academy of Fine Arts, of Perugia and designed by the Italian sculptor Domenico Trentacoste. The monument was officially unveiled in May 1902, in a ceremony attended by many prominent figures in the art world. It depicts Il Perugino in a seated position, holding a paintbrush and palette in one hand and resting his other hand on a book. At the base of the statue, there are four allegorical figures representing Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, and Music. These figures symbolize the different forms of art in which Il Perugino excelled. In 1959, the statue underwent some restoration work due to damages caused by pollution and weathering. And in the following decades, it has been periodically cleaned and maintained to preserve its original beauty.
Prefecture Perugia building’s construction dates back to the mid-19th century, during the Italian unification period. It was originally built to serve as the headquarters of the Papal States’ government in the region. However, following the unification of Italy, the building was eventually repurposed as the Prefecture of Perugia. Architect Giuseppe Marchetti designed the neoclassical-style building, which features a large central dome and grand entrances. The building’s façade is adorned with beautiful marble statues and intricate reliefs. Throughout the years, Prefecture Perugia has undergone several renovations and restorations to maintain its architectural integrity. During World War II, the building was heavily damaged but was later restored to its former glory. Today, Prefecture Perugia continues to serve as the headquarters for the administrative and government offices of Perugia.
The Statue of Vittorio Emanuele II was designed by Italian sculptor Costantino Barbella and was inaugurated on September 16, 1894, to honor the 50th anniversary of the unification of Italy. Vittorio Emanuele II, also known as “the father of the fatherland”, was the first king of a united Italy and played a crucial role in the country’s unification. The monument is made of white Carrara marble and features a larger-than-life statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, standing on a pedestal decorated with allegorical figures and historical scenes. The king is depicted wearing a military uniform, with one hand raised in a gesture of blessing and the other holding a sword. At the base of the pedestal, there are two bronze statues representing the Allegories of Freedom and Unity, symbolizing the two main ideals of the Italian unification movement. On either side of the monument, there are two fountains adorned with lion heads spouting water.
I was struggling to take a nice shot of this sculpture as the reconstruction works are going on around it everywhere.
The construction of Palazzo Cesaroni began in the early 16th century. The initial design of the building was created by architect Ambrogio Traversari. The palace was commissioned by the powerful Rossi family, who wanted a grand residence to showcase their wealth and influence. Construction was interrupted multiple times due to budget constraints and conflicts within the Rossi family. In 1637, the building was sold to the Cesaroni family, who completed the construction and gave the palace its current name. The palace reflects the elegant Renaissance architectural style, with its grand facade and elaborate interior decorations. Throughout the centuries, the palace has been used for various purposes, including as a private residence, a government building, and a cultural center. In 1973, Palazzo Cesaroni was declared a national monument of Italy and now serves as regional government office.
The “Palazzo Donini” was originally built in the 17th century as a monastery for the Augustinian order of nuns. In the 19th century, it was bought by the Donini family who transformed it into a private residence. During World War II, the building served as a military hospital. In the 1960s, it was purchased by the city of Perugia and turned into a luxury hotel and conference center. Today, “Palazzo Donini” boasts 78 elegant rooms and suites, as well as numerous meeting rooms and event spaces and used as regional government office.
While walking down Corso Pietro Vanucci we stumbled into small but charming Christmas market, where you can buy from local chocolate to some fabrics and other hand crafted souvenirs.
We stopped for a quick lunch at Il Bistro and I must say the service and the food was really good.
I’ve ordered octopus with caramelized onions, straciotella and some nuts. The mix of flavours was astonishing. Never have tased octopus this good.
Also the risotto with broccoli and shrimps was delicious too, though it had a strange green colour from brocoli.
After quick lunch we headed to our Hotel Fortuna to check-in. Passing some narrow, charming streets.
The Hotel Fortuna was comfortable and very quiet. However, breakfast options were very poor if that is important for you (especially in Italy!). Overall it had good views and very close to town center and the room was comfortable enough.
After dropping our bags, we went to explore further the old town of Perugia.
We stopped at Torre dei Donati, but we didn’t attempt to inside, but you can try. It is a medieval tower, which dates back to the thirteenth century and stands at a height of 14 meters.
The tower is one of the few remaining towers in Perugia and is an important symbol of the city’s medieval past. The tower was originally built by the powerful Donati family, a noble family from Perugia. They were one of the most influential families in the city, involved in politics, commerce, and banking.
The tower served as both a residence and a defensive structure for the family. In the fourteenth century, the tower came under the ownership of the powerful Oddi family, who made significant modifications to it. They added an elegant loggia with Gothic arches and decorative terracotta details. This gives the tower its distinctive appearance that can still be seen today.
Throughout the centuries, the Torre dei Donati has witnessed many important events in Perugia’s history. In 1363, it was used as a prison during a political uprising, and in 1539, it housed Macchiavelli’s troops during a siege of the city. During World War II, the tower served as a shelter for local residents during air raids. After the war, it underwent extensive restoration work to preserve its historic architecture.
We made a short stop at National Gallery of Umbria housed in the 16th-century Palazzo dei Priori, a magnificent building that boasts a grandiose entrance adorned with two striking statues of Griffin and Lion.
The Griffin of Perugia In front of the Lion of San Luca stands its mythical counterpart, a sleek and ferocious griffin carved in white marble. This is known as The Griffin of Perugia or Il Grifone di Perugia in Italian. The origins and purpose of this statue are shrouded in mystery. Some believe it was carved by Corsini Mezzone in the late 16th century, while others credit unknown medieval artists with its creation. What is certain is that this griffin is a significant symbol in Perugian history and has been used on the city’s coat of arms since the 13th century. As with the Lion of San Luca, the Griffin was also moved to its current location outside the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria during the Napoleonic Wars.
The Lion of San Luca – the second statue that catches the eye upon entering the gallery is the imposing figure of a roaring lion, perched on top of a tall granite column. This is known as the Lion of San Luca or Il Leone di San Luca in Italian. Carved out of red marble in the early 1500s by sculptor Giovanni Bandini, the lion was originally located outside the Church of San Luca in Florence, where it stood as part of the fountain in the Piazza San Luca. It is believed that this statue was meant to symbolize the power and authority of Florentine rule over Perugia. During the Napoleonic Wars in the early 1800s, the statue was captured by French troops and eventually brought to Perugia as a war trophy. It was placed at the entrance of the Palazzo dei Priori and became a symbol of Perugia’s defiance against its former rulers.
While passing Piazza IV November we stopped to adore Fontana Maggiore. The Fontana Maggiore is a medieval fountain built between 1275 and 1278 by the sculptors Nicola and Giovanni Pisano.
During this time period, Perugia was experiencing a period of growth and prosperity due to its strategic location on the trade route between Rome and Florence. As a symbol of this prosperity, the city commissioned the construction of a grand fountain in the main square.
The design of the Fontana Maggiore was influenced by the Florentine Romanesque style, with three tiers of basins supported by intricately decorated arches. The fountain also features a large central column adorned with sculptures of animals, mythical creatures, and biblical figures.
The lower basin depicts scenes from Roman history and mythology, while the middle basin celebrates the arts and sciences. The upper basin is dedicated to civic virtues and features statues of prominent historical figures such as Julius Caesar, Petrarch, and Dante.
Over the years, the Fontana Maggiore has been damaged by numerous earthquakes and wars. In the early 20th century, it underwent a series of restorations to preserve its integrity.
It seemed that people are enjoying sitting on the stayrs of Cathedral. Some were adoring views, some eating a slice of pizza.
The Cathedral of Perugia is dedicated to Saint Lawrence and Saint Ercolano, the patron saints of the city. The origins of the cathedral date back to the 10th century, when a small church dedicated to Saint Laurence was built on the site. Over the centuries, it was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt due to various invasions and earthquakes. In the 14th century, a decision was made to construct a larger and more impressive church.
Construction on the current cathedral began in 1345 under the direction of Giovanni di Ventura, and it was completed in 1490. The church was designed in the Gothic style with a basilica plan, with a central nave and two side aisles. The façade features a beautiful rose window and a large staircase leading up to the entrance.
The interior of the cathedral is filled with stunning artworks and decorations. The most notable being the frescoes by Italian Renaissance painter Pietro Perugino, who is also believed to have worked on the design of the choir area. These frescoes depict scenes from the life of Christ and were completed around 1500.
In addition to Perugino’s frescoes, there are also several other important works of art within the cathedral. These include a 13th-century wooden crucifix known as the “Marzabotto Cross” and a beautiful marble pulpit dating back to the 14th century.
One of the most unique and intriguing features of Perugia Cathedral is its underground crypt. This underground chamber is home to an impressive collection of relics, including those of Saints Lawrence and Ercolano, as well as many other saintly figures. In 1922, Pope Pius IX elevated the cathedral to the rank of minor basilica, recognizing its importance and significance in Catholicism.
These metal hearts on display are called as Ex Votos. They are votive offerings that are made by believers as an expression of gratitude or devotion to a saint or deity for a perceived help or miracle. These metal hearts, also known as “Sacred Hearts” or “Hearts of Promise,” are typically made of silver or other precious metals and are often inscribed with prayers, names, and dates. They are then hung or displayed in religious buildings as a physical representation of the giver’s faith and greatfulness.
After sunset Perugia looked completely different. The churches and other monuments lit by the lamp light and the views of the night city were mesmarizing.
The Etruscan Arch is one of the few remaining monuments in Perugia, Italy that dates back to the ancient Etruscan civilization. The arch is believed to have been built sometime between the 3rd and 2nd century BC.
The Etruscan people were an ancient civilization that inhabited central Italy from the 8th to 3rd century BC. They were skilled builders and craftsmen, known for their impressive and sophisticated architecture. It is believed that the Etruscan Arch was part of a larger gateway that led into the city of Perugia. The arch is made of large blocks of stone that were carved and fit together without the use of mortar. This technique, known as opus isodomum, was typical of Etruscan building methods. Many of the stones used in the construction of the arch are intricately decorated with reliefs and carvings, showcasing the skill and artistry of the Etruscans.
The Arch served as a monumental entrance to the city of Perugia. It is believed that it was once part of a larger complex that also included walls, towers, and other gateways. The arch was likely used for both ritual and practical purposes, marking the boundary between sacred and secular areas of the city.
This Arch is one of the oldest structures in Perugia and serves as a testament to the advanced engineering and artistic abilities of the Etruscans. It is also one of the few remaining examples of Etruscan architecture in central Italy. Over time, the arch had suffered damage from earthquakes, erosion, and human activities. In 1900, a restoration project was undertaken by Italian architect Cesare Bazzani in an effort to preserve this important historical monument. During World War II, part of the arch was heavily damaged by bombing, but it was reconstructed shortly after the war ended.
The construction of the aqueduct began in the 13th century, during the rule of Pope Innocent IV. Perugia, like many other Italian cities, faced challenges in providing its citizens with a reliable water supply. The previous aqueduct, built by the Etruscans around 300 BC, had fallen into disrepair and was no longer able to meet the growing demands of the population.
Under the direction of engineer Fra Bevignate da Perugia, a new aqueduct was designed and built to bring water from Mount Pacciano to the city center. The aqueduct stretched for over 2 kilometers and was supported by 36 arches, with some reaching heights of over 20 meters.
Construction on the aqueduct continued over the span of several decades, with different popes and rulers overseeing its completion. However, it wasn’t until the 14th century that the aqueduct was fully operational and delivering a reliable source of water to the city.
The use of this aqueduct had a significant impact on the city’s development and economy. With a steady source of water, Perugia was able to expand its textile industry and attract more settlers. The aqueduct also provided a means for agricultural irrigation, leading to an increase in food production and trade.
In the years that followed, there were multiple renovations and repairs made to the aqueduct due to damages caused by wars and natural disasters. However, it remained in use until the late 19th century when it was no longer able to keep up with the city’s growing water needs.
You can literally walk on it, as you pass by while taking stairs. A great view from above.
To summarize the experience, this town is a hidden gem of Italy and Umbria region. Very low numbers of tourists in the beginning of December, amazing cuisine and astonishing architecture makes Perugia a must visit destination. It was a bit windy, but other than that, I would definitely recommend visiting.
Tips
- Book your restaurants for dinner in advance, especially on weekends as you won’t get the spot otherwise.
- Eating lunch might be tricky, but there are some bistro’s open. Google maps are not accurate and even it displays it is open, the restaurant might be closed.
- You can pay almost everywhere by card (even in the market), but do have some cash for the bus.
- No uber or other online taxis available.
- You must try local chocolate, especially the one with Truffle!