After spending couple nights in Rovinj, we were heading to our next apartment in Pula. Pula is famous for its Roman Amphitheatre (Arena). We booked a Penthouse Castropola apartment hoping an amazing view to the Amphitheatre.
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Checking-in to the Appartment
We agreed the time when we are meeting our host and he was there in time. The flat looked clean and quite nice and modern. However, the promised Pula Arena was nowhere to be seen through the windows.
We’ve paid €237.76 (including €7.2 city tax for all) for two nights and the guy only accepted cash payment. The parking was additional €40, which was his personal spot for which he was charing that money. It did feel a bit excessive, but I guess that’s ho they do business in Balkans. Either it was parking really far and walking (though parking in the city was around €13 – 20 per day anyway) or paying for parking. Of course, he gave us the receipt for all the money we’ve paid. So the total was € 277.78.
About the City of Pula
he coastal city of Pula, located at the southern tip of Croatia’s Istria peninsula, boasts a rich history spanning over 3,000 years. Its strategic deep-water harbour has made it a prized possession for numerous empires throughout the centuries.
Ancient Origins and the Roman Golden Age
The city began as a hill fort settlement built by the Histri, an ancient Illyrian tribe. However, its true transformation occurred in the 1st century BC when the Romans conquered the region and established a colony named Pietas Iulia.
During this Roman era, Pula flourished as a vital administrative and commercial port. The Romans constructed grand architectural masterpieces that still dominate the city today, most notably the Pula Arena, which is one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres in the world. Furthermore, they built the Temple of Augustus and the triumphal Arch of the Sergii, turning the city into a monumental urban centre.
Byzantine Rule and Venetian Rivalry
Following the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Pula fell under the control of the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century. The city became a major naval base, and the stunning Church of St. Mary Formosa was constructed during this prosperous period.
By the late Middle Ages, the city found itself caught in the geopolitical crossfire between local noble families and the rising power of Venice. In 1331, Venice officially took control of Pula, a rule that would last for nearly five centuries. Nevertheless, this era was marked by severe decline because frequent plagues and malaria outbreaks decimated the local population, reducing the once-grand city to a small town of just a few hundred people.
The Austro-Hungarian Revival to Modern Day
The collapse of the Venetian Republic in 1797 eventually brought Pula under the rule of the Austrian Empire. In 1853, Emperor Franz Joseph I designated Pula as the main naval base for the Austro-Hungarian Navy, which triggered a massive industrial boom. The population exploded as shipyards, docks, and military fortifications were constructed. Consequently, Pula transformed into a bustling, multicultural city.
Annexations of Pula
The 20th century brought exceptionally rapid political shifts that completely redefined the identity of the city. Following the World War I, Pula was annexed by Italy, which introduced a challenging period of forced Italianisation for the local inhabitants. This rule was overturned after the World War II when the city became part of Yugoslavia, an event that triggered a large migration of the ethnic Italian population while simultaneously sparking a major rebuilding of the industrial shipyards. Finally, the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991 allowed Pula to transition smoothly into a prominent cultural and tourism hub within independent Croatia, beautifully blending its industrial past with modern European travel. Today, Pula is 7th biggest city in Croatia with a population of 52,411 people.
On My Way to Pula Down Town
We we headed to downtown area of Pula, which involved literally going down to town – navigating a series of narrow, charming streets going downwards, which notably included a lot of steep stone stairs that wound through the city’s historic heart. These steep, atmospheric lanes were lined with traditional buildings and stone walls, creating a sense of timelessness as I descended towards the vibrant city life below. Furthermore, the path offered me glimpses of the city’s unique blend of architecture and greenery, providing a scenic introduction to Pula before I began the actual exploration of its many historical sites.
While we were heading down to the old town of Pula, I accidentally saw an impressive Gate of Hercules, a structure that immediately caught my attention. This ancient gateway served as the oldest preserved town gate in the city, dating back to the first century BC. The gate holds significant historical importance as it marks the beginning of the Roman colonisation of the area. Notably, the arch is named for the faint relief carving of Hercules’ head, which was the patron deity of the ancient city. I couldn’t see the relief thought as it is very worn out by time.
Pula’s Forum Square
We walked into Pula’s Forum Square and I felt the history all around me, as people have gathered in this lively spot since ancient times. I loved seeing how the old world meets the new, watching locals drink coffee at outdoor cafés right next to monumental buildings that are thousands of years old. My eyes went straight to the Temple of Augustus, and I was amazed by its elegant stone columns built for the very first Roman emperor. It felt incredible to walk across the same stones where Roman citizens once stood, knowing I was part of a long tradition of community. Therefore, hanging out in this historic square was one of my favourite moments in Pula, showing me how beautifully the city looks after its past.
Temple of Augustus in Pula
I approached closer the Temple of Augustus and felt completely amazed by how perfectly it has survived right in the middle of Pula’s main square. I stood for a long time just looking at its elegant Corinthian columns, marvelling at the fact that Roman workers built them two thousand years ago to honour their very first emperor and also dedicated it goddess Roma. This impressive temple was built between 2 BC and AD 14. I did notice how the ancient, weathered stone creates a beautiful contrast with the lively modern cafés and shops surrounding it. It was incredible to step closer and realise that this building has been used as a pagan temple, a Christian church, and even a grain silo over the centuries.
I waited until everyone inside of the temple left and only then stepped inside into Temple of Augustus. Before entering, I noticed couple fascinating Roman artefacts displayed within the site. Specifically, a fragment of a relief sculpture depicting two figures in tunics, one of whom was missing its head, alongside an ancient funerary altar engraved with a detailed Latin inscription. These remnants served as powerful reminders of the Roman presence in Pula,
As I walked inside of Temple of Augustus, I stumbled upon a plaque detailing a fountain panel featuring the head of Medusa, dating from between the second half of the 2nd and the 3rd century. Suddenly, I made the mistake of looking a bit too closely at the carvings. I felt my body almost frozen solid into a statue—a classic case of Medusa’s gaze catching me completely off guard. Jokes aside, it did look very impressive and probably one of the most detailed carvings, not as a statue, of Medusa that I have seen in my life.
It felt quiet and peaceful inside. I looked around the intimate, high-ceilinged interior, noticing how the cool stone walls seemed to echo with two thousand years of history. I thoroughly looked at a fascinating display of ancient Roman stone sculptures and portrait busts arranged neatly within the room. It was incredible to stand completely alone in that sacred space, imagining the generations of people who had sought shelter or inspiration within those very walls since antiquity. Therefore, taking that quiet moment to explore the empty temple became an deeply peaceful experience, allowing me to connect with Pula’s ancient past in a truly personal way.
Then I’ve noticed a keystone of an arch featuring the head of Achelous is a limestone artefact from Pula, dating back to the third century. This piece once served a structural purpose in a Roman arch, displaying the likeness of a significant mythological figure and at first I thought it was a Minotaur.
In Greek mythology, Achelous was a powerful deity who served as the god of all water, specifically presiding over the Achelous River, which is the largest river in Greece. He was widely recognised as the son of titans’ Oceanus and Tethys. Furthermore, he possessed the ability to shapeshift, often appearing as a bull, a serpent, or a man with a bull’s head.
The last thing I’ve noticed in the Temple of Augustus, was a beautifully preserved sepulchral stele dedicated to Quintus Labienus Mollio and his wife, Aquilia Tertia. This limestone monument, which dates to the 2nd quarter of the 1st century AD, depicts the couple in a detailed relief carving. In addition to the portraits, the stone features an inscription explaining that the monument was created according to the wishes left in the will of Quintus Labienus Mollio. It was fascinating to learn that this specific piece was originally discovered in Gologorica, near Pazin, before making its way to the collection in Pula.
Pula Citadel
I tried to enter the Pula Citadel, but the gates were locked when I arrived. It does say that they close at 5:00pm before 1st of May, but this was 5th of May, so it should have been open until 9:00 pm. It is possible that I simply picked the wrong entrance; however, the closed doors meant I had to take photos from the outside instead. This star-shaped fortress was built by the Venetians in the 17th century to defend the harbour, and they even used stones from an ancient Roman theatre to construct it. The site itself sits on the highest hill in the city, which is the same spot where the Histri tribe originally built their hilltop settlement centuries before the Romans arrived. Furthermore, the fortress was designed by the French military engineer Antoine de Ville to protect the city against naval attacks during the Uskok War. Since I could not explore inside the walls, I walked around the area instead, where I enjoyed the beautiful, high-up views of the city.
We could see the walls of the Pula Citadel along with all the fortifications, and we even spotted many cannons. Nevertheless, getting inside proved nearly impossible, as we would have had to climb those steep, high walls. Still, it was impressive to see at least that much of the Pula Citadel fortress.
Pula Arena – Roman amphitheatre in Pula
The Pula Arena stands as one of the most magnificent and remarkably intact Roman monuments in existence today, dominating the coastal landscape of Istria. Constructed during 1st century AD under the Flavian dynasty, this grand structure was built concurrently with the famous Colosseum in Rome. It is the only remaining Roman amphitheatre in the world to have all four side towers and its entire three-tiered outer limestone wall completely preserved. Consequently, walking along its perimeter allows visitors to appreciate the exact architectural scale that ancient spectators experienced nearly two thousand years ago.
The arena was originally engineered to host brutal gladiatorial combats and wild animal hunts, accommodating over twenty thousand eager spectators within its limestone tiers. Underground passages, which once held the caged beasts and captured fighters waiting for their fateful entry, still run beneath the main stone presentation floor. Today, those subterranean chambers house a fascinating permanent exhibition dedicated to ancient Istrian olive oil and wine production. Furthermore, the acoustic quality of the elliptical bowl remains as brilliant as it was in antiquity, allowing the historic venue to successfully transition from an arena of combat to a celebrated cultural hub.
The ancient stone walls currently serve as a breathtaking open-air stage for world-class entertainment, hosting the prestigious Pula Film Festival alongside massive international music concerts each summer. Visitors are able to sit on the ancient stone tiers under the stars, experiencing modern performances wrapped in the dramatic ambiance of classical Roman history. Therefore, the amphitheatre remains the proud beating heart of Pula’s civic identity, bridging the distant ancient past with the vibrant cultural life of modern Croatia.
Walking directly into the centre of the Pula Arena felt like stepping back through the centuries into a lost world. It was absolutely fascinating to stand where ancient spectators once gathered, looking up at those massive, weathered stone walls that seemed to touch the sky. As the sunset slowly approached, the late afternoon light began to shift, casting long, dramatic shadows across the dusty ground and highlighting every rugged detail of the limestone architecture. The play of light and dark created a hauntingly beautiful atmosphere, and the immense scale of the structure became even more apparent as the golden hour bathed the entire amphitheatre in a warm, glowing hue.
I can only imagine how truly impressive the arena must have looked during ancient times, when the space was alive with the intensity of gladiatorial combat. It is fascinating to reflect on the architectural grandeur and the raw energy that would have filled the air as those legendary battles unfolded before crowds of spectators cheering them.
The remains of the Pula Arena prominently feature an outer wall that still displays two complete levels of arches alongside a third level containing rectangular windows. Inside the amphitheatre, several stone seating sections have survived the centuries, offering a clear view of the scale once enjoyed by thousands of ancient spectators. Furthermore, the site is adorned with various historical elements, including stone carvings and lion statues that reflect the influence of later Venetian governance over the region. These architectural layers, from the original Roman masonry to the later additions, provide a tangible timeline of the city’s long and complex history.
Underground of Pula Arena
I descended into the underground of the Pula Arena, exploring a fascinating subterranean network that once formed the functional backbone of the entire amphitheatre. These limestone chambers and tunnels, located directly beneath the main fighting grounds, were originally designed to house gladiators, caged wild animals, and complex mechanical lifts used to hoist performers into the stadium above. This hidden world effectively kept the gritty, logistical preparations of the games entirely out of sight from the thousands of spectators cheering in the stands.
I discovered that these historic tunnels currently serve a far more peaceful purpose, housing a captivating permanent exhibition entitled “Istrian Olive Oil and Viticulture in Antiquity“. I wandered through the cool, vaulted corridors to view an extensive collection of authentic Roman amphorae (like really a lot of them!), which are the distinct clay storage jars used to transport Istrian goods across the Roman Empire. The exhibition also featured meticulously reconstructed wooden presses, stone mills, and sedimentation tanks, beautifully illustrating how the region became world-renowned for its high-quality oil and wine production during Roman times.
Amphorae were two-handled ceramic vessels extensively utilised throughout the ancient Greek and Roman worlds for the bulk storage, measurement, and transport of commodities like olive oil, wine, and cereals. In the Istrian region, large pottery workshops located on grand coastal estates in Fažana and Loron specialised in manufacturing these vessels—most notably the Dressel 6 B type for olive oil—under the ownership of wealthy senatorial families and, subsequently, Roman emperors during the Flavian dynasty. Furthermore, these workshops frequently marked their products with distinct identification stamps naming the prominent estate owners, imperial rulers, or workshop managers. Although Istrian production and oil exportation continued into the third and fourth centuries, it did so on a considerably reduced scale and without workshop stamps on the amphorae. Nevertheless, the archaeological discovery of these stamped or painted vessels provides modern historians with an invaluable source of economic data regarding Roman trade networks and regional asset management.
Exploring this lower level offered me a stark, atmospheric contrast to the sun-drenched stone tiers above. The subterranean space allowed me to walk the very paths trodden by fighters preparing for combat, while simultaneously offering a deep dive into the daily economic life of Roman Istria. Therefore, the underground remained an essential part of my arena experience, seamlessly blending the dramatic history of the games with the ancient agricultural heritage of the region.
Interesting Facts about Pula Arena
- The Older Sibling: This magnificent structure is actually older than the world-famous Colosseum in Rome, with construction initially commencing under Emperor Augustus between 27 BC and 14 AD using timber before being rebuilt in stone.
- The Scented Sunscreen: Each of the four unique side towers once contained two special cisterns filled with beautifully perfumed water, which was regularly sprinkled onto the spectators to keep them wonderfully cool and refreshed under the intense Mediterranean sun.
- The Fairy Tale Origins: An ancient local legend attributes the creation of the monument to mythical night fairies who reportedly carried heavy stones down from the mountains, yet they were forced to abandon their work when a rooster crowed at dawn, leaving the arena without a roof.
- The Great Venetian Rescue: The Venetian Senate proposed a radical plan in 1583 to completely dismantle the amphitheatre and rebuild it within Venice, but the idea was successfully blocked by a passionate senator whose act of defiance is still commemorated with a headstone on the second tower today.
- The Modern Ice Rink: The historic venue made sporting history in September 2012 by being completely transformed into an artificial ice rink, hosting two highly unique professional outdoor ice hockey games for the Austrian Hockey League.
Arch of the Sergii in Pula
The Arch of the Sergii is a stunning Roman triumphal arch located in the heart of Pula. It was constructed during the 1st century BC to honour three members of the powerful Sergii family who held significant positions in the city’s administration.
The arch is highly regarded for its intricate Hellenistic-influenced relief carvings and Corinthian columns, which showcase the artistic sophistication of the Roman period. Furthermore, it originally served as a gate into the city, marking the transition from the bustling streets into the Roman settlement. I found it incredibly moving to stand before such a well-preserved monument, as it serves as a powerful testament to Pula’s ancient legacy and its enduring connection to the Roman Empire.
Dinner at Pizzeria Jupiter
It was getting late and by the time we showered and got ready to go for dinner it was already 10 pm. We ventured looking for a restaurant to eat and it seemed many places already closed the kitchen. Then luckily we found a Pizzeria Jupiter. It was really delicious pizza with truffle and fried calamari. Two dishes you ask? Yes I took two, just because I was very hungry and I really wanted to try them both and it all was very delicous!
The total bill was € 54.8 for three people and four mains.
Pula at Night
After dinner we wandered through Pula at night, looking at the Forum Square and the Pula Arena, and it really does look very different after dark. I watched the ancient stones glow under the soft streetlights, creating a completely different atmosphere compared to the bustling daytime. I marvelled at how the illuminated arches of the amphitheatre stood out against the dark sky, looking incredibly dramatic and peaceful all at once. It felt like a completely new experience to stroll past these familiar monuments without the heavy tourist crowds. Therefore, exploring the city under the stars became one of my absolute favourite memories, showing me a much quieter, more magical side of Pula’s history.
When we got home we could finally enjoy our “premium” view of night Pula with that illegally parked car in front of the stairs.
Stomach Bug and the Bathroom Accident
The following section contains some rather graphic details, so please feel free to skip this part if you are particularly sensitive or currently eating. The afternoon after our arrival, we visited a grill restaurant located slightly outside the centre of Pula. Hopefully, that establishment has since closed its doors. We ordered a variety of grilled meats, some soup, and a few beers to share. The place looked nice and the table outside made the experience great, since it was a sunny day. On top of that, the owner was super friedly. After eating, we paid and left by car to our appartment.
Throughout the evening, my stomach felt uncomfortably full, and I found myself burping quite frequently; by 11 pm, I began to feel significantly unwell. While I attempted to run towards the bathroom, I unfortunately could not prevent myself from shooting a proejctile of vomit on the floor. That night, the toilet became my only companion, and I spent the hours hugging it while being sick multiple times, trying to wash my stomach out with lots of water. It was not until around 3 am that I finally managed to drift off to sleep in my bed. Although I woke up feeling slightly improved, I was certainly not back to normal.
Since we were due to depart in a couple of hours, I headed to the bathroom with the intent to take a shower. I undressed and stepped into the cubicle, which was separated from the toilet by a glass partition. The moment the warm water hit my body, I involuntarily began to violently vomiting while simultaneously experiencing a sudden, major accident from my other end and with a big force. While I did feel a sense of relief afterwards, cleaning the shower certainly took a considerable amount of time. Nevertheless, at least the entire incident was contained within the shower area. It did look like a scene from a horror movie!
In the end, I was the only person to fall ill during the trip, although another friend suffered from the same thing, albeit slightly worse, as he experienced severe stomach issues. Meanwhile, the third member of our group remained completely unaffected.
Best Beaches in Pula
Hawaii Beach (Verudela)
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
Frequently cited as the most beautiful beach in Pula, this picturesque pebble bay (not Hawaii sand though) is perfect for families thanks to its shallow, calm waters. It is also a popular spot for thrill-seekers, as locals often use the surrounding high rocks for cliff jumping.
Ambrela Beach (Verudela)
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
An ideal family-friendly hub, this Blue Flag beach features gentle entries, shallow turquoise waters, and full amenities like showers, cafes, and sunbed rentals.
Galebove Stijene (Seagull Rocks)
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
A rugged, “wild” adventure destination famous for its natural sea caves, passages, and prime cliff-jumping spots. It is best suited for confident swimmers as it lacks traditional tourist facilities.
Gortanova Uvala (Gortan Cove)
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
This beautiful, picturesque pebble cove is framed by pine trees, offering natural shade and crystal-clear waters that make it a favourite for snorkelling and swimming.
Pješčana Uvala
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
One of the few sandy beaches in the region, it is highly family-oriented, offering calm waters, a water playground for children, and easy access to local amenities.
Valkane Beach
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Highly regarded for its accessibility, this beach sits on the Lungomare promenade and features ramps, sports facilities, and nearby restaurants, making it a convenient choice for families and those seeking comfort.
Cyclone Beach
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
A serene, untamed bay near Verudela that offers a quiet atmosphere highly valued by snorkelers and those looking to explore rich marine life away from the crowds.
Don’t Miss Out These Places in Pula
💎 Pula Arena: The historic structure is a remarkably well-preserved 1st century Roman amphitheatre that once hosted intense gladiator battles and currently serves as a spectacular open-air venue for concerts and film festivals.
💎 Forum Square: The bustling open space acts as the lively heart of public life in the city, surrounded by traditional cafés and monumental civic buildings where people have gathered since antiquity.
💎 Temple of Augustus: The ancient landmark stands proudly on the main square, showcasing exceptionally elegant Corinthian columns constructed in honour of the very first Roman emperor.
💎 Arch of the Sergii: The beautifully carved monument is a striking ancient triumphal arch built in the late 1st century BC to commemorate a powerful local family, acting today as a grand gateway into the vibrant old town.
💎 Pula Citadel: The elevated military site sits majestically on a central hill where this 17th century Venetian fortress offers commanding panoramic views over the historic red roofs and the sparkling Adriatic Sea.
💎 Zerostrasse: The historic passages provide a fascinating subterranean experience through a labyrinth of cooling underground tunnels constructed as bomb shelters during the World War I.
💎 Monastery and Church of St. Francis: The religious site offers a serene escape from the busy streets, featuring a peaceful 14th century Romanesque church complete with a beautiful, shaded Gothic cloister.
💎 Dinosaur footprints – You can see over 200 ancient dinosaur footprints scattered across the Brijuni National Park.
Below are some sponsored links from GetYourGuide to help you find an interesting activity in Pula: