After seeing Zadar, we were on our way to Rijeka. Rijeka is well known in Croatia for its diverse culture, for its port, for hosting many festivals and events throughout the year, and for its beautiful coastline. It is also the third largest city in Croatia, and its beaches are some of the most beautiful in Eastern Europe, which we completely missed out!
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On the Way to Rijeka
We stopped for lunch at Buffet Bragoc. The restaurant had a very good rating and it was really easy to park next to it. We’ve ordered loads of seafood with drinks and total bill for 3 people was € 80 and all of it was delicious!
The drive all the way to Rijeka was accompanied by an intensely cloudy sky that cast a moody, dramatic atmosphere over the vast expanse of the sea. As the winding coastal road curved around the lush green hillsides, low-lying fog could be seen gently rolling across the landscape and spilling down towards the water. Subsequently, the sweeping views opened up to reveal the stark, rocky terrain of Krk Island stretching across the horizon. Furthermore, the iconic concrete arches of the Krk Bridge became clearly visible in the distance, bridging the gap between the mainland and the island beneath a heavy blanket of grey clouds.
The Krk Bridge is a remarkable feat of engineering that has profoundly transformed the region since its official opening on 19 July 1980. Constructed out of reinforced concrete over a four-year period, the structure has an impressive total length of 1,430 metres and rises roughly 67 metres above the sea surface. Structurally, it consists of two giant arches that use the small islet of Sveti Marko as a central, natural stepping stone between the mainland and Krk Island. Upon its completion, the larger of the two arches boasted a monumental span of 390 metres, which famously earned it the world record for the longest concrete arch span at the time. This engineering marvel held onto its global crown for fifteen years until it was finally surpassed in the mid-1990s.
The bridge functions as a vital infrastructural lifeline, carrying over a million vehicles annually alongside key water and oil pipelines. Historically, it was named “Tito’s Bridge” (Titov most) in honour of the former Yugoslav president, Josip Broz Tito, who passed away just two months before its inauguration. Travellers used to pay a toll fee to cross the water until June 2020, when the charges were permanently abolished to boost tourism and ease local access. However, the bridge is regularly forced to battle the elements, as it is highly exposed to the ferocious northern Bora winds. These gusts can occasionally surpass speeds of 220 km/h, which triggers the automated traffic lights to turn red and temporarily close the crossing to ensure vehicular safety.
Arrival to Rijeka
We successfully arrived at our apartment, which we booked via Airbnb and it was called Apartment Mia. It had amazing view from the balcony! The guy met as on the street to let us into the parking, but basically we can only leave and if we come back we will have to pay for the parking. It was somewaht an odd arangement.
Dinner at Bistro Mornar
It was already 7:00pm when we entered the appartment, so after a quick shower and changing clothes we headed for dinner. Since we didn’t want to go far we chose nearby restaurant called Bistro Mornar. The rating was very good, but the actual service not so goo afterall.
We had to wait really long time to take the order in the first place (like 20-30min) and then they had to come back just to say that they didn’t have some dish after like 30 min after that. Furthermore, in total we’ve waited for our mines like 1h 30 min. It’s much longer than I normally I would expect to wait for food in a restaurant. Actually, we were about to give up – just to pay the bill and go. Luckily the food arrived, which was OK, but definitely not worth the wait. After we asked for the bill we had to wait another 20 – 30min to get it. Titak bill was € 79 for 3 people, which is not too bad, given we ate seafood and steak.
Exploring Rijeka
Next day was much better! The Sun was out and it was completely different view from the balcony!
Rijeka is a city located in Primorje-Gorski Kotar County, in western Croatia. It stands on Rječina River, at the Bay of Kvarner on the northern Adriatic Sea. The city is the administrative center of Primorje-Gorski Kotar County and its population was estimated to be 128,624 in 2019.
Rijeka has a long and turbulent history, as it was often at the center of various empires trying to gain control of the region. Archaeological remains from the prehistoric period indicate that the area had been inhabited since the Bronze Age. The first written records about the city date back to 1288 when it was part of Venetian Republic. Rijeka went on to fall under the rule of various empires such as the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Italy after the First World War, until it eventually came under Croatian control in 1991.
During the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Rijeka became a major port and industrial city, which helped contribute to its growth and prosperity. In 2018 the city was the third largest city in Croatia by population and its population continues to increase today.
Rijeka is now an important economic (one of the most important sea ports) and cultural hub, as well as a popular tourist destination. It is home to several cultural institutions, such as the National Theatre and the Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka, as well as to several universities and research institutions. Population of Rijeka is 108,622 people (3rd in the country).
City Tower serves as a symbol for the city. It was built in the Middle Ages and has since been remodeled multiple times over the centuries. There is an imperial coat of arms carved into the stone and a city clock was added to its superstructure in the 17th century. The tower is located in Korzo and was once access point for the fortified town. There is a relief of Austrian emperors Leopold and Charles VI on the tower that is a tribute to the maritime orientation they brought to Austrian court policies. On the lower part of the tower there are some Baroque decorations, including a richly decorated portal. There is also a replica of a Rijeka double-headed eagle on the top of the tower which was sculpted in 2017 by Hrvoje Uremović and is modelled on the original 1906 sculpture. Early classical palaces were built around the tower as annexes by the end of the 18th century following the demolition of the city walls. In the passage by the tower in the Old Town there are memorial inscriptions and a master-stonemason’s signature is also preserved.
To commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Rijeka Paper Factory, one of the oldest factories in Europe, architect Igor Emili designed a fountain in 1974 that was constructed on Ivan Kobler Square using paper press equipment (tijesak) made in the Rijeka factory.
St. Vitus’ Cathedral is the monumental Baroque rotunda located in the city of Rijeka, Croatia. The construction of the church began in 1638 under the direction of Jesuit architect G. Briano, and was modelled after the Venetian church of Santa Maria della Salute. The church is connected to the legend of Petar Lončarić, who became enraged over a gambling loss and hurled a stone at the early Gothic crucifix, which then began to bleed. The Baroque main altar of the new church was built to incorporate the crucifix, and in the spirit of believe in miracles, holds both the stone and a small bronze hand.
The construction of the church lasted a century, however the facade surfaces were left incomplete. In 1725, the new constructor, B. Martinuzzi, made adjustments to the church, including a gallery. The interior of the church is a Baroque “Gesamtkunstwerk” that was created by masters from Gorizia and Friuli such as S. Petruzzi, P. Lazzarini, L. Pacassi and A. Michelazzi. The church was consecrated in 1742 and is situated adjacent to the buildings of the Jesuit seminary and college which were destroyed between the two world wars. A cannonball with a humorous Latin inscription which translates as ““This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here.” (referring to a Napoleonic Wars episode from 1813) was embedded near the main entrance of the church. St. Vitus’ church was later designated as a cathedral in 1969.
They do love charging for entrance into churches and Cathedrals in Croatia. I don’t recall, but I think St. Vitus one was € 3.
The Municipal Court of Rijeka, Croatia, was founded in 1848 in what was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It convened in a building in the city centre, the Palazzo della Loggia, which had previously been used as a Public Meeting Hall. The court was presided over by a judge or, in some cases, a jury, and prosecution performed by a state prosecutor. As the Austro-Hungarian Empire gradually dissolved, the court continued to operate as part of the independent State of Croatia. In 1990 it was renamed the Municipal Court of Rijeka and it was restructured to ensure compliance with the new post-socialist judicial system. Today, the court is responsible for dealing with civil, commercial, personal injury and other types of cases.
Nikola Host’s Park in Rijeka
Nikola Host’s Park (Park Nikole Hosta) is a tranquil urban sanctuary situated near Villa Androch on the rocky, multi-level terrain of downtown Rijeka. Established in the 19th century by Archduke Joseph, an avid admirer of the art of horticulture, this historic green space stands as the second oldest park in Rijeka. It used to be a botanical garden that was originally designed around the property, and it was subsequently named after Nikola Host, the prominent Austrian botanist who helped putting it together. Today, the site functions as a cherished refuge from the hectic city streets, where visitors can enjoy sweeping shade, leisurely strolls, and a relaxed coffee bar famous for its homemade lemonade.
The park holds several unique points of interest that make it a fascinating stop for travellers exploring the city. Boasting a rich layout that includes classical sculptures, water fountains, and different kinds of plants gathered from all over the world, the grounds still exhibit the distinct features of an English garden, though some of them have slowly been lost over time. In addition, the elegant Villa Androch still stands prominently within the park grounds, having transitioned from an archduke’s private property to nowadays housing the State Archives. Furthermore, nestled directly inside the park within the former nineteenth-century mansion of Count Negroni, the Rijeka Natural History Museum stands as the first regional scientific museum of its kind in the county, featuring fascinating paleontological discoveries from local caves, a unique fossil atlas, and field research exhibits. Similarly, operating alongside the museum, an interactive multimedia aquarium features a real-time marine aquarium where visitors can observe regional fish and study the diverse underwater biodiversity of the Adriatic Sea.
I’ve tried to find the information about this sphinx’s origin, but I couldn’t find any. Also this sphynx has been damaged in the past by vandals in 2013, but seems have been restored since then, but you can still see the remaining red paint on the neck. Interestingly enough the nose of the sculpture was removed, which aligns with ancient Egyptian beliefs, that statues had a life force and easiest way to disable them was to remove the nose, hence obstructing the breathing. I doubt that the original would be not in a museum.
The State Archives in Rijeka first began its operations in 1921, although the building itself was built in 1889. The main goal of the archives was to index and archive all documents relating to the history of the region and its people. In addition, the archives also collected documents and records from the local government administration, state and municipal courts, police and fire departments, as well as public organizations and private institutions.
In 1950, the State Archives moved to the premises it still occupies today, located in King Tomislav Square. In 1991, the archives began to collect and catalog materials related to the Yugoslav wars, such as material supplied by the United Nations Commission for the Former Yugoslavia, the International Criminal Tribunals for the Former Yugoslavia and Rwanda, and the International Court of Justice.
Today, the State Archives in Rijeka holds more than 5 million records, ranging from the 16th century to the present. It is a vital resource for those researching the history of Croatia. Additionally, it provides digitized records and scans to the public, as well as other services, such as archival research, lectures, and guided tours.
Looking at that old photo in 1901, it seems that some balconies on the left side of the building have disappeared! It was re-modelled in those 130 years.
On the Way to Rijekas Gem – Trsat Castle
Afther walking in the park we were heading to a famous Trsat Castle. Stopping by to take photos of beautiful views of Rijeka on the way up. Oh yeah the hike up on a hot day is a bit of a challenge!
Trsat Castle
Trsat Castle is 138m above sea level, overlooking the city center. The castle was built in the 13th century (first mentioned in 1288) by the powerful Frankopan family as a fortification and seat of government. In the 15th century, it was remodeled in the Gothic style, with renovation and expansion continuing well into the 16th century.
In 1767, the castle came under the rule of the powerful Habsburg Empire and, in 1781, it was appointed as the seat of the Austrian Ministry of Agriculture and Commerce. In 1809, during the Napoleonic Wars, it was heavily damaged and subsequently repaired to its current form.
It has recently been equipped with new amenities, such as a gallery displaying art exhibitions, summer concerts in the open air, theatrical performances, fashion shows, and literary evenings. It also has Bazilisk souvenir shop and the Gradina coffee bar inside of it, which is a nice place to have a coffe or a cold beverage on a hot summer day while enjoying the view of Rijeka.
Surprisingly the entrance was free of charge!
Going Down from Trsat Castle
We took a different route down, which was quite narrow and not very well maintained stairs, but it was a nice walk down.
Exploring Lower Part of Rijeka
In we evening we went out for another walk to explore the lower part of Rijeka.
I’ve never seen a freight train crossing in the middle of the city, but since the port is just right here it kind of make sense. Still it looked amazing when pedestrian light went green and the train was still going.
Jadrolinija Palace, built in 1897, is a must-see for anyone wishing to experience rich maritime heritage in Rijeka. The impressive edifice pays homage to the sailors that traveled abroad and brought back cultures, customs, and knowledge with them. On its façade, sculptures of four women symbolizing four continents greet visitors, while four sailors stand proudly on the other side. The entrance is decorated with two grandiose Titans statues, and the beauty of the architecture simply amazes all who enter. Although it now serves as an administrative building for the Jadrolinija maritime company, there are other companies and offices hosted there; allowing visitors to explore the interior.
Of course, the day we were leaving Rijeka the sky was clear, sunny and beautiful!
Best Beaches in Rijeka
Here is the rewritten and formatted list of the top coastal spots in Rijeka:
1. Sablićevo Beach
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5)
This iconic location is regarded as one of the most beautiful and oldest city beaches in Rijeka. It is nestled below a residential estate and accessed via steep steps. Visitors are greeted by a dramatic backdrop of steep cliffs, fine pebbles, and exceptionally stunning sea colours. Furthermore, underground freshwater springs ensure the water remains beautifully cool and refreshing during the peak of summer.
2. Uvala Svežanj Bay (Kostrena)
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4.5/5)
Situated just south of Rijeka near Kostrena, this hidden gem is located partly within a protected nature reserve. The natural bay features smooth round stones and turquoise waters. It is considered an exceptional spot for snorkeling due to its rich underwater life. Additionally, it offers a more pristine and preserved environment compared to urban beaches.
3. Plaža Ploče Beach (Fiumana Beach)
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4.5/5)
This expansive double pebble bay is one of the largest and most popular coastal spots north of the city centre. It proudly holds a Blue Flag certification for outstanding water quality. Moreover, the beach is positioned directly below the Kantrida swimming pool complex, providing visitors with access to diving boards, sports facilities, a diving school, a café, and a beach bar.
4. Kostrena Beach
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4.5/5)
Located eight kilometres south of the city, this romantic bay offers incredibly fine pebbles and crystal-clear water where snorkellers can easily spot starfish and fish. A scenic waterfront promenade lines the coast, leading to further secluded coves. In addition, the beach is well-serviced by a local restaurant and several inviting beach bars.
5. Preluk Beach
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
Positioned roughly ten kilometres north of the centre, this peaceful area serves as an excellent insider tip for travellers seeking tranquility. The section by the S-Bar features a clean pebble shoreline and calm, translucent turquoise waters that are ideal for snorkeling. Similarly, the wider area accommodates clothing-optional sunbathing and various hidden coves.
6. Glavanovo Beach
⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5)
This quiet and wild coastal spot is defined by its romantic landscape of towering rocks and light, fine pebbles. The sea here is kept clean and brisk by subterranean springs. However, visitors must bring their own refreshments, as there are no commercial bars or restaurants available on this secluded shoreline.
Don’t Miss These Places in Rijeka
💎 Leaning tower of Rijeka: This fourteenth-century Venetian bell tower earned its popular nickname due to a noticeable forty-centimetre tilt caused by unstable, waterlogged foundations. It serves as a rare medieval monument that stands directly over ancient Roman bath ruins. Furthermore, the quirky landmark underwent a major restoration in 1928 to preserve its historic Gothic appearance for modern visitors.
💎 Old Gateway or Roman Arch (Stara Vrata): Dating back two millennia, this monumental stone archway stands as the oldest architectural monument in the entire city of Rijeka. It originally functioned as a fortified gateway leading into the military headquarters of the Roman settlement of Tarsatica. In addition, the resilient stone structure became seamlessly integrated into the urban fabric over the centuries, with medieval residential houses built directly over it.