After seeing Zadar, we were on our way to Rijeka. Rijeka is well known in Croatia for its diverse culture, for its port, for hosting many festivals and events throughout the year, and for its beautiful coastline. It is also the third largest city in Croatia, and its beaches are some of the most beautiful in Eastern Europe, which we completely missed out!
We stopped for lunch at Buffet Bragoc. The restaurant had a very good rating and it was really easy to park next to it. We’ve ordered loads of seafood with drinks and total bill for 3 people was € 80 and all of it was delicious!






Our apartment was called Apartment Mia and it had amazing view from the balcony!



It was already 7:00pm when we arrived, so after a shower and changing clothes we headed for dinner. Since we didn’t want to go far we chose nearby restaurant called Bistro Mornar. The rating was very good, but the service not so much. We had to wait for really long time to take order and then they had to come back to say that they didn’t have some dish after like 30 min and in total we’ve waited like 1h 30 min to get the mains. We were about to give up. Also getting the bill took some time too. The food was OK, but not worth the wait. Titak bill was € 79 for 3 people.


Next day was much better! The Sun was out and it was completely different view from the balcony!

Rijeka is a city located in Primorje-Gorski Kotar County, in western Croatia. It stands on Rječina River, at the Bay of Kvarner on the northern Adriatic Sea. The city is the administrative center of Primorje-Gorski Kotar County and its population was estimated to be 128,624 in 2019.
Rijeka has a long and turbulent history, as it was often at the center of various empires trying to gain control of the region. Archaeological remains from the prehistoric period indicate that the area had been inhabited since the Bronze Age. The first written records about the city date back to 1288 when it was part of Venetian Republic. Rijeka went on to fall under the rule of various empires such as the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Italy after the First World War, until it eventually came under Croatian control in 1991.
During the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Rijeka became a major port and industrial city, which helped contribute to its growth and prosperity. In 2018 the city was the third largest city in Croatia by population and its population continues to increase today.
Rijeka is now an important economic (one of the most important sea ports) and cultural hub, as well as a popular tourist destination. It is home to several cultural institutions, such as the National Theatre and the Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka, as well as to several universities and research institutions. Population of Rijeka is 108,622 people (3rd in the country).

City Tower serves as a symbol for the city. It was built in the Middle Ages and has since been remodeled multiple times over the centuries. There is an imperial coat of arms carved into the stone and a city clock was added to its superstructure in the 17th century. The tower is located in Korzo and was once access point for the fortified town. There is a relief of Austrian emperors Leopold and Charles VI on the tower that is a tribute to the maritime orientation they brought to Austrian court policies. On the lower part of the tower there are some Baroque decorations, including a richly decorated portal. There is also a replica of a Rijeka double-headed eagle on the top of the tower which was sculpted in 2017 by Hrvoje Uremović and is modelled on the original 1906 sculpture. Early classical palaces were built around the tower as annexes by the end of the 18th century following the demolition of the city walls. In the passage by the tower in the Old Town there are memorial inscriptions and a master-stonemason’s signature is also preserved.

To commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Rijeka Paper Factory, one of the oldest factories in Europe, architect Igor Emili designed a fountain in 1974 that was constructed on Ivan Kobler Square using paper press equipment (tijesak) made in the Rijeka factory.

St. Vitus’ Cathedral is the monumental Baroque rotunda located in the city of Rijeka, Croatia. The construction of the church began in 1638 under the direction of Jesuit architect G. Briano, and was modelled after the Venetian church of Santa Maria della Salute. The church is connected to the legend of Petar Lončarić, who became enraged over a gambling loss and hurled a stone at the early Gothic crucifix, which then began to bleed. The Baroque main altar of the new church was built to incorporate the crucifix, and in the spirit of believe in miracles, holds both the stone and a small bronze hand.
The construction of the church lasted a century, however the facade surfaces were left incomplete. In 1725, the new constructor, B. Martinuzzi, made adjustments to the church, including a gallery. The interior of the church is a Baroque “Gesamtkunstwerk” that was created by masters from Gorizia and Friuli such as S. Petruzzi, P. Lazzarini, L. Pacassi and A. Michelazzi. The church was consecrated in 1742 and is situated adjacent to the buildings of the Jesuit seminary and college which were destroyed between the two world wars. A cannonball with a humorous Latin inscription which translates as ““This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here.” (referring to a Napoleonic Wars episode from 1813) was embedded near the main entrance of the church. St. Vitus’ church was later designated as a cathedral in 1969.
They do love charging for entrance into churches and Cathedrals in Croatia. I don’t recall, but I think St. Vitus one was € 3.


The Municipal Court of Rijeka, Croatia, was founded in 1848 in what was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It convened in a building in the city centre, the Palazzo della Loggia, which had previously been used as a Public Meeting Hall. The court was presided over by a judge or, in some cases, a jury, and prosecution performed by a state prosecutor. As the Austro-Hungarian Empire gradually dissolved, the court continued to operate as part of the independent State of Croatia. In 1990 it was renamed the Municipal Court of Rijeka and it was restructured to ensure compliance with the new post-socialist judicial system. Today, the court is responsible for dealing with civil, commercial, personal injury and other types of cases.



Nikola Host’s Park, situated near Villa Androch, is the second oldest park in Rijeka. It used to be a botanical garden and was built in the 19th century by Archduke Joseph, an avid admirer of the art of horticulture. Featuring sculptures, water fountains, and different kinds of plants gathered from all over the world, the park has the features of an English garden, though some of them have slowly been lost over time. The park was called after the Austrian botanist who helped putting it together. Nowadays, Villa Androch houses the State Archives.

I’ve tried to find the details about this sphinx origin, but I couldn’t find any. Also this sphynx has been damaged in the past by vandals in 2013, but seems have been restored since then, but you can still see the remaining red paint on the neck. Interestingly enough the nose of the sculpture was removed, which aligns with ancient Egyptian beliefs, that statues had a life force and easiest way to disable them was to remove the nose, hence obstructing the breathing. I doubt that the original would be not in a museum.



The State Archives in Rijeka first began its operations in 1921, although the building itself was built in 1889. The main goal of the archives was to index and archive all documents relating to the history of the region and its people. In addition, the archives also collected documents and records from the local government administration, state and municipal courts, police and fire departments, as well as public organizations and private institutions.
In 1950, the State Archives moved to the premises it still occupies today, located in King Tomislav Square. In 1991, the archives began to collect and catalog materials related to the Yugoslav wars, such as material supplied by the United Nations Commission for the Former Yugoslavia, the International Criminal Tribunals for the Former Yugoslavia and Rwanda, and the International Court of Justice.
Today, the State Archives in Rijeka holds more than 5 million records, ranging from the 16th century to the present. It is a vital resource for those researching the history of Croatia. Additionally, it provides digitized records and scans to the public, as well as other services, such as archival research, lectures, and guided tours.
Looking at that old photo in 1901, it seems that some balconies on the left side of the building have disappeared! It was re-modelled in those 130 years.











Trsat Castle is 138m above sea level, overlooking the city center. The castle was built in the 13th century (first mentioned in 1288) by the powerful Frankopan family as a fortification and seat of government. In the 15th century, it was remodeled in the Gothic style, with renovation and expansion continuing well into the 16th century.
In 1767, the castle came under the rule of the powerful Habsburg Empire and, in 1781, it was appointed as the seat of the Austrian Ministry of Agriculture and Commerce. In 1809, during the Napoleonic Wars, it was heavily damaged and subsequently repaired to its current form.
It has recently been equipped with new amenities, such as a gallery displaying art exhibitions, summer concerts in the open air, theatrical performances, fashion shows, and literary evenings. It also has Bazilisk souvenir shop and the Gradina coffee bar inside of it, which is a nice place to have a coffe or a cold beverage on a hot summer day while enjoying the view of Rijeka.

Surprisingly the entrance was free of charge!










We took a different route down, which was quite narrow and not very well maintained stairs, but it was a nice walk down.




In we evening we went out for a walk to see how Rijeka looks like when in the evening.

I’ve never seen a freight train crossing in the middle of the city, but since the port is just right here it kind of make sense. Still it looked amazing when pedestrian light went green and the train was still going.




Jadrolinija Palace, built in 1897, is a must-see for anyone wishing to experience rich maritime heritage in Rijeka. The impressive edifice pays homage to the sailors that traveled abroad and brought back cultures, customs, and knowledge with them. On its façade, sculptures of four women symbolizing four continents greet visitors, while four sailors stand proudly on the other side. The entrance is decorated with two grandiose Titans statues, and the beauty of the architecture simply amazes all who enter. Although it now serves as an administrative building for the Jadrolinija maritime company, there are other companies and offices hosted there; allowing visitors to explore the interior.




Of course, the day we were leaving Rijeka the sky was clear, sunny and beautiful!
Don’t miss out
Beaches near Rijeka – apparently one of the best in Europe
We’ve completely missed out on the beaches near Rijeka, so make sure to checkout this list:

Some more tips on what to see in Rijeka: