After our lively misadventure at the Catafurco Waterfall, we set our sights on the coastal town of Taormina. Navigating the winding mountain roads towards the east coast presented a delightfully dramatic drive through the steep Sicilian terrain. In addition, ascending the final stretch into Taormina proved to be a genuine marvel of modern civil engineering, as the roadway wound upward inside a continuous spiral tunnel reminiscent of a multi-storey parking garage. On the other hand, spiralling steadily higher into the cliffside offered us occasional tantalising glimpses of the surrounding hills between the turns. Emerging at the top of this incredible spiral ascent provided an unforgettable introduction to the elevated beauty of Taormina.
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Parking in Taormina
Navigating the ascent up the steep hillside into Taormina proved quite challenging due to the narrow and winding streets. Furthermore, we managed to secure a convenient parking spot just a few paces from our accommodation, which felt like a massive relief. In addition, stepping through the entrance of Hotel Sole-Castello immediately revealed an incredible outdoor pool set against a truly breathtaking backdrop. Specifically, the panoramic vista swept across the blue sea, the vast sky, and the magnificent, smoking peak of Mount Etna rising in the distance. On the other hand, while the hotel room itself felt a bit tired and in need of some modern renovation, the sensational poolside view made staying there completely worthwhile. Unwinding by the water while taking in one of Sicily’s most iconic landscapes provided a fantastic start to our time in Taormina.
Taormina – Wedding Destination
Nestled along the Sicilian coast, Taormina serves as a picturesque destination for weddings, preserved through time by generations of unique local customs. Furthermore, watching a traditional wedding unfolds as a journey through rich cultural practices, from solemn sacred vows inside historic churches to spirited celebrations overlooking the sea. In addition, couples often mark the beginning of their journey together with a spumante toast, exchanging glasses of sparkling wine to symbolise shared joy and prosperity. Similarly, the feast that follows features classic Sicilian delicacies like rich eggplant parmigiana, freshly caught seafood pasta, and crisp cannoli. On the other hand, traditional touches such as the Mazzo di Fiori flower exchanges and gift presentations add a deeply personal layer to the festivities.
Sitting at a table by our hotel pool, we happened to catch a lovely glimpse of a wedding taking place just down the road. Furthermore, watching the celebration unfold from our vantage point added a delightful touch of local life to our evening. In addition, the poor bride looked noticeably nervous as she carefully navigated the town’s steep, cobblestone downhill slope in her formal gown and heels. Witnessing this charming scene against the breathtaking coastal backdrop became a memorable highlight of our time in Taormina.
Breakfast With a View of Taormina
The breakfast was good, some sweets, ham and cheese accompanied by yogurt and coffee. Good way to start the morning.
Madonna della Rocca in Taormina
After breakfast we went to explore Taormina. Climbing the winding, paved path far above the bustling streets of Taormina brings you to the small, dramatic Sanctuary of the Madonna della Rocca (Chiesa della Madonna della Rocca). Furthermore, this modest 17th-century rock church was founded around 1640 by Abbot Francesco Raineri directly into the cliffside of Mount Tauro, utilizing the natural cave shape so that part of its rough ceiling and walls consist of raw, living stone. In addition, local legend tells of a young shepherd boy who sought shelter in the grotto during a sudden, violent storm. Mysterious lightning flashes revealed a vision of a luminous woman holding a child, and when villagers later returned to the cavern, they discovered the image of the Virgin Mary miraculously etched into the rock face.
The small paved square outside the church opens up into a remarkable terrace perched high on the edge of the precipice. Furthermore, standing beside the rustic stone facade offers an unobstructed, sweeping view across the deep blue expanse of the Ionian Sea, the coastline stretching towards Messina, and the terracotta roofs of Taormina far below. In addition, looking further up the mountain reveals the towering stone walls of the Saracen Castle guarding the peak above. Taking a moment to rest in the quiet surroundings of this cliffside sanctuary provides a deeply peaceful escape accompanied by one of the finest panoramic vistas of Ionian Sea in all of Sicily.
Knights of Taormina: Handcrafted Sicilian Marionettes
Visiting the artisan displays in Taormina revealed the striking, armour-clad figures known locally as the Pupi Siciliani, the legendary stars of Sicily’s traditional puppet theatre, the Opera dei Pupi. Furthermore, these marionettes represent far more than simple souvenirs, as the art form behind them dates back to the early 19th century and holds UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status. In addition, each puppet stands as a masterpiece of local craftsmanship, meticulously built by hand using carved wood, articulated limbs, and intricately hammered metal armour. Similarly, skilled artisans spend countless hours shaping the elaborate shields, breastplates, and colourful feathered crests that give each noble warrior a unique identity.
The dramatic performances associated with these figures revolve around epic medieval legends, predominantly drawn from the French Carolingian cycle, The Song of Roland, and Ludovico Ariosto’s Orlando Furioso. Specifically, these classic tales recount the heroic adventures, romantic rivalries, and dramatic battles of Emperor Charlemagne and his noble paladins. For instance, the brave paladin Orlando remains the most famous hero, instantly recognizable by his cross-bearing shield, who famously descends into madness after his love, Princess Angelica, marries another. Likewise, his cousin and fiercest rival, Rinaldo, brings a fiery temper, quick intellect, and his magical horse to the fight, while the scheming villain Gano di Magonza plots the treacherous ambush of the heroic knights.
Historically, travelling puppeteers, known as pupari, brought these grand stories of chivalry, honour, and passion to life in town squares across the island. Furthermore, passionate audiences would cheer for their favourite knights and hurl insults at the villains during loud, clanging metal sword fights controlled by heavy iron rods. Accidentally discovering these majestic marionettes on display in Taormina offers a wonderful connection to Sicily’s rich tradition of folk storytelling.
Porta Messina
Walking through the grand stone archway of Porta Messina feels like stepping directly across the boundary between modern Sicily and centuries of rich history. Furthermore, serving as the northern gateway to Taormina’s historic quarter, this impressive stone portal has welcomed travellers, merchants, and conquerors for generations. In addition, crossing its threshold immediately places you onto the vibrant Corso Umberto, the pedestrian heart of the town where lively atmosphere and historic architecture blend seamlessly.
The origins of this famous entrance trace back to the strategic defense systems built during the period of Arab rule on the island. Furthermore, the gate was once part of a formidable triple-fortification wall designed to guard the settlement against rival armies and pirate raids arriving along the northern coast. On the other hand, the classical stone facade seen today dates to a major restoration in 1808 under King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, earning it the historic title of Porta Ferdinandea.
Today, passing beneath the soaring stone arch offers a memorable sense of arrival to any stroll through Taormina. Furthermore, looking back through the archway creates a stunning visual frame of the sea and distant hills against the bright Mediterranean sky.
Sicilian Moors Heads
Throughout Sicily, colourful ceramic flowerpots shaped like crowned heads—known as Testa di Moro—adorn balconies, shopfronts, and garden terraces. Furthermore, these striking pieces of Sicilian craftsmanship represent a traditional symbol of intense passion, jealousy, and betrayal. In addition, the symbolism of the Moorish heads remains deeply rooted in the island’s complex multicultural history and rich literary heritage.
The most famous and widely told legend behind these ceramic heads originates in Palermo during the period of Arab rule around the 11th century. Furthermore, a beautiful young Sicilian woman who spent her days tending to vibrant flowers on her balcony caught the eye of a passing Moorish merchant. In addition, a passionate romance quickly blossomed between the two, until the maiden discovered a heartbreaking secret: her lover had a wife and children awaiting his return in his homeland. Driven to a frenzy of betrayal and jealousy, she waited until he fell asleep, severed his head, and fashioned it into a balcony vase to grow basil. Nurtured by her tears, the basil flourished so magnificently that her envious neighbours began crafting their own colourful terracotta heads to decorate their balconies.
On the other hand, another darker folk legend tells of two Moorish brothers named Al-Amin and Al-Kabir living on the island. Furthermore, while both were brave and strong, Al-Amin was far more handsome and widely admired across the land. Driven mad by jealousy, Al-Kabir murdered his brother in his sleep and presented the severed head to a local ruler as a macabre trophy of power. Consequently, tales of violent jealousy and revenge became woven into the cultural identity of the region, inspiring generations of Sicilian writers, painters, and artisans.
Today, these decorative ceramic heads serve as a powerful reminder of the complex human emotions of passion, loyalty, and betrayal. Furthermore, craftsmen across ceramic hubs like Caltagirone continue to hand-paint these iconic figures with intricate details, majestic crowns, and vibrant glazes. In addition, far from being purely gruesome relics, the Testa di Moro figures have evolved into beloved symbols of Sicilian pride, artistic mastery, and timeless storytelling.
Teatro Antico di Taormina
Later during the day, we walked to the magnificent Teatro Antico di Taormina, perched high on the cliffside of Mount Tauro. Furthermore, constructed by the Greeks around the 3rd century BC under the reign of Hiero II of Syracuse, this remarkable structure stands as the second-largest ancient theatre in Sicily after the one in Syracuse. In addition, the original Greek builders cleverly excavated over 100,000 cubic metres of rock directly from the mountain to carve out the semicircular seating tiers. Following the Roman conquest, engineers extensively expanded and remodelled the complex in the 2nd century AD, altering the central orchestra into a fortified arena complete with underground passages to accommodate intense gladiatorial games and wild animal hunts.
Centuries after falling into ruin following the end of the Roman era, the site experienced a dramatic rebirth when 18th-century European travellers on the “Grand Tour” fell in love with its romantic atmosphere. Furthermore, famous literary figures like Johann Wolfgang von Goethe praised the breathtaking vista, describing the sweeping frame of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea through the cracked columns as one of the finest views in Europe. In addition, extensive 19th-century restorations helped stabilise the iconic brick arches and Corinthian columns, bringing new life to the long-abandoned ruin.
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Italian Name | Teatro Antico di Taormina (often called the Greco-Roman Theatre) |
| Construction Era | Originally built c. 3rd century BC (Greek); expanded c. 2nd century AD (Roman) |
| Location | Mount Tauro, Taormina, Sicily |
| Scale & Size | Second-largest ancient theatre in Sicily (109 metres in diameter) |
| Original Capacity | Approximately 5,000 to 10,000 spectators |
| Key Architectural Feature | Open brickwork scaenae frons framing Mount Etna and the Bay of Naxos |
| Primary Modern Use | Summer venue for concerts, operas, and the annual Taormina Film Fest |
Today, the ancient open-air venue remains a world-class cultural stage rather than a quiet museum piece. Furthermore, the theatre hosts prestigious international gatherings, grand operas, ballet performances, and rock concerts featuring major global artists. In addition, every summer the site becomes the primary setting for the famous Taormina Film Fest, where film premieres unfold under the starry Mediterranean night sky. Sitting on the ancient stone steps while watching the sun set over Mount Etna provides an unforgettable bridge between ancient history and modern culture. I wish Etna was spitting the smoke or fire when I was sitting there! That would have left a lasting impression.
The Teatro Antico di Taormina is best seen from afar by travelling up to the medieval hilltop village of Castelmola situated directly above the town. Furthermore, standing in the main square of Piazza Sant’Antonio in Castelmola offers an unmatched aerial vantage point where the entire semicircular structure appears neatly etched into the cliffside below. In addition, the slightly closer terrace at Chiesa della Madonna della Rocca provides a clearer view of the ancient brick arches set against the backdrop of the sea. Looking down from these elevated heights highlights how masterfully the ancient builders blended the classic stone architecture into the dramatic cliffside terrain.
Garden of Naumachia di Taormina
While wandering through the picturesque, winding streets of Taormina, we stumbled upon a beautiful hidden gem known as the Naumachia. Furthermore, this impressive site features a vast ancient Roman brick wall built around the 1st century BC, which stands as one of the oldest and largest surviving Roman structures in all of Sicily. In addition, the massive wall spans over one hundred metres in length and contains eighteen sweeping arched niches that originally supported an enormous water reservoir or gymnasium complex. On the other hand, visiting this quiet historical enclave today allows you to wander through a charming public garden tucked neatly beside the ancient red-brick ruins. Taking a moment to relax and cool off amidst the lush Mediterranean greenery while admiring two thousand years of preserved Roman architecture provided a peaceful break from the lively town centre.
Green Streets of Taormina
Villa Comunale di Taormina
While wandering through the town, we accidentally stumbled upon the lush greenery of the Villa Comunale di Taormina, which treated us to amazing views of the sea stretching out towards the horizon. Furthermore, this splendid public park originally began as the private retreat of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an eccentric English noblewoman who settled in Taormina during the late 19th century and filled the terraces with rare exotic plants. In addition, she constructed charming architectural follies throughout the gardens known as “Victorian Follies”, built from brick, stone, and lava rock as quiet stations for reading and birdwatching. On the other hand, ownership of the estate eventually passed to the municipality in 1922, transforming the peaceful sanctuary into a public haven for local residents and travellers alike.
Strolling through the terraced pathways today reveals a vibrant botanical oasis filled with Mediterranean flora, palm trees, and colourful flowers. Furthermore, resting on the quiet benches offers stunning panoramas of the coastline and Mount Etna framing the deep blue water. In addition, exploring the uniquely designed pavilions provides a wonderful glimpse into the romantic, eclectic history of the garden. These shaded grounds were very pleasant during the hot day.
Standing within the lush grounds of the Villa Comunale di Taormina, this intricate structure is one of the famous Victorian Follies built by Lady Florence Trevelyan in the late 19th century. Furthermore, these multi-tiered pavilions showcase an eccentric blend of Gothic, Romanesque, and Oriental architectural styles, meticulously constructed using local lava rock, red brick, stone, and decorative timber. In addition, Lady Florence, an English noblewoman and passionate ornithologist, designed these whimsical towers—often called beehives—as quiet personal sanctuaries where she could paint, read, and observe local bird species high above the coastline. Wandering past this layered stone tower today offers a fascinating glimpse into the romantic history and unique artistic legacy that shaped these seaside gardens.
Well Deserver Rest in the Hotel
After enjoying a peaceful stroll through the lush gardens of the park, making the journey back to the hotel involved tackling a long stretch of steep, overgrown stone stairs. Furthermore, carefully navigating the winding steps through the dense foliage added a brief sense of adventure to the afternoon walk. In addition, reaching the top after the steady climb made returning to the cool comfort of the room feel all the more rewarding. Settling back into the hotel offered a perfectly refreshing end to a wonderful day of exploring Taormina.
Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina
After taking a well-deserved rest back at the hotel, setting out again meant heading right back down those steep stone stairs into town. Furthermore, descending the winding steps turned out to be far easier on the legs than the climb up earlier in the afternoon. In addition, reaching the bottom brought us straight back onto the vibrant streets just in time for an evening stroll.
Strolling along the vibrant Corso Umberto naturally brings you to Piazza IX Aprile, the iconic main square that serves as the living room of Taormina. Furthermore, this famous terrace is celebrated for its distinctive black-and-white checkered paving and its dramatic balcony offering sweeping, panoramic views of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. In addition, the square owes its name to a historical rumour that spread on April 9, 1860, announcing that Giuseppe Garibaldi had landed in Marsala to begin the unification of Italy—a rumour that proved slightly premature by a month, though the locals chose to keep the date to honour the patriotic spirit of the era.
Bordered by historic landmarks, the square showcases a rich tapestry of Sicilian heritage and architecture. Furthermore, guarding the entrance to the old medieval quarter stands the impressive Clock Tower (Torre dell’Orologio), which was rebuilt in the 1670s over ancient 12th-century foundations. In addition, the plaza is framed by two beautiful churches: the 17th-century Church of Saint Joseph (Chiesa di San Giuseppe) with its grand double staircase, and the former 15th-century Church of Sant’Agostino, which today houses the town’s public library.
Today, Piazza IX Aprile remains the vibrant heart of local life and culture in Taormina. Furthermore, open-air cafes, street musicians, and artists painting portraits fill the sun-drenched square from morning until night. This is a perfect spot for sunrise view!
Chiesa di San Giuseppe
Standing proudly on the northern edge of Piazza IX Aprile, the Church of Saint Joseph (Chiesa di San Giuseppe) serves as a striking focal point in Taormina. Furthermore, built between the late 17th and early 18th centuries in classic Sicilian Baroque style, the church features a grand double staircase made from vibrant local marble. In addition, its facade leads up to a picturesque belfry crowned with a dome of colourful majolica tiles.
Inside, the lavish single-nave interior is adorned with delicate stuccoes and a polychrome marble main altar. Furthermore, these artistic details reflect the heritage of the Confraternity of the Souls in Purgatory, who originally commissioned the building. Stepping inside this peaceful sanctuary provides a delightful contrast to the bustling, sun-drenched square resting just outside and provides a perfect place to cool off and contemplate.
Church of Saint Augustine
Situated along the south-western side of Piazza IX Aprile, the Church of Saint Augustine (Chiesa di Sant’Agostino) stands as one of the oldest and most historic structures in Taormina. Furthermore, originally constructed in 1448 in a charming late-Gothic style, the building initially served as a monastery for the Hermits of Saint Augustine following the town’s survival of a devastating plague. In addition, the facade features a striking stone portal, a delicate rose window crafted from local limestone, and a small crenellated bell tower that resembles a medieval fortress.
Following extensive restorations over the centuries, the deconsecrated church took on a whole new life as the town’s civic library and cultural space. Furthermore, while the original religious interior has been adapted over time, the stone arches and vaulted ceilings still showcase the artistic beauty of its 15th-century roots. In addition, the former monastery now hosts art exhibitions, historical displays, and community gatherings right in the heart of the town.
Lunch at Ristorante Pizzeria Taormina
Tucked down a picturesque, narrow stone alleyway lined with lush potted plants and wrought-iron lanterns, Ristorante Pizzeria Taormina offered a delightfully charming setting for lunch. Navigating the cobblestone steps leading toward the yellow awning made finding the spot feel like discovering a quiet local haven amidst the town. In addition, browsing through the traditional menu revealed an appetising selection of red pizzas, featuring classical regional specialties alongside seafood creations.
The pizzas arrived freshly baked with perfectly charred crusts straight from the oven. The seafood pizza (Isola Bella) came generously laden with fresh mussels, clams, tender prawns, and tuna scattered over a rich tomato base. In addition, the classic Margherita pizza proved equally delightful, showcasing vibrant tomato sauce topped with melted mozzarella and fresh basil leaves at its centre. Enjoying freshly prepared pizzas in such a scenic, secluded alleyway made for a truly memorable dining experience during our afternoon in Taormina.
Open Air Gallery in the Street
Wandering down another charming side street in Taormina brought us to a picturesque set of stone stairs transformed into an open-air art gallery. Colorful oil paintings rested against the historic walls and stepped landings, displaying vivid scenes of coastal landscapes and romantic figures walking under umbrellas. In addition to that, lush greenery draped from balconies and terraced gardens above, framing the outdoor exhibition with natural beauty. Taking a moment to admire the artwork displayed along this quiet cobblestone alley added a delightful touch of local creative flair to our walk.
Church of Sant’Antonio Abate
Standing near Porta Catania at the southern entrance to the historic town centre, the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate stands as a charming historical monument in Taormina. Furthermore, originally constructed in the 14th century in a humble Gothic style, the church features a distinctive facade topped by a small bell tower and a crenellated parapet reminiscent of medieval fortifications. In addition, the entrance portal is framed by local limestone accents, showcasing the straightforward masonry characteristic of early Sicilian sacral architecture.
Over the centuries, the church underwent several structural modifications while retaining its historic medieval footprint. Furthermore, the single-nave interior traditionally served as a place of worship dedicated to Saint Anthony the Abbot, a revered patron associated with healing and agricultural protection. In addition, following damages sustained during World War II, the deconsecrated church was thoughtfully restored and given a new purpose as a civic cultural venue. Stepping past its historic doorway today allows visitors to enjoy seasonal nativity scenes, art exhibitions, and cultural displays set within one of Taormina’s oldest surviving sacred spaces.
Porta Catania
Marking the western entrance to the historic town centre along Corso Umberto, Porta Catania stands as an impressive reminder of Taormina’s medieval fortifications. Furthermore, originally constructed in 1440—as recorded by an inscription on the structure itself—the stone gateway served as a crucial defensive barrier protecting the town from potential invasions. In addition, the rugged limestone arch is adorned with the prominent coat of arms of Aragon, symbolizing the royal authority and noble families that governed Sicily during that era.
The structure is officially known as Porta del Tocco because public assemblies were historically held in the adjacent square during the medieval period. Furthermore, it acquired its common modern name due to its geographic orientation facing south toward the city of Catania. In addition, passing through its heavy vaulted archway today provides a wonderful sense of stepping back in time as you transition into the lively pedestrian heart of the town. Admiring this grand stone gate offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich military history and architectural heritage of Taormina.
Duomo di Taormina
Inside the historic Duomo di Taormina (the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas), a venerable Byzantine-style icon of the Madonna holds a special place in the town’s spiritual heritage. Furthermore, this precious artwork—painted on wood and framed in elegant silver—depicts the Virgin Mary in the classic Hodegetria style, presenting the Infant Jesus to the faithful. In addition, local tradition holds that the image was discovered painted on a marble slab hidden behind a wall during repairs, sparking centuries of deep religious devotion among the people of Taormina.
Over the centuries, the venerated icon became associated with protective miracles and steady faith, especially during times of town crisis and hardship. Furthermore, it remains one of the central treasures housed within the cathedral’s heavy stone walls. Careful restoration efforts over the years have helped preserve the delicate details of the painting and its ornate silver embellishments.
Long Stairs Back to Hotel
Heading back to the hotel meant tackling those long stone stairs once again, which were heavily overgrown with wild vegetation. Navigating through the tangled greenery left me wondering why no one had maintained the path, though the complete absence of other people suggested that very few travellers ever used it and took taxi instead to go up. Climbing the endless steps under the blazing hot sun proved to be quite an exhausting trek. It was clear that the stairs had been neglected for a long time, as the unchecked plant growth was slowly cracking and breaking apart the old stone structure. Reaching the top and cooling off with some relaxing time by the hotel pool made the exhausting climb feel entirely worth it.
Dinner With an Obstructed View
For dinner, we decided to dine at a restaurant located conveniently near our hotel. While it was only a short walk away, arriving without a reservation proved to be a bit of a gamble. However, the waiter managed to seat us at an available table, which was a bit unstable and not even set, further back from the edge, meaning the view was not quite as spectacular as we had hoped. We had to wait for table to bet set with table cloth, glasses and cutlery.
The meal itself began on a high note with a starter of crispy fried squid and prawns, which turned out to be delicious. Furthermore, while the flavours remained excellent throughout the meal, the main dish arrived in a surprisingly small portion. In my opinion, the fish fillet was rather tiny—hardly larger than a single slice of bread. On the other hand, the taste was truly delightful, and finishing the evening with a classic, crispy cannoli for dessert made for a lovely overall dining experience. Ah, we also made a mistake to order red wine with seafood, which didn’t go well with all that seafood.
Next we were heading to Catania and Etna Volcano!