Today had an interesting and quite strange agenda – to visit Havana’s Cemetery. The sky looked blue and the clouds from yesterday were gone. This morning, for breakfast we went to Area 53 cafe, which served as quite big breakfast. As usual in Cuba, they have double menus for locals and tourists as well as they gave us the wrong one first. However, the cafe had a nice bacon and fries with egg on top and also sandwiches were nice.
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Plaza de Revolution
Then we took the car to go to Plaza de Revolution. Parking guy didn’t charge us for parking for a first time. We took loads of pictures and decided not to go inside of Jose Marti Memorial as it felt a bit of scam due to the price for what it is.
Havana’s Plaza de la Revolución (Revolution Square) is not merely a vast open space; it is the symbolic heart of modern Cuba, a site steeped in the nation’s revolutionary history and a stage for some of its most significant political and social events. Originally conceived as “Plaza Cívica” in the 1920s by French urbanist Jean-Claude Forestier, its monumental scale and radiating avenues were designed with a grand civic purpose in mind, though its true historical significance would emerge after 1959.
The square is dominated by the José Martí Memorial, a soaring, star-shaped tower that stands as the tallest structure in Havana. At its base sits a colossal white marble statue of José Martí, Cuba’s national hero and intellectual author of the revolution, a figure whose ideals deeply inspired Fidel Castro and his movement. Visitors can ascend the tower for panoramic views of Havana, gaining a unique perspective on the city’s sprawling landscape.
Flanking the square are various government buildings, most famously the Ministry of the Interior, adorned with the iconic iron silhouette of Che Guevara based on Alberto Korda’s famous photograph, beneath which is emblazoned the slogan “Hasta la Victoria Siempre” (Until Victory, Always). An adjacent building, the Ministry of Communications, features a similar silhouette of Camilo Cienfuegos, another key figure of the revolution, with the words “Vas bien, Fidel” (You’re doing well, Fidel).
Havana’s Colón Cemetery
After that we tried to find Colón Cemetery. We were going round in circles as it is not easy to turn left, you need to plan alternative routes to cross the road from perpendicular Road. In the end we drove around entire cemetery and parked a car in from of the gate, where Parking guy asked for 1CUC. We shouldn’t have given it. They all are so fake. No receipts and signs don’t mention any paid parking.
Entrance to cemetery was ticketed too. 6 CUC per person! Tourists are ripped off everywhere in here.
Cemetery was huge and it is indeed a city within the city. Many memorials and burial sites, angels, Jesus and St Mary. It was very quiet and peaceful, just some tourists coming in with cars inside disturbing the peace of the resting dead.
Havana’s Colón Cemetery, officially known as Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón, is far more than a final resting place; it is a sprawling open-air museum and a significant cultural landmark. Often cited as one of the largest cemeteries in the Americas, with over 56,000 tombs, it covers an impressive 140 acres, encompassing hundreds of thousands of interments within its geometrically laid-out grounds. It’s so vast, it even has its own internal street grid and a central administrative building that resembles a grand church.
Its avenues and pathways are lined with an astonishing array of sculptures, statues, mausoleums, and elaborate tombs that showcase diverse architectural styles, from classical and Romanesque to Art Deco. Beyond the sheer beauty, fascinating stories abound: look for the tomb of La Milagrosa (The Miraculous One), Amelia Goyri, whose devotion to her baby even in death has inspired a cult-like following, with visitors tapping on her grave and leaving flowers. There’s also the grave of the Cuban baseball team that won the 1938 World Amateur Baseball Championship, marked by a bat and ball.
Among the stunning artistry of Havana’s Colón Cemetery, the Mausoleum of the Firefighters (Mausoleo de los Bomberos) stands tall – quite literally. This towering monument, featuring some of the cemetery’s highest sculptures, is a poignant tribute to the brave firefighters who lost their lives battling an 1890 blaze at the Isasi hardware store. Standing 10 meters high, this impressive funeral artwork was created by renowned Spanish sculptor Augustín Querol Subirats, whose celebrated works are also featured in Spain’s Museo del Prado. It’s a must-see for its artistic merit and heartfelt historical significance.
The mausoleum is crowned by a striking angel cradling a deceased fireman. Below, the pedestal features intricate sculptures: a religious figure on the right and a symbolic representation of the Republic on the left, holding a crown of laurels. What truly sets this monument apart is its poignant realism – at the base of the pedestal, the sculptor immortalized the faces of the fallen firefighters, lending a profound personal touch to this grand memorial.
Well the cemetery was almost empty. There was an old man who approached us from hiding behind one of those graves. Yeah you heard me right. He literally appeared from hiding and offered to sell a Che Guevara 3 CUP coin for 3 CUC, which basically gives him 24 higher value than that coin. Well, I took one as a souvenir.
Christ of Havana and La Cabaña castle
Then we drove to see the Christ of Havana and La Cabaña castle. We didn’t pay for parking anymore. Walked around the Christ and in the castle (6 CUC). Everything was closed in the castle at 3pm. Felt a bit of waste of money apart that we have took some pictures, otherwise not much to see.
On our way back we stopped at Cafe Laurent. Hardly visible from the street. A waitress took us by lift upstairs, where they had amazing terrace with amazing view. The prices weren’t too bad either, comparing with Cienfuegos and Trinidad. I’ve got a fancy grilled mixed sea food and shrimp cocktail as starter, couple of beers and a shot of Rum. Ended up paying 50CUC for it.
Being tipsy, I was up for a drive in a passenger seat with one of those old cars at El Malecon. I’ve asked how much is it. A guy said 45CUC and hour, but he will do a discount for 40. I said we want 30min and he replied 20 then. I’ve bargained down to 15CUC. A drive on El Malecon was really thrilling and really worth it. The sun was setting down and we were enjoying nice golden colours and the breeze from the sea.
After some cocktails at home we were waking by the seafront road. People were fishing. Some of them were using inflated condoms as float buoys. I thought it was difficult to get condoms here and even brought some to donate. It looked somewhat like in the picture below.
The girls went for Salsa evening and we went to eat. After eating pork with onions (they do know how to prepare pork here) and another Cuba Libre I felt like it was time to go to bed as we had an early morning to go to Viňales tomorrow.